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El vino de dos chicos malos y muy viajados

Dos jóvenes enólogos sevillanos consolidan su vino Bad Man en Ronda tras trabajar diez años en bodegas de todos los países clave del mundo del vino

ad Man es la marca de los vinos de Simbad Romero y Manuel Carrizosa, dos enólogos sevillanos de 38 años y 37 años, amigos desde la infancia, que abrieron plaza en Ronda hace cinco cosechas, tras haber dado más vueltas al mundo que Phileas Fogg. En realidad este Bad Man no es el vino de los hombres malos, sino el resultado de cruzar las sílabas de sus nombres, y constituido ya en la bodega número 24 de Ronda. De cruces y de caminos entienden estos bodegueros, que casi imberbes y con sus carreras de enología a cuestas (Simbad también es químico y Manuel, biólogo), decidieron empaparse de la cultura del vino en los países que aúnan tradición y conocimiento. Francia, Italia, Austria, Argentina, Chile, Australia, EEUU, Sudáfrica, Nueva Zelanda y por supuesto algunas de las zonas vinícolas más destacadas de España. Cada uno por su lado metieron las manos en la negroamaro de Plugia, la chardonnay Del Valle de Sonoma, la Pinot Noir borgoñona o en la carmenere chilena. Aprendieron distintos sistemas de vinificación y a enfocar cada vino en función de la climatología. Entendieron la importancia del terroir y tomaron nota de cada proceso que aporta valor al vino. Y, sobre todo, se empaparon de una cultura que en los cincos continentes mantiene constantes vitales y desarrollaron una pasión más profunda de lo que intuían. “Una de las cosas más importantes que te da trabajar en sitios tan importantes y distintos es que te abre la mente para toda la vida. Te enseña a cuestionarlo todo y enfocar las cosas de forma diferente”, explica Simbad Romero, quien tras estudiar Ciencias Químicas en Sevilla descubrió que lo suyo era el vino y se licenció en enología en Córdoba. Una vida paralela a la de Manuel.

En sus periplos internacionales trabajaron en bodegas de primer nivel y les surgieron importantes oportunidades laborales. Pero ambos querían volver a España y asentarse. “Veníamos de jugar en la Champions ligue”, asevera Simbad, “en casas con tradición, marca y éxito en el mercado, con medios para hacer el trabajo y estímulos, pero queríamos volver”. Lo duro fue que al regreso “y pese a nuestro bagaje y experiencia profesional nos encontramos con que lo que nos ofrecían eran trabajos en precario, las más de la veces sin contrato y con 500 euros de sueldo al mes”. Como cada enólogo, en realidad, lo que sueña es con hacer su propio vino y vistas las circunstancias decidieron emprender su propio camino. “Fue un shock, pero al final fue lo mejor”. Optaron por Ronda por el prestigio y la historia de la zona. Y porque era el lugar que mejor se adaptaba a los vinos que querían hacer.

En 2016 adquirieron 3,5 hectáreas de suelo en tres parcelas distintas, una de ellas de una hectárea de tierra de albariza, en el término de Manilva, a tres kilómetros del Mediterráneo en línea recta. El resto en Ronda, donde también tienen la bodega. Se jugaron sus ahorros y desde la primera cosecha consiguieron autofinanciar la actividad mediante la reinversión de todos los beneficios. Eso sí, con sus cuatro manos hacen el 100% de las tareas de la bodega: desde cargar en los camiones las cestas de la vendimia, la elaboración de las facturas o la comercialización. Y por supuesto, hacen el vino. Cada año venden en tiempo récord su producción, que este año alcanzará ya las 19.000 botellas, de momento solo en España porque las propuestas de exportación que han recibido les obligaban a vender la cosecha completa en el exterior. Como otros empresarios de muchos sectores que deciden regresar e invertir en su tierra no tuvieron apoyo alguno de las instituciones. Las posibles subvenciones no les cubrían porque estaban pensadas para bodegas con producciones mayores y, desde la administración, solo obtuvieron retrasos y atascos burocráticos que retrasaban la venta de la cosecha y por lo tanto la posibilidad de hacer caja para seguir trabajando. Las cosas, dicen, van bien, aunque ahora con el covid el canal hostelería se ha parado de golpe y han tenido que pedir hasta tres pequeños créditos para seguir trabajando.“En realidad este no es un proyecto profundamente meditado. Decidimos empezar con la ilusión de hacer vino con unas miles de botellas y pensamos que si nos se vendían pues nos las beberíamos. Pero la cosa empezó a funcionar, el vino se vendía, se generaban expectativas con nuestro trabajo y hemos seguido creciendo y elaborando nuevos vinos”, asegura Manuel Carrizosa, quien sostiene que han ido aprendiendo “a base de palos y de prueba-error, porque vinificar es solo una parte de nuestros problemas”.

Están sacando al mercado seis vinos. Un blanco seco de moscatel de Alejandría de cepas de 70 años que vendimian antes de tiempo para mantener la acidez natural de la uva, y que ha sido premiado dos veces con la gran medalla de oro en los International Awards Virtus, donde competía con vinos de 40 países en la misma categoría. “Es una magnífica noticia para la bodega y para Ronda, porque es un vino que expresa perfectamente el terruño, las cualidades de la zona”, explican sus artífices. Un tinto syrah/cabernet con diez meses de roble (el único vino de la bodega que no es monovarietal) y un tempranillo que hace su crianza en unos huevos de polímero con los que trabajaron en otros países y donde el vino se somete a la misma microoxigenación y crianza que en las barricas nuevas pero sin adquirir los tostados de la madera. Hacen desde el primer año un blanco con chardonnay “muy borgoñón” dice Simbad, que pasa seis meses sobre lías en depósito y un rosado con Merlot 100% con poco color y mucho aroma. La estrella de la casa sale en breve: un petit verdot 100% de 2016, el primer vino de alta gama de Bad Man Wines.

“Los vinos que estamos haciendo se parecen ya mucho a los que queríamos hacer. Todos se han mantenido desde el primer año, con pequeñas modificaciones. Lo importante es dejar que se exprese el campo, la uva. No queremos hacer un vino con una firma que todo el mundo indentifique, sino que se identifique la procedencia, lo que da la tierra”, explica Manuel Carrizosa, quien apuesta porque la denominación de origen sea más flexible con algunas restricciones “que coartan muchas veces el trabajo en bodega, teniendo en cuenta que los productores siempre vamos por delante en innovación”. Ambos celebran el momento interesante que viven los vinos de mesa andaluces, con magníficos y celebrados ejemplos en lugares como Almería, la sierra Norte de Sevilla, Ronda, Montilla o en el mismo marco de Jerez, donde surgen nombres como el de Willy Pérez.

De los diez años que estuvieron danzando por el mundo, además del impagable aprendizaje los dos se quedan con el crecimiento personal, las emociones, la gente y las experiencias. Simbad, que toca la guitarra flamenca desde que tiene uso de razón, estuvo tres años en Nueva Zelanda, donde coincidió con otro andaluz, el periodista gaditano José Yélamo. Además de trabajar en una bodega, ambos hicieron sus pinitos cantando en bares y celebraciones. “Allí me pasó una de las cosas más extrañas de mi vida: conocí el periodista Ian Sinclair, una estrella de la televisión neozelandesa, quien llevaba años yendo a la Alameda de Hércules en Sevilla para aprender a tocar la guitarra flamenco con Antonio del Gastor. ¿No es grande la cosa?”, se pregunta Simbad. El enólogo monta además un espectáculo –Tocata– que fusiona la cata de vino y el flamenco, interpretando distintas piezas con cada vino. Y Manuel se pega su pataíta por bulerías para los visitantes mientras les cocina una fideuá o unas carrileras. Simbad ya llevaba lo de los viajes en la partida de nacimiento. “Mi madre me puso Simbad porque se estaba leyendo las 1.000 y una noches cuando estaba embarazada. Aquella época en la que viajé tanto me decía que parara y yo le respondía, pues no haberme puesto Simbad”.
Más que chicos malos, estos son chicos muy apañados.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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