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El misterio de las dos aceitunas en el templo de la manzanilla

Una taberna de Cádiz, parte de la memoria de la ciudad, mantiene intactos sus rituales generación tras generación por el amor al vino de Sanlúcar

xisten tres lugares que enseñan más sobre las ciudades que la biblioteca municipal: el mercado de abastos, el cementerio histórico y sus tabernas. Si tiene la bendita suerte de viajar a Cádiz comprobará que el mercado mantiene su viejo pulso marinero con el pescado de roca y entenderá a través de su gentes y su jerga cómo se vive en este rincón del sur. Si siguiera abierto el cementerio de San José podría visitar la capilla de Torcuato Cayón o el monumento a los caídos en Cuba y Filipinas. Pero sí puede y debe visitar la Taberna la Manzanilla, en la calle Feduchy 19, en el corazón histórico de la ciudad. Un local que es parte del engranaje gaditano, de la historia de sus días, lugar renovado para la reunión de varias generaciones familiares; y a la vez, templo del buen beber y el saber estar. Se admite el cante, pero no den el cante.

Su geografía tabernera es sencilla. Pequeña barra de madera noble, barnizada y en perfecto estado de revista, como el bauprés de Elcano, escoltada por vitrinas con botellas centenarias e incunables de jereces. Una andana separa barra y salón, con siete botas viejas viejísimas, con más de 200 años, con manzanilla fina, manzanilla olorosa, manzanilla madura, amontillado fino, amontillado viejo y moscatel atalaya. Salón recoleto de madera con las mesas y los taburetes que usted espera encontrar en una taberna. Impoluto mobiliario que se remata con carteles de corridas de toros para el recuerdo. El salón funciona en ocasiones como pequeño tablao improvisado para el flamenco, las coplas
de carnaval o las tertulias taurinas, literarias y gastronómicas. En la pared de fondo del salón, pequeño almacén del ancho de una persona, con más incunables en botella, rarezas descatalogadas, tapones, catavinos jurásicos serigrafiados con las fiestas típicas gaditanas de 1964, alguna bota que enseña la flor y útiles para el trasiego de vino: una especie de camarote de los hermanos Marx a la gaditana que huele a la humedad de la ciudad más antigua de occidente y que parecería conectar a través de secretos recovecos subterráneos con la playa de la Caleta. Hasta aquí llega la bajamar y, al fondo, América. En el patio del mismo edificio, el propietario tiene otras 17 botas donde cría el vino.

Y el propietario es Pepe García Romero, de 50 años, quien relevó a su padre, Don Miguel García Gómez, en 1992, que se jubiló exhibiendo una hoja de servicios impecable: centinela de la pureza y la calidad del vino de Sanlúcar de Barrameda, discreto, educado hasta la extenuación, algo flemático, de voz queda. Y elegante como un gentleman de la desembocadura del Guadalquivir. Vestía inmaculada chaquetilla blanca y tenía la memoria de los apellidos de Cádiz. Sabía latín. Una taberna es una universidad que te titula en mundología. Y don Miguel era catedrático. Su hijo ha heredado el amor por el vino y los demás saberes paternos. Y sobre todo, administra con fidelidad y éxito el prestigio consolidado por la casa desde que en 1942 José García Harana, abuelo del actual tabernero, adquirió el despacho de vinos que solo diez años antes había abierto Bodegas Barón en el mismo lugar. Tercera generación en el castillo de proa de la nave y con las luces largas puestas. El local había acogido desde finales del XIX otro despacho de vinos que expedía el vino que se embarcaba con destino a La Habana, Veracruz o San Juan de Puerto Rico.

Pepe, como su padre, mantiene a raya cualquier fuente de calor que altere o «ponga basto» el vino. Don Miguel solo servía dos aceitunas rellenas con cada caña de manzanilla – en Sanlúcar, a la caña un poco más fina y alta le llaman gorrión-, que aquí no se usan catavinos. Dos aceitunas. Solo dos. Nadie conoce un desliz a favor de una tercera oliva. ¿Por qué dos? Nadie lo sabe con certeza, pero ya es leyenda. La historia se remonta tiempo atrás, cuando dos clientes que
vendían aceitunas le sugirieron que las sirviera en la taberna. Inicialmente, con hueso. Don Miguel, pulcro, no quería huesos en el suelo. Así optó por las rellenas de anchoas. Y hasta hoy. Las dos aceitunas de don Miguel son la medida exacta de las cosas, el punto riguroso del equilibrio de este microuniverso. Era tan exacto en esto como Kant, quien tenía tan acreditada su puntualidad que los habitantes de Konigsberg ponían en hora sus relojes cuando el filósofo cruzaba por sus lugares habituales. Ahora Pepe
ha incorporado un pequeño picoteo. Algún queso de la sierra de Cádiz, unos berberechos, almendras y anchoas. Lo hizo hace seis años . Por primera vez en la historia de la taberna se servía algo de picar. Para ello ha instalado una pequeña nevera en un local anexo, evitando que el calor de la nevera altere lo más mínimo la estabilidad de los vinos. Pero poco más. «La gente no iba a los bares a comer, sino a beber, y aquí se viene por la manzanilla, aunque como tenemos clientes tempraneros les facilitamos un mínimo acompañamiento para el primer oloroso del día«, explica.

La taberna La manzanilla se dedica al vino, el resto de distracciones son actores muy secundarios. Nadie en su sano juicio arriba a este templo pensando en otra cosa que no sea en beberse Sanlúcar. Desde su fundación solo habían entrado vino de dos bodegas. De Barón y Pedro Romero. El actual propietario ha decido ir ampliando el círculo y selecciona los vinos que más le convencen de cada casa sanluqueña: Delgado Zuleta, Barbadillo, Hidalgo, Sánchez Ayala, Argüeso, etc.
Una amplia representación de lo mejor de la desembocadura del río grande de Andalucía. Todo está medido y ensayado. Los ritos han construido un establecimiento que con los años gana en solera sin envejecer. Es poroso, como la piedra ostionera del arco de medio punto que divide en dos el local, a los tiempos pero no al tiempo. Esa flexibilidad le permite adaptarse y la adaptación siempre es el pasaporte a la eternidad. Durante el confinamiento Pepe ha despachado cajas de vino para clientes de toda España y a muchos de otros países que son residentes habituales de La manzanilla. Son esos clientes que echando de menos el ritual de la caña acodados en la barra lustrosa, tiraron de Seur. Un dulce lenitivo.

La taberna La manzanilla es, queda dicho, una pieza en la rueda que hace girar la ciudad, porque explica a buena parte de sus gentes, conserva su memoria, albacea de sus horas felices y de sus horas sombrías. Porque es un ejemplo de exigencia y disciplina, de seriedad y de amabilidad, de fidelidad a sus vinos y a sus clientes. Todos los negocios deberían ser así, exactos con un engranaje alimentado por dos aceitunas. A veces un universo tan limitado es la medida de casi
todas las cosas. El establecimiento vive una tiempo raro, como toda la hostelería, pero dentro de unos años magníficos: «Cádiz se ha puesto de moda, y el vino de Jerez ha recuperado consumo y prestigio. No podemos quejarnos «.

Abuelo, padre y nieto. La manzanilla a 17 grados. Dos aceitunas por caña. El mismo local de siempre. Cada 100 litros consumidos, se rocía la bota. Siempre y solo Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Kant en la calle Feduchy.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

155 Comentarios

  1. Ale Suárez el agosto 31, 2020 a las 7:51 am

    Qué maravilla! No sabía de su existencia, queda anotado para la próxima visita.

  2. Jesús Oliden el septiembre 1, 2020 a las 4:59 pm

    Magnífico Antonio, me ha encantado!!

  3. Carlos el octubre 25, 2020 a las 7:35 pm

    Muy lindo articulo – y gracias a Pepe por dejarnos conocer todas las tradiciones aun entrado el siglo XXI! Un amontillado viejo por favor…

  4. Marisa Becerra Rey el octubre 25, 2020 a las 8:43 pm

    Yo soy de Argentina y estuve en la taberna el año 2017, me llevaron a conocerla mis primo, María Jesús Becerra y Martín Viva Ruiz. Lo mas rico que probé en España. Y su historia agravante. E vuelto a viajar a España con esta nota. Gracias.

  5. Luis Baltar el marzo 24, 2022 a las 6:57 am

    Me encanto Antonio, muy entrañable lugar de Cadiz y con muchos recuerdos.

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