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El chileno que llegó a España siguiendo el rastro de Paco de Lucía y se topó con el tournedó y el ajo blanco

Javier Cabrera, ofrece en Arrayán, en Madrid, una interpretación de la cocina mediterránea avalada por la Guía Michelin

sta es la breve historia de un joven chileno que llegó a España siguiendo el rastro de Paco de Lucía. Que dio más vueltas que una noria por toda la geografía española. Que devino taurino hiperventilado. Que toca la guitarra flamenca y que cocina de lujo. No triunfa en los escenarios pero sí en Arrayán, un restaurante discreto que te sumerge en una atmósfera elegante pero sin la incomodidad que puede generar lo exclusivo. En la calle Villalar, en la trasera de la alargada sombra de la Puerta de Alcalá, en una calle recogida y como encapsulado del ruido del tráfico de las arterias principales de Madrid, encontrará la puerta roja que abre el paso al pequeño restaurante. Tiene un no sé qué esa casa: quizás una levísima inclinación a club inglés, con su medido silencio y la media luz que tamiza la conversación. Como en el Boodle’s o en los clubes más señeros de Londres, también hay arte en las paredes: el hiperrrealismo del uruguayo pero también chileno de adopción Pablo Santibáñez. El restaurante siempre tiene banda sonora: jazz, flamenco, blues, bossa nova. Músicas del alma. Serigrafiada en las cristaleras que dan acceso a un patio recoleto de la finca hay poesía: Borges , Gabriela Mistral y Henry Miller.

Se llama Javier Cabrera y nació en Santiago de Chile hace 38 años. A los doce años, el personaje estudiaba guitarra en el conservatorio y a los dieciséis ya iba instrumento en mano tocando por donde podía, como un Jimmy Hendrix santiaguino. Detestaba a los clásicos -«eran todos muy envarados, con esa cosa de Andrés Segovia o Narciso Yepes«- y por su carácter rebelde no encajaba bien en los cánones establecidos. Así que la madre, doña Teresa, Poblete con innegable pragmatismo y sagaz olfato materno debió intuir que aquello del guitarreo no iba a acabar bien. Le sugirió que estudiara cocina. Su único contacto con los fogones se limitaba a preparar la cena de navidad cuando lo dejaban. Accedió sin convicción. Por aquel tiempo ya había desenfundado el primer disco de Paco de Lucía y había empezado a aprender a tocar flamenco por su cuenta. Entre varios países que le ofrecía la escuela para las prácticas eligió España. Pero duró dos meses escasos en el restaurante asignado. Puso rumbo al sur, a Algeciras, atraído por el magnetismo de Paco de Lucía y el triángulo con Camarón entre La La Línea y San Fernando. Trabajó en ventas de campo, «donde aprendí mucho», en restaurantes de todo tipo, con la obsesión de la guitarra flamenca en la cabeza. Cocinar no era su objetivo, era un sustento para seguir pegado a la tierra del mito. Hasta que un día fue a desayunar churros al mercado de abastos de Algeciras. «Llevaba mi guitarra bajo el brazo y el churrero me la pidió. Ese tío se puso a tocar allí mismo y se me cayeron dos lágrimas. Entendí que nunca iba a ser grande tocando, que en el sur cualquiera coge una guitarra y te pega una paliza y sin darse importancia«. Aquel topetazo con la realidad cambió su orientación y decidió aprender para ser cocinero. «Me di cuenta que estaba pintando la mona».

Regresó a Chile como chef ejecutivo del Coco loco. Tenía 22 años. Duró seis meses y de vuelta a España. Inició un largo peregrinaje por la Hacienda de Benazuza de Ferrán Adriá, en Sanlúcar la Mayor (Sevilla), bajo la batuta de Rafa Morales. «Allí aprendí a quitarme de la cabeza la concepción antigua del primero, segundo y postre; además de nuevas técnicas y la obsesión por hacer una cocina ligera». Pasó por La sucursal (una estrella) en Valencia y después una larga peregrinación por media España hasta que 2015 monta De Cabrera en Chinchón. Un año después abre Arrayán en Madrid.

Y en Arrayán, restaurante recomendado en la Guía Michelin además de figurar en el puesto 44 del top100 de España de El tenedor, también hay una carta que, a su manera, tiene música y letra. Un menú mediterráneo «de Algeciras a Estambul», y que es un destilado de influencias muy bien resuelto. Está presente la cocina francesa, en la que se formó el cocinero cuando tenía 18 años en la escuela Culinary De Santiago. Una Francia muy medida: una de las obsesiones del chef es aligerar las recetas, quitarle grasa a la tradición, el mismo camino que emprendieron en su día Bocuse o Gerard partiendo del recetario de Escoffier. De esos polvos, el pollo a la Villeroy «una receta injustamente denostada», una versión del Tournedó Rossini y el Foie gras «a medio cocer», sopa de peras, crema fresca y éclaires de queso Brie. De la antigua gastronomía levantina, como la de Líbano, se recrea en una suerte de baba ganush en su Mutabal (crema libanesa de berenjenas a la brasa), tomates de mercado y burrata o, de inspiración tunecina, el Cuscús dulce.

Introduce en el menú guiños muy españoles (o al menos españolizados una vez que la bellota se impuso) como la croqueta de jamón, que es sublime; el Revuelto de morcillas de la tierra de Don Pelayo con tortos de maíz, las albóndigas tradicionales en tomate y la torrija. Hay presencia del recetario global siempre a su libre albedrío pero con sentido y empastando correctamente (Ensaladilla rusa, judías verdes, aderezo de pimientos secos y semillas de cilantro ahumados, pato y chalotas). Uno de los platos que le acompaña desde 2016, cuando abrió el establecimiento, es de profunda raíz andaluza: una interpretación monumental del ajo blanco (Ajo blanco malagueño, sorbete de vino tinto, sardinas ahumadas, uvas y hojitas de pimpinela) y , en general, trabaja con mucha delicadeza el pescado, «procurando potenciarlo pero sin que pierda el sabor: es complejo, porque si te quedas corto no vale y te pasas, la fastidias», asevera.

Javier Cabrera remata su trabajo, entre otros postres, con una tarta transparente de manzana con chantillí que es un desafío a lo posible: pura esencia y equilibrio entre el hojaldre ligeramente tostado y la fruta. Una filigrana de nivel.

«Trabajo obsesionado por encontrar mi propio lenguaje, que es lo que te salva de la mediocridad. Si ves una película de Almódovar o de Woody Allen te gustará más o menos pero sabes que es de ellos», explica Cabrera, quien asegura que aún tiene «muchas ideas que plasmar hasta dar en todos los clavos, hasta hallar el círculo virtuoso, que es lo que te permite hacer lo que quieres».

Hasta que el covid lo impidió, celebraba en su restaurante unas cenas muy flamencas una vez por semana, con una cantaora y un guitarrista sentados a la mesa con quince invitados como máximo, entremetiendo sus cantes entre plato y plato. Y ahí sigue, evolucionando sus recetas y añorando las tardes de toros: hasta hace cinco años no había tenido contacto con ese mundo: «Ahora tengo una picá enorme. Es una forma de arte sublime: componer una pieza contando con la voluntad de una bestia es muy grande». Tanta es la afición que convenció al pintor de la casa para que retratara a Rafael de Paula vestido de luces en un paseíllo de tarde de gloria. En el pequeño reservado del local guarda la guitarra y un cajón flamenco. Pero ya se arranca de tarde en tarde. Quedó atrás el tiempo en el que pensaba emular a Paco de Lucía, aquel sueño de juventud que duró justo lo que tardó un churrero en ponerlo en su sitio.


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