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Recetas que te facilitan la vida…o te la complican

Ottolenghi sugiere en Simple platos para aficionados con ínfulas, perezosos, ejecutivos megaocupados y para gente pero que muy organizada 

ocinar puede ser el más placentero de los actos o una refinada tortura. Es parecido a correr por el parque cuando aún no ha amanecido y el termómetro marca temperaturas obscenas. «Hay gente pa to», dijo el torero. Yotam Ottolenghi, cocinero israelí con varios negocios de restauración en Londres y autor de libros tan elogiados como Jerusalén (corran a por él si quieren saber de qué hablamos cuando hablamos de comer mediterráneamente ) o Plenty, se ha sacado un método de la manga de la chaquetilla de cocinero. Un sistema que pretende convertir el hecho de cocinar en algo accesible y cómodo, pero también con un punto de sofisticación y un mucho de previsión. Pero sobre todo, que sea un acto que te solucione la vida entendiendo que cada día tiene su afán y cada uno es cada uno.

El libro se titula Simple, y lo ha editado Salamandra en su colección Food & fun. Y apuesta por desarrollar, con todas sus consecuencias, el concepto de simplicidad. Siempre será mucho más recomendable ingerir lo que uno cocina en casa, con independencia de la profundidad culinaria de cada quien, que recurrir a alimentos procesados o refugiarse en cualquier producto industrial de mala calidad. Ojo, de mala calidad. Porque hay productos, denominados industriales, de quinta gama -los encuentra en los lineales de los supermercados preparados para ser rematados en casa – que sorprenderían a muchos expertos en el arte de llenar el buche. La simplicidad para Ottolenghi se resume en la sorpresa de algún lector: «Al comprobar que tenía todos los ingredientes necesarios en la despensa di por sentado que la receta estaba incompleta». Simple es una renuncia explícita a martirizar a los cocineros aficionados, amas de casa y cocinillas en general buscando ingredientes imposibles por comercios y páginas webs aterrados al intuir que sin esos cinco decilitros de leche de alce el plato concebido milimétricamente por el cocinero se hundirá sin remedio.

Con la colaboración de Tara Wigley, periodista y escritora gastronómica que colabora habitualmente en sus libros; y de Esme Howarth, quien se encargó de elaborar todos los platos que se proponen, el autor organiza el ataque a los fogones con un código alfacromático que permite distinguir a simple vista en qué apartado encaja cada una de las 140 recetas. Es un libro que ayuda a organizarte mejor la vida en relación con esa necesidad biológica de alimentarse tres veces al día e incluso convertir en un placer esos tres actos rutinarios.

El primer bloque, bajo el título «Sofisticado pero fácil» propone atacar la cocina desdeñando las dificultades insalvables que podemos pensar que nos separan de hacer pan, helados o de ensayar con platos bautizados con acento francés – confit, velouté, clafoutis– «y que parece que solo deberías atreverte a preparar si has pasado por una escuela de cocina», dice Ottolenghi. En este apartado propone platos como las patatitas asadas con harissa y ajo confitado o el pollo con miso, gengibre y lima.

Una buena opción para ponerse manos a la obra sin tener que salir al mercado es el apartado de «Imprescindibles en la despensa», que agrupa el fondo de armario más común en la mayoría de hogares, con un básico de 18 ingredientes que van desde el aceite de oliva, a la harina de trigo, las legumbres o un yogur tipo griego. «Lo que guardamos en la despensa suele depender de lo que lo que nos gusta comer». Fácil. Por ejemplo, fetuccine con salsa de tomates cherry y pimientos choriceros.

En «Menos es más» se autodisciplina el chef para poner un límite de diez ingredientes a cada receta. «Lo más emocionante ha sido constatar que podía elaborar muchas recetas con pocos ingredientes sin tener la sensación de que faltaba algo». Estas sugerencias son una deconstrucción del barroquismo de muchas recetas, algunas del propio Ottolenghi, hoy reconvertido en este libro en apóstol de la simplicidad. En todo caso, se lee más como una evolución que como una involución. Al fin y al cabo, Mies Van der Rohe ya lo hizo con la arquitectura demostrando que la sencillez y la pureza formal pueden ser técnicamente más complejas y estilosas que el recargamiento excesivo. De este minimalismo gastronómico surgen propuestas como la ensalada de trigo sarraceno y judías verdes o unos calamares estofados con pimiento rojo.

«Pereza», titulan el siguiente apartado, como si de un pecado capital se tratara. En este área se fía todo «a la alianza del calor y el tiempo» para que un cocinero perezoso pueda pasarse la mañana del sábado leyendo o jugando al críquet, que de todo hay en la viña del señor, mientras el asado de ternera se va retorciendo lentamente en el horno. El instrumento determinante para acometer estas recetas es una olla o una bandeja de hornear. Se incluyen postres que no necesitan ser horneados. Y proponen, entre otras, arroz al horno con tomates y ajos confitados o albóndigas de ternera con limón y apionabo.

Con una ele mayúscula y verde de conductor novato se titula el siguiente apartado. «Listo con antelación». Se explica por sí mismo. Propuestas para adelantar las elaboraciones culinarias. Permite tenerlo casi todo hecho cuando vienen invitados a casa y evitan que te conviertas en el esclavo del día o te facilita, simplemente, tener el congelador lleno de tápers con elaboraciones que solo hay que sacar y calentar. Se inspira, además en un principio de ahorro de energía: preparar el doble de salsa para la pasta o el estofado requiere el mismo esfuerzo que hacer la mitad. «Puedes congelar la mitad y así tener una comida lista para servirla en cualquier momento, lo que de paso te hará sentir ser el hombre más listo y afortunado que haya pisado la faz de la tierra», sostiene el autor. Entre otras muchas, se propone la remolacha asada con yogur y limón en conserva o el bacalao con salsa de picante y tahina. Este parece un apartado para gente muy organizadita y previsora.

El último bloque es una declaración de intenciones: «Exprés» se titula. Solo necesitas 30 minutos para llevar los platos a la mesa. La pasta o el pescado «como valores seguros» dado el poco tiempo de cocinado que requieren, platos de verdura crudas o mini hamburguesas de cordero o escalopes de pollo. Tienen estos platos el aire de lo que se cena entre semana. Ensalada de huevo y coliflor al curry, ensalada de langostinos, maíz y tomate; chips de boniato o puré de patata con aceite de oliva aromatizado.

Es un libro, sobre todo, práctico. Fácil de manejar y con capas de dificultad, lo que permite complicarse un poco el trabajo en función de las ganas y el tiempo disponible. Ottoleghi es hoy uno de los divulgadores gastronómicos más recomendables. Y este libro también lo es.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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