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Seiscientos años intercambiando congrios secos por cabos para barcos

Los dos últimos secaderos de congrio de Europa están en Muxía. Dos familias emplean técnicas ancestrales y pelean por mantener la tradición. El 80% del producto se vende en Calatayud

sta es la breve historia del congrio y su destino final ensartado en cañas de bambú, agujereado y tremolando como una bandera al viento en la Costa da Morte, ese lugar hecho de viento y mar bravío donde los navíos naufragaban frente al Cabo O Punta do Boi. Es el congrio un pez que alcanza hasta los tres metros de longitud, temido por los pescadores y submarinistas por su mordedura peligrosa. Tiene un diente que corta como una cizalla, diseñado para reventar la resistencia de los cructáceos. Una suerte de serpiente marina (conger conger) que costea y vive en profundidades de hasta cuarenta metros. Un pez, también llamado safio, blanco semigraso, hermafrodita e hiperactivo: pone hasta ocho millones de huevos durante su existencia. No demasiado apreciado en la cocina pero que enamora a quienes lo trabajan por la potencia de su sabor para sopas, guisos, caldos y fondos. Una criatura que puede pesar hasta 30 kilos y que era el cotizado regalo que Poseidón llevaba a Zeus cuando iba de fin de semana al Monte Olimpo.

Un animal primitivo que desde el siglo XV fue la moneda de cambio de los pescadores gallegos para comprar cuerdas y cabos de cáñamo a los sogueros de Calatayud (Zaragoza). El legendario congrio como objeto de trueque. Para evitar que el pescado se estropeara en el largo camino de regreso a Aragón, casi 800 kilómetros, los pescadores gallegos empezaron a secar el congrio. El secado es una técnica ancestral que permitía garantizar el consumo del pescado a largo plazo. Fue un negocio floreciente desde 1.446, según los primeros asientos históricos del Ayuntamiento de Calatayud, aunque algunos investigadores, como Eduardo Gómez de Agüero, sitúan sus comienzos en el siglo XII. No hay que olvidar que el catolicismo imponía hasta 140 días de abstinencia al año y una cuaresma sin carne de ningún tipo. El congrio seco igual que el bacalao, la mojama de atún o los arenques en sal aliviaban esos largos periodos de oscuridades. Pero llegó el tren. Hacia el último cuarto del siglo XIX. Y el tren mandó a la diligencia al museo. El viaje se acortó y la industria del congrio seco empezó a languidecer. Hasta mitad del siglo pasado los secaderos se concentraban en Arousa.

Hoy solo quedan dos. Son los últimos secaderos de congrio de Europa y están en Muxía, en el último lugar conocido de la tierra, como le gustaba decir a sus habitantes. Finis terrae.

Juan Diz, de 91 años, y su nieto Miguel, que aún no cumple los cuarenta, se encargan del único que aún funciona de forma completamente artesanal. Javier Lema, de 33, con su mujer, Carla Castro, gestionan el otro, lemar-elaboraciones.com, que mantiene los métodos artesanales durante buena parte del proceso pero también utilizan otros sistemas eléctricos de secado. Liz hace unos 4.000 kilos de congrio seco al año. Lemar, más de 10.000 kilos. Siglos después esta sigue siendo una historia de gallegos y aragoneses, de muxianos y bilbilitanos: el 80% de la producción total se vende en Calatayud, hoy como hace seiscientos años.

La imagen de los secaderos frente al mar es desoladora. Los tenderetes de madera con los congrios ensartados en cañas son un desgarro estético. Guarda ese perímetro de estacas con los congrios secándose al viento un aire escandinavo severo. Las piezas de Lemar proceden de las lonjas de Fisterra y Malpica. Los Diz llevan años comprándoles el congrio a un exportador francés. Trabajan con ejemplares desde cuatro hasta veinte kilos. La experiencia, el conocimiento y la técnica son imprescindibles para convertir el congrio en materia de secado. El primer paso es eviscerarlos y hacerles unos cortes en la cabeza. Se lavan en piletas con agua del mar hasta que desaparezca la sangre. “Antes se limpiaban en la orilla del mar. Se amarraban a una cuerda para que las olas blanquearan la carne. De allí, las mujeres lo llevaban a una caseta para trabajarlo”, recuerda Juan Diz, que encara ya la década que le lleva al siglo de vida, y quien empezó a trabajar en un secadero de congrios cuando tenía trece años junto a su tío. “Eran tiempos de hambre. Trabajaba desde las siete de la mañana hasta las doce de la noche y cuando cumplí los dieciséis empecé a cobrar diez céntimos diarios”, recuerda. Cuando empezó a hilvanar congrios en las cañas en el secadero del tío se manejaban hasta 25.000 kilos de congrio en cada mes seco del año.

El resto del proceso es idéntico a como se viene haciendo hace siglos. Con una poda -un cuchillo de punta curvada que funciona como un garfio- se abre la espina dorsal por los dos lados. Y mediante un singular ritual de cortes en cadeneta se agujerea el congrio hasta que queda con el aspecto de una red poco tupida de ventanas trapezoidales. “Es la técnica que usamos hace siglos para que el pescado se seque bien, para que el viento pueda hacer su trabajo”, explica Javier Lema. Este procedimiento se llama lañar. Una vez convertido el congrio en una especie de grimpolón, se le introduce una caña de bambú en zigzag y se tensa con hilos para que quede lo más estirado posible. Se colocan sobre las estacas -las cabrias-, se amarran y se reza para que no llueva. El viento del norte -el nordés- es el mejor aliado; la lluvia, el enemigo. Las piezas grandes requieren al menos diez días de secado y las grandes, el doble. El producto final retiene como máximo un 10% de agua y, en total, ha mermado más del 60% respecto al peso del congrio cuando fue capturado. Así se hacía ya hace siglos, cuando los aragoneses entregaban sogas para hacer cabos para los barcos a cambio de pescado seco. Y en los años cuarenta del siglo pasado, cuando las mujeres de Muxía cargaban con 40 kilos de congrio en la cabeza durante kilómetros y regresaban de las aldeas con patatas, maíz y huevos. Que hoy dos familias sigan sacando adelante dos modestos secaderos es patrimonio de la antropología. No se entiende si no se trata de comprender el alma gallega. Las dos familias saben qué es trabajar de sol a sol. Tanto Diz como Lema estuvieron en la mar. Hoy están a resguardo pero viviendo de la mar. Como escribió amargamente Manuel Rivas en su Balada maldita en las playas del oeste cuando el crudo negro del Prestige desangró aquellas costas, “el mar tiene siempre alma de blues, pero hoy, temporal, recuerda la voz rota y desgarradora de Edith Piaf. Rien, rien de rien”. Como dice Lemar, “la gente no sabe lo que dice cuando habla del precio del pescado”.

Los secaderos son merecedores de ser protegidos como bienes etnográficos. No parece que vayan a durar mucho. La producción decae y prácticamente no dan para vivir. Javier Lemar lo mantiene “porque no quiero que se pierda algo único, es casi un empeño personal al que le dedicamos muchas horas; mis padres también lo hicieron durante muchos años para mantenerlos”, y los Diz tampoco son demasiado optimistas. “Esto tiene poco futuro, le quedan cuatro días”, vaticina el abuelo, quien a sus 91 cada mañana pasea hasta el Santuario de la Virgen de la barca.

Lema tiene además dos barcos de pesca, de 25 y 14 metros de eslora, con trece tripulantes, y un gastro-bar en el puerto de Muxía, el A Furna, que es el nombre que dan los gallegos a las cuevas en el mar. Ni en tierra pueden dejar de pensar en el océano. Lema, que por supuesto también es el cocinero, está tratando de introducir el congrio, que una vez secado debe hidratarse antes de consumir, en el gusto de los gallegos. No es el pescado favorito de la tierra. Con mucha diferencia de los bilbilitanos, que lo cocinan con garbanzos, parecido a un guiso de callos, y donde lo consideran un producto gourmet. Pero Lema propone un arroz de congrio seco con almejas o con gambas que tiene muy buena pinta. Algunos cocineros de la vanguardia gastronómica gallega están empezando a darle sitio en sus cartas. En Lemar, además del congrio seco, venden botes de lo que llaman escamas de congrio seco, que no es más que el pescado pulverizado igual que hacen los japoneses con el katsuobushi, que es el bonito seco, fermentado y ahumado que junto al alga kombu son la base del caldo dashi que es, a su vez, el fondo base y la madre de todas las sopas niponas. Lo de las escamas parece una buena idea para intensificar sabores en caldos, arroces o guisos. Un señor bicho, el congrio, “gigante anguila de nevada carne”, lo llamó Pablo Neruda en su Oda al caldillo de congrio. Pero gigantes de verdad, estos gallegos, que asomados al mar de la costa escarpada envaran y tienden cada día sus congrios al viento esperando a que llegue el último soguero de Calatayud.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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    Espectacular artículo Antonio. Cuando menos resulta curiosa la relación entre Muxia y Calatayud nacida del intercambio de la manipulación y transformación de materias primas en artículos con gran valor y tradiciones valiosísimas. Gracias por darnos a conocer este patrimonio etnográfico.

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