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Religión sopera: cura para el cuerpo y gloria para el alma

¿Sabía que a las sopas se le conceden poderes taumatúrgicos, reconstituyentes y curativos? Un libro nos introduce en ese fascinante mundo

on la llegada del frío se ponen al fuego las primeras sopas. Un símbolo del adiós a la canícula. Aquella vida feliz bajo las estrellas del verano da paso a esa otra reconfortante y cálida sensación de la vida en color sepia. El omega 3 y la grasa de la sardina, la caballa y el boquerón son sustituidos por el reconfortante aroma que se escapa de una olla hirviendo verduras, carnes y pescados. Es el chup-chup que reconforta cuando los cielos se tornan plomizos. El cuerpo y el alma se calientan con esos pucheros que contienen lo mejor de cada despensa. Aunque no se trata de física cuántica, las sopas tampoco son exactamente una cosa simple. Requieren cierto conocimiento, técnica y perseverancia para explotar todas sus posibilidades. Planeta Gastro, a través de Sopas, escrito por la Fundación Alicia, nos introduce en ese universo. El otoño ha llegado y la sopa es su heraldo.

A la sopa se le conceden poderes taumatúrgicos que van más allá del hecho culinario: es reconstituyente, previene el resfriado e incluso combate las afecciones pulmonares. Los restaurantes modernos nacen en París en 1770 para ofrecer consomés y caldos a clientes acomodados que necesitaban reponerse de alguna enfermedad. Restaurant de hecho, proviene de restauration, un término que nos lleva a la idea del reconstituyente, según explica en el prólogo el catedrático de Historia de Yale Paul Freedman, especializado en la historia de la cocina medieval y quien ya abundaba en esa tesis en su Historia del paladar.

Las sopas son un compendio de los valores que les confiere cada sociedad. Desde el pho vietnamita, que por ser creada en la época del colonialismo francés tardó más de un siglo en ser aceptada como plato nacional de primer orden; al caldo gallego, puro sustento para un día de duro trabajo en el campo;  pasando por la bullabesa de Marsella, de origen humilde, cocinada con los pescados más feos –congrio, rape–  y que eran difíciles de vender. Pero las sopas son también la tierra. Son el paisaje. Prácticamente cualquier producto de la huerta o la despensa local sirve. Por ejemplo, la sopa de tortilla mexicana, también llamada sopa azteca: frijoles negros, jitomates, ajo, cebolla, chile pasilla y tortilla de maíz. O la minestrone italiana: un festival de verduras. Y además las sopas son un canto a la sostenibilidad, el culto a la cocina de aprovechamiento: el pan duro, los huesos y cualquier verdura a mano.

Un plato reconstituyente y curativo, una baliza antropológica, línea de meta del producto local y una elaboración anti despilfarro. Sin embargo, ¿qué ocurre con las sopas, cuyo consumo desciende vertiginosamente más allá de los rámenes de moda? Algunos expertos consideran que cuando las casas comenzaron a incorporar la calefacción disminuyó la necesidad de quemarse con una cuchara hirviendo. Toni Massanés, director de la Fundación Alicia, cree que “las estadísticas demuestran que somos cada vez más de picar, lo que ahora llaman snacking, y menos de plato hondo”. El descenso del consumo de alimentos procesados también ha hecho caer el consumo de las sopas industriales. Los informes de consumo alimentario en España, del ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación arrojan datos interesantes: el consumo per cápita de caldos en los hogares españoles es de 0,18 litros. Uno de los cambios de hábitos de consumo es que cae la trinidad clásica de primero, segundo y postre: en el 61% de las comidas solo hay plato único. Y otro dato relevante: el 36% de los alimentos se hacen a la plancha, el 34% se consumen en frío y un 30% hervidos o al vapor. El motivo que ofrecen los consumidores es fácil de entender: buscan alternativas que les alivie el día a día. Es la nueva normalidad gastronómica en los hogares españoles, donde solo en el 22% de las ocasiones se cocina por placer y un 20% se elige el plato por su sabor.

Sopas (Planeta gastro), elaborado por la Fundación Alicia, empieza estableciendo algunos parámetros técnicos para definir una sopa – textura y proporciones- y llega a hacer una interesante inmersión cultural desde las primeras vasijas del paleolítico, las sopas árabes especiadas en la Edad Media, la influencia de los ingredientes llegados de América a partir de finales del siglo XV o las sopas industriales convertidas en iconos pop por la gracia de Warhol. Un apartado notable es el dedicado a “la vuelta al mundo de las sopas”, que ofrece recetas de preparados en los cinco continentes.

El libro establece además un decálogo (+1) sobre las sopas. Como los Diez Mandamientos, pueden resumirse en tres (+1): cuidarás la calidad de los ingredientes sobre todas las cosas, no estigmatizarás el uso de la olla exprés, no abusarás de la sal en vano y honrarás en el puchero cuanto ingrediente te guste siempre que aporten aroma, sabor, color o textura. Amén. Y a partir de ahí, puro placer, se ofrece un recetario inmenso, goloso, nutritivo e imaginativo que invita a encender el fuego mientras se lee. Por destacar algunas propuestas, la sopa de setas con crema de Oporto hace salivar; con la sopa de castañas -que incorpora brandy- dan ganas de salir al campo y cimbrear el castaño; hay una propuesta de sopa de habas con picatostes con una potencia nutritiva que debería ser tenida en cuenta por la Nasa para sus misiones espaciales; una de gusto árabe como la sopa de garbanzos marroquí, con comino, canela, hinojo y limón que promete experiencias intensas; las hay clásicas como la de ajo, la minestrone, la de rape o la de carne con patatas; y se abren a explorar las posibilidades del consomé a la printanier (con verduras de primavera), a la chiffonade (espinaca y lechugas en tiras) o a la royal (con huevo cuajado con un crepe), con tapioca o con jerez y brandy, de gusto clásico. No se dejan atrás las sopas frías evolucionadas como el gazpacho de cerezas y mango o las sopas dulces con albaricoque, naranjas o plátanos y la sopa inglesa de de vainilla. Un centenar largo de recetas que servirán por igual a los cocineros profesionales y a los aficionados con ganas de experimentar.

El libro es un regalo para los sentidos, una invitación al fuego lento, un canto a la alquimia placentera de mezclar ingredientes en el puchero que hierve y aromatiza el hogar, “un misal para el proselitismo de la fe sopera”, como escribe Massanés.

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