El tomate de Los Palacios: una industria, una delicia y un icono pop
Desde el siglo XVI, las altas temperaturas favorecen al bombón colorao, un tomate entre los mejores del mundo: carnoso, liso, con mucha concentración de azúcares y con el sabor de toda la vida
n la comarca del Bajo Guadalquivir, en lo que un topógrafo llamaría el cuadrante suroccidental de la provincia de Sevilla, en la linde entre la campiña y la marisma, hay un pueblo de 38.000 habitantes donde hay oro. En Los Palacios y Villafranca, localidad dedicada en muy buena parte a la agricultura, hay una veta de oro rojo en forma de tomate. Y estos días está empezando la cosecha. Bendecido por las eternas y constantes horas de sol durante todo el año, el tomate palaciego goza de fama allende los mares. Un tomate redondo, liso, de piel muy fina, con pocas nervaduras y de tamaño considerable. Con un cierre extraordinario, como un packaging natural. Por fuera es de exposición. Por dentro es carnoso, delicado, con sabor a tomate de toda la vida y con un tamaño considerable, conocido como XXL. Al cortarlo comprobará que es una masa compacta y no una especie de blandiblú que saca la pulpa acuosa por un lado y la parte externa, vacía y hecha un ocho, por otro. El solomillo de los tomates. Lo que lo hace imbatible son las horas de sol, que concentran el azúcar en la fruta, lo que permite recolectar un tomate con una calidad muy especial, rico en azúcares y licopenos, que son los pigmentos que le dan el color rojo a las verduras y frutas además de poseer propiedades antioxidantes.
Tanta es la ayuda del sol, que en Los Palacios se recogen hasta dos cosechas anuales: la primera se siembra en enero y se empieza a levantar a mitad de abril. La segunda se siembra en agosto y se recoge entre septiembre y diciembre. Sí, tomates en diciembre. Y de la mata, sin aceleradores artificiales ni sustancias raras. 100% natural. Sol, agua y unas semillas que llegaron de América de la mano de las expediciones de Cristóbal Colón y que arraigaron en estas tierras sin transición ni necesidad de mayores adaptaciones. El archivero municipal de Los Palacios, Julio Mayo, ha documentado los primeros asientos documentales en el siglo XVI, cuando se enviaban a dispensarios y sanatorios.
Hay tres saltos históricos en la producción del tomate palaciego: en 1932 cuando el Gobierno de la República construye el Palenque municipal a modo de lonja, lo que favorece la organización y comercialización del producto; en los años sesenta, al convertirse el bajo Guadalquivir en zona de regadío, lo que favoreció un producto de calidad y multiplicó las cosechas; y a comienzo de los ochenta con la construcción de los primeros invernaderos (hoy hay 134 hectáreas cubiertas en el pueblo), que permiten fabricar un producto de calidad máxima protegiéndolo de plagas, incrementando la producción y favoreciendo la precocidad: los primeros tomates salen al mundo en abril. “El bombón colorao”, lo llaman en el pueblo y los niños se lo comen gozosos como se comían el melón y las uvas los chavales del cuadro de Murillo.
La cosecha de 2021 va alcanzar en Los Palacios los 15 millones de kilos de tomates, cifra récord, casi dos millones más que en 2019. La evolución ha sido notable: en 2013 se producían solo cinco millones. Estas cifras se corresponden solo con el tomate para fresco o cocinado. Porque en otras zonas de marisma se cosechan cada año cantidades muy superiores de otro tipo de tomate destinado a uso industrial. Los Palacios es uno de los grandes proveedores de tomate para pizzas, zumos, ketchup y demás concentrados. Solo Don Simón compra cada año cinco millones de kilos.
“El año va a ser espectacular porque el invierno ha sido una primavera”, explica José Manuel Pérez Plata, fundador de Tierra Palaciega, la única industria local dedicada a las conservas gourmet de tomate. El gerente de la empresa, de 33 años, es ingeniero químico. Su familia ha cultivado siempre tomates. Su abuelo fue uno de los fundadores de la mayor cooperativa de Los Palacios y su padre era y sigue siendo agricultor, aunque ya jubilado. Tras acabar la carrera decidió dar un paso adelante: “En mi familia siempre hemos tenido espíritu emprendedor. Mi padre me ayudó a desarrollar la idea. Veía que el mercado iba evolucionando y demandando nuevos productos”.
El resultado es un tomate frito en frasco de cristal con un sabor profundo, de un color rojo intenso y una textura que desafía al mejor tomate hecho en casa. ¿El truco? Mirar atrás, volver a las prácticas ancestrales: “Dejamos que el tomate madure al 100% en la mata, como se hacía antes. No lo sacamos hasta que ha terminado su ciclo completo de maduración”. El resultado es un tomate cumbre, en el exacto momento en el que explotan sus virtudes. Al no tratarse de un producto para exportar ni vender en fresco pueden permitirse llevar al límite la maduración. De la mata a la fabrica, en minutos. Cada fritada de tomate se hace artesanalmente con la receta de la abuela de José Manuel, sin aditivos ni conservantes, solo el tomate, cebolla, pimiento, sal y aceite de oliva virgen extra Molino de Quirós, de Montoro (Córdoba). Cada fritada se lleva tres horas y media en la olla a fuego lento y después al envase de cristal, que puede encontrar en los mejores escaparates gourmet. Es todo de cosecha propia. El tomate frito representa casi el 40% de las ventas de la empresa que, además de en España, exporta a países como Francia, México, Reino Unido, Suecia o Singapur. El catálogo se completa con un pisto que pide a gritos que se le cuajen dos huevos fritos encima; y dos mermeladas -de tomate rojo y de tomate verde – que son una delicia tanto para acompañar la tostada como con platos salados. La idea de la mermelada se la dio Amparo Carmona, cuya familia la elabora desde tiempos inmemoriales en la confitería Distinguido. En junio van a sumar un nuevo producto al catálogo: un sofrito a base de tomate Genaro, cebolla, pimiento rojo y verde, ajo y cebolla. El tomate de la variedad Genaro es el auténtico tomate palaciego, el original. Sin embargo se cultiva poco porque es muy blando y aguanta poco en el mercado. La variedad más utilizada es la Panekra , seguida de la Valderrama y la Matías.
El alcalde de Los Palacios, Juan Manuel Valle (IP-IU), proclama que su localidad es “la capital mundial del tomate”. El ayuntamiento preside la asociación de productores del tomate de Los Palacios, que tiene concedida la Marca Colectiva Nacional como paso previo a la Indicación Geográfica Protegida, junto a las tres cooperativas: Las nieves, Parque norte y Frupal. “El tomate es muy importante para nuestra economía, genera miles de empleos, pero es que además hay algo muy relevante y es que se está produciendo el relevo generacional. Cada vez se incorporan más jóvenes, que ya lo consideran una actividad industrial, no un complemento de renta familiar, modernizan los cultivos y además aportan tecnología”. En julio se abrirá la segunda fábrica de gazpacho. El alcalde está especialmente orgulloso de haber conseguido una alianza estratégica con todo el sector hostelero: “Hace años que trabajamos la marca de Los Palacios como destino gastronómico, incluyendo bares, restaurantes y confiterías. Lo que sale del campo llega directamente a nuestras cocinas: kilómetro cero puro y duro”. El bombón colorao puede encontrarlo en los mejores restaurantes de Los Palacios como base principal de un guiso, aliñado o en gazpacho o atreverse con elaboraciones más complejas como la milhojas de salazón y ahumados sobre láminas de tomate o la Sinfonía en cinco texturas, ambos platos del restaurante Manolo Mayo.
En 2013 Los Palacios logró el récord Guiness con la mayor fritá de tomate: seis toneladas de tomate frito durante ocho horas en un perol de 4,5 metros de largo por dos de ancho, con 200 litros de aceite de oliva virgen extra, 400 kilos de cebolla, 400 de pimientos, 50 kilos de ajo, 100 de azúcar y 50 de ajos. Hasta el jugador de fútbol Jesús Navas, palaciego, se sumó a la gesta.
Pero el tomate palaciego, cultivado por los manchoneros, ha generado además una cultura popular que desborda los datos meramente económicos. El mejor ejemplo es uno de los últimos y ya muy populares temas de No me pises que llevo chanclas: El tomate cantante, una defensa cerrada de la cultura local. Pepe Begines, alma máter del grupo que patentó el agro-pop, vindica su mundo más cercano como fuente de inspiración: “Kiko Veneno recuerda siempre que Bob Dylan y Joan Baez hacían canciones que reflejaban las luchas y las preocupaciones de su entorno, de su gente, con compromiso social. Nosotros también: nuestro entorno son los motocultores, los hombres que se van temprano al campo a trabajar y aquellas extrañas plantaciones en montículos, como unas cuevas con techo de paja para la siembra del tomate”. Y añade: “Los grupos de rock le cantan al neón, al asfalto y a los rascacielos. Nosotros, al tomate y a nuestra gente, con denuncia social encriptada en nuestras canciones, porque ahí están los niños sin escolarizar o el reposo del guerrero, que es el jornalero que se toma dos copas de mosto en la taberna después de un día de faena”.
El tomate de Los Palacios. Una delicia en el plato, una fuente económica de primer nivel y un icono cultural. La mata palaciega da mucho de sí.
No me pises que llevo chanclas – El tomate cantante
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Elegante, no digo más…
Bueno si, probaré esa mermelada de tomate con un buen queso.
Gracias Antonio
Como de costumbre, hoy he aprendido algo más sobre el tomate guiado por tu inmenso conocimiento del mundo gastronómico. Enhorabuena.
Magnífico, Antonio!! Ya estoy yo en Los Palacios!!
Voy a buscar los productos del tomate de los Palacios. Tu artículo invita a disfrutar este manjar y con huevos!!
A por ellos Manolo ¡
Dale Eva ¡
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