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El bar de la Macarena se va a Japón

El Yebra, referencia del buen tapear en Sevilla, abre restaurante en Japón. En julio inauguran local en el Tokio Torch Terrace, el que será el rascacielos más alto de la ciudad. El bar de barrio de toda la vida se abre paso en el mundo

n 1951 Florentino Yebra, un mozo de Rábano de Sanabria (Zamora) asentado en Sevilla abría el bar Yebra en la calle Fernández de Guadalupe, esquina a José María Izquierdo. Vendía mucho vino generoso y ofrecía un tapeo canónico, como la carne con tomate, el flamenquín y la ensaladilla. Sus hijos Manolo (55 años) y Javier (49) se hicieron cargo del negocio, que dio un salto hacia el reconocimiento y la innovación en las barras sevillanas al trasladarse a su emplazamiento actual, la calle Medalla Milagrosa, en pleno barrio de la Macarena, donde están hace 21 años.

Manolo manda en la barra, Javier en la cocina. Javier estudió Derecho pero decidió no ejercer y enrolarse en el Yebra con el hermano. Es autodidacta y tiene la vitola de ser el cocinero que introdujo la sofisticación en el tapeo sevillano, que es de recias costumbres y clásicas maneras. Aunque Javier no pierde de vista un menudo imperial, nada pesado; unos fritos perfectos, marisco de calidad, merluza a la vasca o unas habas frascas con jamón. Tampoco olvida los reinventados chanquetitos (que ahora son gambas de cristal de Isla Cristina) con pimientos asados y huevo. U otros clásicos del Yebra que no hay forma de sacar de la carta: los fideos marineros con palo cortao, la corvina con risotto y crema de jalapeño o el cordero a la baja temperatura. Igual que el matrimonio de anchoa y boquerón con testigo o la presa ibérica al Lustau.

Sabiduría clásica que combina con platos más elaborados. Esta temporada le quitan de las manos la cocotte de foie con setas y láminas de cecina y parmentier de coliflor. Aunque ahora empieza el tiempo de las sopas frías, las sardinas marinadas y las anchoas de la casa.

Sin ambages, el Yebra es un templo para estas cosas del bien comer en Sevilla. Es una tasca arregladita y agradable de barrio, un bar sin más ínfulas que la de hacer felices a sus parroquianos, pero por dentro tiene un fuego mítico. Nadie entiende el prodigio que se produce en una cocina tan estrecha y que tiene por norma no fallar. De hecho, la clientela abarrota cada día el local, donde conseguir mesa o hueco en la barra es tarea complicada. Y los dos hermanos son dos profesionales de los que honran al gremio,

Sirvan los prolegómenos por situarnos en la modesta y, a la vez, exitosa trayectoria de la familia Yebra cuando está a punto de embarcarse camino al lejano oriente para abrir restaurante en Tokio. Digamos que en la gastronomía española ya no sorprende que grandes chefs como Eneko Atxa o Carme Ruscadella abran restaurante en Tokio. Pero resulta mas sorprendente, si no inédito, que lo haga un bar de barrio. La culpa es de Miyake Shigeyuki, un empresario japonés, propietario de un importante grupo de restauración japonés Akinai, líder en facturación en el país, con establecimientos de cocina francesa e italiana y entre otros, ocho restaurantes abiertos bajo la marca La Bodega, especializado en tapas españolas clásicas. La paella es la reina. Pero quien fue el detonante del proyecto es otro sevillano, Alfonso Martín, presidente de Union Liquors Japón, quien cada año trae a Miyake de viaje a España. Martín lleva 21 años en el país nipón. Entre otros productos importa vinos como manzanilla La gitana, Ramón Bilbao, Pago del vicario o Conde de Albarei.  Conocedor profundo de los gustos de aquel país decidió llevar a Miyake al Yebra, que además es su bar de toda la vida. Miyake se ancló a su barra el primer día que comió allí y allí sigue teniendo su templo gastronómico de referencia cuando viaja a Sevilla.


Llevaba trece años el empresario japonés tratando de convencer a los hermanos Yebra para abrir establecimiento en Tokio, a lo que Manolo y Javier se negaban. Aquello no les sonaba mucho. “No estábamos para esas aventuras, la verdad” reconoce Manolo. Pero Miyake además de resultar un enamorado de la gastro española y del Yebra en particular, es tozudo. Y hace dos años se plantó en el Yebra con el propietario del edificio donde se instalará el Yebra nipón. Los japoneses son estrictos para estas cosas y quieren conocer el proyecto que se instalará en el local que alquilan. Entre Miyake y el casero japonés le hicieron la envolvente a los hermanos Yebra. El próximo 21 de julio inauguran su “Restaurante-bar Yebra Japón“ . El establecimiento va situado en el que será el rascacielos más alto de Japón, con 212 metros, junto a la parada de tren de Yaesu, con tres millones de pasajeros al día. En el Tokio torch and terrace tendrán un restaurante con 30 plazas en el interior y 60 en terraza.

Javier se ha encargado de la carta. La idea es trasladar allí el “espíritu del Yebra” pero adaptado a los gustos japoneses. “Hay que hacer productos con nuestro sello pero a la vez adaptados a sus gustos. Es una forma muy interesante de enriquecernos mutuamente desde el punto de vista gastronómico”, opina Javier. Por ejemplo, la Panceta ibérica a baja temperatura con alistado, viera y mango de la casa sevillana se va a convertir en un Saäm de panceta a baja temperatura con salsa tártara y escabeches de mejillones de Bullón. “Vamos a hacer una tempura mixta con técnica japonesa y el conocimiento del frito andaluz. Estos procesos de aprendizaje también se terminarán plasmando en el Yebra de Sevilla”.

Entre otros platos, en la carta del negocio japonés van tapas y platos como los Dados de salmón ahumado con almorejo de aguacate, cecina y parmesano; Rape con alcachofas a la brasa con su carbón vegetal, veloute de calamar y crujiente de yuca; el Pulpo con ortiguilla, vieira y gambón con crema de su avión gallego, el Bacalao sobre callos de ternera y caviar de Tobiko o el bloody mary de berberechos y pistachos. No faltarán los Snacks de friturillas sevillanas y un clásico de la casa reinterpretado: el Jarrete de ternera con fideos Thais, salsa de curry y verduritas.

Javier se ha encargado de formar a los cocineros japoneses que reinterpretarán al Yebra, aunque la pandemia lo ha dificultado todo. Así, la mayor parte del trabajo ha sido a través de videoconferencias, apoyado en videos tutoriales que ha enviado el cocinero sevillano, quien en unos días pone rumbo a Tokio para perfilar la apuesta a punto de la carta a unos días de la apertura. Una de las ventajas que señala el cocinero es que ha encontrado en Japón prácticamente todo el género que necesita. “Por ejemplo no hay cecina de León, lógicamente, pero es sustituible por género similar. En vez de angula vamos a utilizar una especie japonesa que está entre la angula y el chanquete”, explica Javier, quien irá cambiando el menú con las estaciones del año y el producto de temporada.

Alfonso Martín está convencido de que el Yebra Japón va a llenar un hueco en el mercado de aquel país. “El producto Yebra va a encajar muy bien. He visto cómo evoluciona la cocina española en Japón durante 20 años y llega en buen momento. Es necesario este segmento: la tapa tradicional muy bien presentada con sabores claros y definidos, bien equilibrados, con juego de texturas, que van a ser motivos de muchas conversaciones. En Japón existen los restaurantes de la paella y la sangría, los de primer nivel, clásicos y modernos, con estrellas Michelin, pero hay un tramo intermedio que se puede trabajar mejor y ahí entra el Yebra”.

Tercer salto de la familia Yebra: Rábano de Sanabria – Sevilla – Tokio.

Segunda vez que la Macarena llega a Japón. La primera vez fue un hit en forma de canción made in Los del Río. Ahora llega como bar de barrio reinventado y también va a darle alegría al cuerpo.

¡Yokoso, Yebra¡

 

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

Tokio Torch Terrace

53 Comentarios

  1. Habrá que ir a Tokio al yebra!!! Que bien lo cuentas don antonio.

  2. Os deseamos muchisima suerte en este gran proyecto.. Os lo merecéis los dos por el gran trabajo que habéis tenido durante muchos años de esfuerzo y dedicación. Vuestros amigos Carlos, Clara e Irene

  3. Os deseamos muchisima suerte en este gran proyecto.. Os lo merecéis los dos por el gran trabajo que habéis tenido durante muchos años de esfuerzo y dedicación. Vuestros amigos Carlos, Clara e Irene

  4. No lo conocía Antonio. Lo apunto para mi próxima visita a Sevilla. A Japón no voy a ir hasta que pase la pandemia. Pero también he tomado nota. Un placer leerte los fin de semana.

  5. Enhorabuena a los “ Yebra” , resultado de toda una vida dedicada a ello. Pioneros en Sevilla en cocina creativa . Muchas felicidades y suerte en este gran proyecto !!

  6. Qué suerte van a tener en Tokio!! Triunfarán seguro!!

  7. Ole ole y ole…
    Miyake sí que sabe..
    No me cabe la menor duda de que será la bomba. Así que a disfrutarlo. Enhorabuena. Os lo merecéis.

  8. El goloso hizo que ese Yebra se convirtiera en un clásico en nuestras visitas a Sevilla. Se hacen querer esos hermanos. Suerte en la aventura.

  9. Me alegro muchísimo por los hermanos sevillanos, les deseo todo el éxito del mundo. A los japoneses les encanta el flamenco, así que supongo que también nuestra comida. Gran artículo Antonio, te felicito doblemente, por tus palabras y por tu Santo. Muchos besos

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