La salazón, ese exquisito bocado de momia
Los fenicios y los romanos glorificaron esta técnica para conservar el pescado, hoy convertida en producto gourmet. La charcutería del mar vive una nueva época dorada.
l eviscerado preciso de cada pez. La precisión en el corte, el ojo clínico del salazonero. Siglos de experiencia, oficio y pericia. Sal y agua. Bienvenidos al maravilloso mundo de las salazones. Lo que empezó siendo una técnica para conservar el pescado, desarrollada con singular habilidad por fenicios y romanos, ha terminado siendo un procedimiento culinario que eleva cada pieza a la categoría de gourmet, especialmente la mojama y las huevas de pescado. Y España estuvo en el epicentro en sus inicios. Especialmente el Mediterráneo y el sur de España: las zonas con largos asentamientos de aquellos pueblos y en el paso de la emigración de los atunes. Hoy, además de en energía termosolar, producción de grafeno y en encender pebeteros olímpicos con una flecha en llamas, España también es una potencia mundial en las salazones de calidad. Y digan lo que digan, el de salazonero es probablemente el oficio más antiguo del mundo.
Aunque en realidad consta que los egipcios ya salaban los pescados, fueron los fenicios, el pueblo comerciante de Tiro y Sidón, allá por el Líbano, quienes desarrollaron una actividad comercial con puertos situados en puntos estratégicos a lo largo de todo el Mediterráneo, donde se trabajaba el pescado y desde donde se reexpedían las mercancías. Entre los llamados “pueblos del mar”, se desató una incesante actividad pesquera y comercial. Los romanos, que no estaban locos como decía Obélix, terminaron por asentar y ampliar una potente red de fábricas de salazones en ciudades como Cartagena (Carthago nova), Gades (Cádiz) y en Bolonia, en la misma provincia; Málaga (Malaca), Alicante (Lucentum), Almuñécar (Sexi) o Adra (Abdera), pero también en Mallorca y otras ciudades del norte de España. Actualmente, además en ciudades como Barbate (Cádiz), Isla Cristina (Huelva), La Escala (Girona) o Santoña (Cantabria) se producen salazones de calidad. Todo el Mediterráneo es un reguero de ánforas para el transporte de los productos y de piletas de piedra de las factorías de cuando la ciudad a la que conducían todos los caminos era la luz de un imperio. Los puertos romanos de Ostia, Emporium y Portus recibían los productos salados, además de aceitunas y garum, esa pasta o salsa mítica de pescado en salmuera cuya elaboración es tan controvertida como la alineación de Morata.
El mercado actual de las salazones en España se calcula entre 60 y 100 millones de euros anuales. Aproximadamente, unas 20 empresas se dedican en exclusiva a este producto. Y la mayoría, como en el tiempo de los fenicios y los romanos, siguen localizadas en la llamada ruta fenicia, entre Barcelona, Cádiz y Huelva, del Mediterráneo al Atlántico. Es, además, la zona donde más se consume.
La técnica ancestral de las salazones es bien sencilla. Una vez eviscerado el pescado y bien limpio se mete en sal y se prensa. Unos ocho días después se extrae la pieza, se limpia y se cura al aire. No hay mucho más. La clave consiste en que la sal marina deseque el pescado, elimine el agua e impida la acción de las bacterias, siempre tan juguetonas, lo que permite conservar el producto, potenciar su sabor y mantener intactas sus cualidades nutritivas. Pero con el tiempo los fabricantes artesanales y muchos cocineros, aun teniendo ya cámaras frigoríficas y demás inventos de la humanidad, han hecho de este procedimiento milenario y natural, un arte. La sal tuvo tanta relevancia en tiempos de Roma que llegó a utilizarse como pago a los soldados. De ahí, la palabra salarium. Más tarde llegaría la polémica por el salarium mínimum, pero ese es otro tema.
La mojama, una de las piezas más renombradas, procede del lomo de atún. Es una pieza magnifica. Del atún también la hueva, como de la maruca. Y esa otra delicia cremosa y ligeramente sápida que estalla en el paladar como una ola que es la hueva de mújol. El bonito, el atunarro, el bacalao, la corvina o el pez volador. Y por supuesto, los arencones y las sardinas. Casi cualquier pieza procedente del mar responde bien a esta técnica. Otro día tocará hablar del jamón o la cecina, esas exquisiteces ibéricas que degustamos gracias a la donación generosa de una pata por parte de los cochinos ibéricos y las terneras.
En San Pedro del Pinatar, una pequeña población de Murcia, la familia Albadalejo hace salazones desde 1939. En plena posguerra, el abuelo Diego se subía de noche al punto más elevado del pueblo para observar hacia dónde se dirigían las luces de los barcos. Ponía la directa al lugar del desembarco del pescado y se llevaba las sardinas más frescas que llegaban esa noche a la costa. Así comienza la historia de Salazones Diego, una empresa con treinta empleados, gestionada hoy por David Albadalejo, tercera generación salazonera, quien con la jubilación de su padre fue abandonando su despacho de abogado para hacerse cargo del negocio. “Esto es algo muy romántico, pero tenía la obligación de continuar con la tradición familiar”, explica. Los primeros productos de la firma eran sardinas saladas en tabales, aquellas cajas redondas de madera donde se colocaban las sardinas ordenadas por tamaño y formando una espiral. La sardina era la reina de la posguerra. No había ultramarinos en España sin un tabal en el mostrador y sin el aroma inconfundible que desprendía el pescado salado, con su puntito a rancio, que todo hay que decirlo.
La firma murciana elabora todos sus productos artesalmente. Utilizan las mismas técnicas ancestrales de los pueblos del Mediterráneo. Hoy trabajan el atún, especialmente la mojama, que se hace con el lomo del túnido, pero también las huevas de mújol, de bacalao, de corvina, bonito o de bacalao. Igualmente salan y secan el bonito y la caballa. La sardina tiene cada vez menos salida, muy limitada a un consumidor tradicional.
Hay quien ha ido mucho más lejos en el trabajo con las salazones. Es el caso del triestrellado Quique Dacosta, quien en su restaurante de Denia revolucionó la técnica inventando un túnel de sal que permite que las distintas piezas de pescado se impregnen de sal por absorción, sin estar en contacto directa con ella. Además trabaja curaciones más cortas, evitando momificar cada corte y manteniendo la jugosidad y los sabores. La falsa panceta de sepia, la cecina de atún o las huevas de mújol con una sola hora de sal son algunas de sus propuestas.
Y otro triestrellado, Ángel León, de Aponiente, en El Puerto De Santa María, acaba de parir el jamón de Mar con la empresa Petaca chico: las ventrescas de atunes de hasta 300 kilos curada en sal en secaderos de mojama. Con una infiltración de grasa impresionante. Tiene hechura de jamón, se corta como el jamón, parece jamón, pero jamón no es. Es lo que llaman ahora un trampantojo, una técnica pictórica convertida en palabro gastronómico para definir el juego de espejos y la simulación consistente en ofrecer visualmente un producto en el plato pero que en realidad es otra cosa completamente distinta.
Salazones Diego produce hasta 200 toneladas anuales de producto. Los trabajadores han ido adquiriendo el conocimiento a viva voz por la transmisión de los empleados más veteranos. Tardan hasta dos años en dominar la técnica, sobre todo la del eviscerado del atún, la más compleja.
David Albadalejo opina que este negocio tiene dificultades propias para dar un salto a mercados más grandes. Por un lado, la escasez de oferta de género -Salazones Diego compra pescado desde Mauritania a Brasil, el Golfo de México, Australia y, por supuesto, en las costas españolas- ; y por otro, ciertos “reparos” de algunos consumidores respecto al producto, un pescado solo curado con sal. “Además las salazones no se han adecuado al consumidor. El bonito seguimos vendiéndolo abierto en mariposa y ofrece una visión que no es atractiva para todo el mundo. Y nos falta conseguir llegar del secadero al cliente, sin tener que lonchear y precortar las piezas porque el producto pierde mucho. La gente quiere el jamón recién cortado, pues esto es igual”, afirma el gerente y propietario de la firma.
Eviscerado, lavado, salado, reposo y oreado. Ese el procedimiento desde los fenicios hasta hoy. Ponga, generosamente, mojama en su vida. Oiga, ¡ la charcutería de la mar ¡.
Todas la fotos realizadas en instalaciones de Salazones Diego
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Magnifica lección sobre el proceder y tratamiento del mundo de la mojama y derivados. Siempre un placer leerte y aprender con tus apuntes y reflexiones querido y admirado Antonio.
Espero que estas magníficas lecciones acaben en un libro.
Un libro que habremos de gusrdar como un tesoro.
Eres grande, hermano.
Gracias por compartirlo Antonio. Lo he encontrado muy interesante y ameno, principalmente en lo referido atún, que como buen gaditano me gusta desde el tartar, al encebollado o simplemente a la plancha. Y de la mojama, qué te voy a contar. Sólo un pero. Los boquerones, o anchoas, o bocarte, porqué están ausentes? Un abrazo!
Entre los cronistas gastronómicos ocupa ya un lugar de privilegio mi admirado Antonio que lo ha hecho todo en el periodismo y otras disciplinas de la comunicación. Esta crónica en la que desliza unas gotas de la ironía gaditana tan difícil de practicar, es una gran muestra de conocimiento de la materia, de narración brillante y con pedagogía de la buena. Un imprescindible Estoy con Gabilondo., esperando ese libro que será de cabecera.
¡¡ Magnífico artículo, Antonio te felicito !!. Aquí en San Roque tenemos Carteia, una magnífica ciudad fundada por los fenicios y engrandecida por cartagineses y romanos. Por desgracia nuestra, le plantaron encima la refinería de petróleo y no es muy conocida, puesto que puede atentar contra los intereses económicos de dicha refinería. Una pena muy grande, puesto que se cree que fue el primer asentamiento romano en la península Ibérica. Cuando vengas por aquí, te llevaré a que la conozcas » en persona «.
Exagerado, abrazo
El cariño te ciega amigo. Abrazo y disfruta Menorca
Gracias Carlos. Un abrazo
Hecho, abrazo
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