Palitos de pescado, la salchicha del mar
Las varitas ultracongeladas se fabrican por toneladas desde 1955. El invento británico rompe todas las barreras del consumo, pero la cantidad de pescado oscila entre el 35% y el 60% como máximo
n palito de pescado es un artefacto comestible que las más de las veces no tiene forma de palito y tampoco es pescado. Su misión en la vida es ser frito hasta convertirse en una bomba calórica. Su reto es tratar de convencer a los papás y las mamás del mundo de que sus hijos, insumisos pescateros, están consumiendo lo que venimos llamando pescado. Y encima, les dicen que es sano. Y para colmo, hay quien se lo cree. Pero el palito de pescado forma parte de nuestra cultura alimenticia -que no gastronómica- y ha sido consumido en cantidades industriales en la mayoría de hogares españoles. Y aún sigue reinando en almuerzos y cenas. Lo tiene todo: es “pescado”, fácil, limpio, cómodo, larga caducidad y bajo precio: se guarda en el congelador y a funcionar. A la freidora. Y como a los niños les gusta, pues al turrón, que es duro y de Jijona.
Se trata de un invento inglés, lo cual ya debería servir de aviso preventivo respecto a su nivel de excelencia culinaria. Aunque, en realidad, es peor: es hijo de la industria inglesa del pescado congelado. No de sus chefs. Por lo que directamente estamos habilitados para pensar peor aún. Como ocurre con casi todos los inventos relacionados con la comida no está perfectamente acreditado su origen. Algunos lo sitúan en 1929 con la creación de los congeladores de placas, que obligaban a congelar el pescado en barritas y a protegerlo con pan rallado para su mejor conservación. Pero la tesis más aceptada es que fue en Reino Unido y en 1940 cuando la industria pesquera del arenque empezó a encurtirlo para exportarlo y, a la vez, se las ingenió para hacer ese pescado fuera más atractivo para el gusto local. Así nació la varita de arenque. Que después fue de balacao, y de merluza, y de abadejo, y de casi cualquier pescado blanco. Los primeros palitos se produjeron en 1955 en la Birds Eye Factory, una planta de procesado de Great Yarmouth, en la costa de Norfolk, en la desembocadura del río Yare, que fue el epicentro británico del arenque hasta los sesenta, cuando la flota fue desapareciendo sin que aún pudieran gritar aquello de “Europa nos roba” y marcarse un brexit. La localidad, que también debe ser una de las cunas del fish and chips, finalmente sustituyó su fuente de riqueza y orientó su economía hacia el petróleo del Mar del Norte. Con lo cual se demuestra que, al final, a estos paisanos les daba igual procesar pescado ultracongelado que fabricar tubos para los yacimientos de gas.
Los palitos o varitas o lingotitos o delicias o taquitos o ladrillitos -o como quieran llamarlo- alcanzan el 61% de contenido en pescado en las marcas más generosas. Algunas bajan hasta el 35%. El resto de los ingredientes, por si tiene curiosidad: harina y almidón de trigo, azúcares, agua, levadura, sal, almidón modificado de maíz, albúmina de huevo, gasificantes (disfofatos y carbonatos de sodio), espesantes (carragenanos y goma guar), colorante (riboflavina), cúrcuma, pimentón, concentrado de limón y puede contener trazas de leche y moluscos. A 180 calorías los 100 gramos (antes de freír, suponemos) y a seis euros el kilo. Da poco trabajo en la cocina, no hay que desespinar ni mancharse las manos manipulando el pescado, no deja olores y, como queda dicho, encima los niños lo devoran. Fácil. Jogo bonito.
Manuel Hernández Rodríguez y Ana Sastre Gallego en su “Tratado de Nutrición”(Ediciones Díaz de Santos, 1999) ya destacaban que “el contenido de pescado en los denominados palitos de pescado o delicias con diferentes denominaciones que se venden rebozados ha ido disminuyendo a lo largo del tiempo y la mayoría no se corresponde a la declarada”. Desde luego los nutricionistas no recomiendan su consumo. No parece justo que para ingerir una pequeña porción de pescado haya que pasar el fielato de las harinas refinadas y las grasas insanas y de baja calidad.
Se autodenominan “delicias” y apelan a un clásico de los productos de tercera gama: “Hecho en casa”. Pues no, ni delicia ni hecho en casa, salvo que usted compre peces sin cabeza y en su casa los procese con una máquina que extrae los filetes de cada lado de la espina dorsal, que los pase por una rueda y una cuchilla para separar la piel de la carne; que los filetee y haga bloques congelados con la carne del pescado, los pase por pan rallado para duplicar el volumen del palito resultante, que les dé un baño de aceite vegetal caliente para sellarlo y que vuelva a congelar la varita de nuevo a -20 grados centígrados. Porque eso es lo que hacen en las fábricas y se parece muy poco a lo que la gente normal suele hacer en sus casas. Aunque como dijo el torero, “hay gente pa tó”.
Fingers fish o sticks fish le llaman los británicos, sus creadores. O los fischstäbchen que le dicen los alemanes, en cuyos supermercados lideran las ventas desde hace años. El código alimentario alemán obliga a que el 65% del palito sea pescado; y un 25% en otro producto hecho a base de carne de pescado picada. Hakai magazine, una revista especializada en ciencia relacionada con la costa, sostiene que hay fábricas en Alemania que fabrican en un solo año palitos de pescado para dar cuatro veces la vuelta a la tierra. Los franceses también jaman esa delicatesen. Eso sí, lo hacen con el poético nombre de bâtonnete de poisson, que suena a plato de Joël Robuchon, pero es la misma cosa, eso sí, con un ¡oh là là¡ muy chic.
Existe un señor llamado Paul Josephson, profesor de historia rusa en el Colby College de Maine, que es conocido como “Señor palo de pescado” y pasa por ser una autoridad en la materia. Es autor de lo que se considera “el documento académico definitorio sobre los palitos de pescado”. Dice que le costó más trabajo que las empresas paliteras le informaran de sus actividades que acceder a la información sobre las bombas nucleares en los archivos soviéticos. Su tesis es que los palitos de pescado nacieron para resolver un problema. En la década de los 50 la tecnología había favorecido la pesca masiva gracias los motores diésel más potentes, los barcos más grandes y los nuevos materiales para la pesca, Así desde el final de la segunda guerra mundial, las capturas pesqueras aumentaban sin parar. Para evitar que se estropeara el género empezaron a desespinarlo, despellejarlo y a congelarlo a bordo. El problema es que el pescado quedaba hecho un bloque imposible de separar sin destrozar la mercancía y someterla a una descongelación sin retorno. Así que trataron de convencer a los supermercados de que vendieran esos bloques congelados a las amas de casa para que cada día pudieran cortar sus propios filetes. Fue un fracaso. No hay más tonto que el que minusvalora la inteligencia y el carácter de las amas de casa. Finalmente decidieron cortarlos en ladrillos pequeños, empanarlos y venderlos congelados. Listos para freír. Ahí empezó la leyenda. En 1953 un total de 13 empresas fabricaron ya 3,4 millones de kilos de barritas. Décadas después, Bansky, la celebridad grafitera de Bristol, inmortalizó dos palitos de pescado dentro de una pecera, convirtiendo su obra en pura posmodernidad ultracongelada y en un alegato.
Hoy, casi 70 años después, hay generaciones de niños a los que se les alimentó haciéndoles creer que el pescado venía en ladrillitos empanados y el pollo era un Mcnugget. Y se les dio licencia para enterrarlos en un continuo infinito de ketchup, mostaza y mayonesa. Incluso el popular videojuego Fornite ha creado el traje Palito de pescado como pienso para peces: no me pidan detalles por favor. Cuando muchos de esos boomers descubrieron el pescado fresco debió ser un shock. He aquí un ejemplo tragicómico del descontrol introducido en la parte del hipotálamo que controla los centros neuronales del hambre: una encuesta practicada en Reino Unido y que cita Hakai Magazine revela que uno de cada cinco jóvenes ingleses devorapalitos creen que en realidad los palitos de pescado (fingers fish en UK) son dedos de pescado. Deben ser los afamados peces polidácticlos -o perisodáctilos, según se mire- del canal de la mancha.
Hijos menores de las delicadísimas tempuras japonesas de pescado y marisco, y muy lejos de las pavías de bacalao de El rinconcillo (Sevilla) o El Labra (Madrid) y de la merluza rebozada y crujiente del extinto Bar Americano (Cádiz), los palitos son de división regional, de campo de grava con las áreas sin pintar y sin banderín de córner. Eso sí, arrastran un innegable éxito de público. La crítica es otra cosa. Porque nadie se engañe: los palitos son al pescado frito lo que el surimi al cangrejo real ruso, la gula a la angula o Julio Iglesias al belcanto.
“Margarita, está linda la mar”, escribía Ruben Darío a su musa Margarita Debayle. Estará linda la mar, pero los palitos casi no la han visto.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Tengo serías dudas de si alguna vez en mi vida los he llegado a probar.
Antonio genial. Se lo mando a mis nietos para que se eduquen!!
Intenta colocar este contenido como artículo en revistas de impacto. Es importante dar a conocer esta información. Un abrazo.
Hasta la comida chatarra tiene su historia. Interesante “homenaje” a los palitos de pescado.
Don Antonio, de palitos de pescado hemos comido tela. Que le vamos a hacer. Eso es lo que había. Gracias a los Dioses, ahora practicamos otra disciplina. La del gallo del lunar, por cierto a precios desorbitados en los mercados. Todo sea por la salud. Y menos por el bolsillo.
PD; Y los hijos de la Gran Bretaña le ponen vinagre, del malo. Es horrible.
Ay, jajaja, qué me he reído contigo, Antonioooo. Igualito, igualito que nuestro » pescaíto frito», dónde va a parar, mon Dieu. Vente pa’ Cái a «comé» como Dios manda, amigo. ¡¡ Te felicito, un gran trabajo de investigación y promulgación !!. Muchas gracias y muchos besos
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