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El gazpacho andaluz, la poción mágica de los campesinos andaluces

La sopa fría andaluza reina en las mesas del verano. La industria fabrica cada vez productos de más calidad y los chefs sofistican sus recetas. Pero sigue siendo un plato popular, casero, nutritivo y refrescante. Patrimonio Inmaterial de la humanidad y la primera bebida isotónica de la historia según algunos.

l gazpacho es un compendio de inteligencia, adaptación al medio y buen gusto. La obra cumbre de los campesinos andaluces, quienes mezclaban en un cubo aceite, vinagre, sal, ajo, pan duro, agua helada y se lo llevaban puesto para aguantar las interminables jornadas bajo el sol de justicia de la canícula andaluza. Cuando Colón  hizo lo que hizo llegaron a España algunos productos prodigiosos -el tabaco, aparte, según gustos- que cambiaron nuestra cocina para siempre. Uno fue la patata, que mató al boniato. Sin comentarios. Pero el otro fue el tomate. Así, a partir del siglo XVI aquel cubo empezó a incorporar el tomate y el pimiento, que también venía en el lote trasatlántico. Y aquello empezó a parecerse al gazpacho que conocemos hoy: tomate, cebolla (o no), pimiento, pan duro, agua, ajo, aceite de oliva, vinagre, sal. Y pepino, aunque el pepino es como la cebolla en la tortilla de patatas. Tiene defensores y detractores capaz de enfrentarse a primera sangre por defender su pertinencia o su defenestración.

Pero en esos ingredientes está el canon. Sin una fuente original exacta, como ocurre con todas las recetas totémicas, mil veces reinterpretado y sin proporciones exactas e indiscutibles -el ojímetro y el golpe de muñeca funcionan bien con la práctica-, el gazpacho reina en las mesas andaluzas desde mediados de junio a septiembre. Y no solo en las andaluzas: es un plato que se extiende a lo largo y ancho de España. Aunque fue parido por aquellos jornaleros que inventaron esa poción mágica que, sin haberse caído de pequeños en la marmita, les daba fuerzas y nutrientes para segar y sembrar de sol a sol. Aquellos tiempos en los que una bestia y un arado eran un lujo, cuando la inteligencia artificial y el internet de las cosas aplicado a la agricultura era tan utópico como que Florentino Pérez se lleve este verano a Iker Casillas a Baleares en el Pitina III.

Chef Dani García

Para el gastrónomo gallego Alfonso Díaz, el gazpacho es “la primera bebida isotónica de la historia”. Sostiene que cuando está en Galicia no le entra “ni de coña”, pero “cuando lo probé en Jaén fue como agua bendita: ese agua, la vitamina de las frutas y hortalizas, el pan como hidrato de carbono, el ajo para los tóxicos, el vinagre, las sales minerales: una sabiduría perfecta”. Díaz también sostiene, por cierto, que los gallegos inventaron el primer tupperware de la historia: “Fue la empanada: al relleno le pusimos la tapa de arriba para evitar que entraran las moscas y el polvo del camino. Así, además, se conserva mejor y dura más al tener menos contacto con el oxígeno”.

         Y lo de las bondades de esta sopa fría no es solo cosa suya: hace 30 años (en el Aeropasce Panel Symposium de 1993) que los canadienses decidieron incluir el gazpacho en la dieta de sus pilotos de aviones al considerar sus virtudes nutritivas y refrescantes.

El gazpacho es la reina de las sopas frías andaluzas, pero hay variedades. La RAE ya definía el gazpacho en su edición de 1.739 como “un género de sopa o menestra que se hace con pan hecho pedazos, aceite, vinagre, ajos y otros ingredientes conforme al gusto de cada uno”. Ni rastro del tomate en esa primera entrada de la RAE, aunque la investigadora Maríaluz López-Terrada afirma que “los españoles tuvieron su primer contacto con esta fruta en 1521 tras la conquista de la ciudad de Tenochtítlan”, la capital del imperio azteca, cuyos habitantes, los mexicas, lo tenían totalmente “integrado en la cultura y dieta náhuatl». El tomate y la trilogía de la milpa, un sistema de policultivo maya basado en el maíz, la calabaza y el frijol, son la base de la cocina prehispánica junto a los chiles. Y desde mediados del siglo XVI ya hay abundante literatura botánica europea sobre los tomates.

En el catálogo de sopas frías andaluza sobresale también el salmorejo cordobés (el gazpacho es una sopa fría mientras que el salmorejo es una emulsión más espesa), que es posiblemente la segunda elaboración más extendida. También el ajo blanco, muy típico de la zona de Málaga y posiblemente más parecido al concentrado original ya que no lleva tomates, aunque sí incorpora almendras y se remata con uvas peladas y, en algunos lugares, se come con sardinas marinadas. La mazamorra cordobesa es similar, aunque a veces también lleva aceitunas negras. Parecido pero distinto es, por ejemplo, el aguaillo de Écija (Sevilla), una plato ácido y dulce: pepino, manzana, cebolla morada, aceite, vinagre y sal. En Lora del Río, también en Sevilla, hacen un gazpacho de habas que procede del rito socializador y colectivo de pelar las habas en plena calle, con las mujeres sentadas en corro a la fresquita de la tarde.

La porra antequerana, también con textura espesa, añade pimientos rojos y suele utilizar jamón ibérico en taquitos y huevo duro para rematar el plato. Y si quieren algo más contundente atrévanse con la porra de Montejaque: coronan la espesa sopa fría con una generosa montaña de taquitos de salchichón y chorizo ibérico. Y así, puede usted alinear las recetas una detrás de otra y da la vuelta a España. Sin poner un pie en el suelo, como la ardilla de Estrabón. Aunque seguramente Estrabón no dijo nunca eso. Pero si non e vero, e ben trovato.

Lo más relevante es que el gazpacho es un ejemplo más de esa verdad conocida de que la fuente de la gastronomía es el territorio. La cocina es pura antropología, un hecho cultural extraordinario “con duras pugnas ente la cultura natural, entre el deseo y la realidad, el gusto y la necesidad” escribe la profesora de la Universidad de Sevilla Isabel González Turmo en su trabajo sobre la dimensión social de la cocina desde la antropología de la alimentación,  “a la hora de analizar una cocina, al indagar en el modo en que se combinan sus ingredientes, condimentos, procedimientos y técnicas culinarias se descubren influencias remotas y se palpa cómo han vivido sus protagonistas que, al fin y al cabo, son todos una humanidad que se no ha librado de comer o de echar en falta la comida ni un solo día de su vida”, añade.

Chef Dani García

Y así fue siempre. De toda la vida, que diría un presentador cañí. Hasta que nos dio por comer kiwis de nueva Zelanda en vez de melones y sandías de verano o las berenjenas de julio. Pero, a lo que se ve, somos más de naranjas en agosto y de setas cuando no llueve. Pues los del gazpacho ya habían inventado aquella sopa reconstituyente y sabrosa con los ingredientes que tenían a menos de un minuto. Y lo hicieron mucho antes de que alguien tuviera la feliz idea de inventarse lo de la alimentación kilómetro cero como una verdad revelada, cuando no era más que la vuelta a la lógica y lo que hicieron nuestros ancestros, los mismos que, antes del imperio de las frigorías corrían las contraventanas en agosto para evitar que se calentara la casa. Fue Sandro Pertini en 1986, siendo presidente de Italia, el primero que citó la idea de la “sostenibilidad alimentaria”. Pero la globalización de los productos, la oferta sin fin y el nivel insaciable de la sociedad caprichosa en la que vivimos ha roto, definitivamente, el calendario lógico de cada alimento. Si lo que comemos no sabe a nada, si parece otra fruta o viene hasta arriba de pesticidas y plaguicidas, eso ya es otra cosa. Y si el frutero de la esquina nos vende su producto orgánico y biológico con precios un 20% por encima, ya nos parece caro. Y ahí seguimos: con la matraca de las malangas, los cocos y las quinoas.

Del gazpacho andaluz sin más apellidos, Fernando Huidobro, gastrónomo y presidente de honor de la Academia Andaluza de Gastronomía y Turismo, destacaría “la humildad de su origen y la anarquía de sus recetas originarias”. Y añade: “Obviamente cada uno lo hace a su manera y forma y con lo ingredientes básicos que se tienen a mano. Hoy sigue siendo absolutamente popular, es un alimento que sigue reinando en verano en todas las casas andaluzas y ya en media España. Si te vas a Francia también lo encontrará. Debería ser denominada la bebida nacional andaluza por excelencia”. Por cierto, que está escrito que fue Eugenia de Montijo, la esposa de Napoléon III la que llevó el gazpacho a Francia. Huidobro propone que Andalucía fije una receta del gazpacho” porque “la dispersión de recetas no favorece su expansión y este es uno de nuestros tesoros”. De hecho, el gazpacho fue declarado Patrimonio Inmaterial de la Humanidad por la Unesco.

Hoy, julio de 2021, no hay periódico, portal o revista que no haga su lista de los mejores gazpachos industriales. Mire por donde. Pero lo cierto es que la industria ha ido alcanzado estándares de calidad extraordinarios, algo impensable cuando los primeros gazpachos de bote aspiraban a sustituir al de tu madre, como si eso fuera posible.

Pero a la vez prácticamente no hay chef de prestigio que no haya ensayado con el gazpacho. Cada uno con su inspiración y su vuelta de tuerca.

     El malagueño Dani García tiene dos recetas, premiadas y suculentas, que supusieron una de las primeras actualizaciones de las sopas frías andaluzas. Fue el desacomplejamiento del plato y la elevación a los fogones estrellados de una receta popular, allá por comienzos de los 2000: el tomate nitro, gazpacho verde y quisquillas; y el gazpacho de cerezas, con nieve de queso y anchoas. Susi Díaz en La Finca le añadió bogavante y pistachos verdes y Ramón Freixa, sal de aceitunas negras, ajo encurtido y polvo de tomate.

El mexicano Roberto Ruiz se atrevió en su ya fenecido Punto MX de Madrid a añadirle aguacate y pico de gallo y Joan Roca siguió en su Celler con las cerezas de Dani García. Diego Guerrero hace uno de impresión con frambuesas, jalapeños y tomate corazón de buey, ese tomatazo sanguíneo y carnoso que desafía los sentidos. Para Carme Ruscadella el gazpacho incorporaba cola de gamba y albahaca; para Toño Pérez de Atrio lleva pulpa de tomate, gamba blanca y pepino; y para Kisko García de El Choco de Córdoba el ajo blanco se sirve con cúrcuma y helado de manzana, refrescante. Lo dicho, España, de gazpacho en gazpacho, no te la acabas.

Llega el verano y el gazpacho iguala a guiris (que lo piden voz en grito como si se les fuera la vida) y a los lugareños; a los restaurantes de alcurnia y a las ventas de carretera; a ricos y pobres, salvo cuando a los primeros les da por el esnobismo de rematar el cuenco con unos gramitos de caviar. El gazpacho ha tenido sus momentos de gloria en el arte, en la música con Sabina y su ex “arpía” que dominaba el punto del gazpacho; en los viajeros románticos, en el cine; en un episodio de Mad Men; en las comidas presidenciales bajo la batuta de Michele Obama o en aquel episodio de Los Simpsons –“Lisa la vegetariana”- en el que se ofrece como alternativa a la barbacoa de carne. Al gazpacho quizás solo le ha faltado un Warhol que lo inmortalizara, como hizo con la insufrible sopa condensada que el químico John Dorrance parió para la Campbell´s.  Igualita aquella cosa de lata que un gazpacho fresco en su punto y en su esplendor veraniego.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

 

287 Comentarios

  1. Todos los días yo tomo gazpacho en verano y después de leer tu sabroso artículo de esta semana tomaré doble ración diaria.

  2. Pues si, querido Antonio, reconozco ser un gazpacho dependiente, y creo que tengo un problema serio con esta receta, ya que resulta que cuando me estoy tomando el primer vaso, estoy pensando en el SEGUNDO, Se puede considerar grave??

  3. No me imaginaba yo que hubiese tantos gaspachos raros que incorporan gambas y cosas raras. Mi mujer, gallega, pero de madre gaditana lo borda, al estilo clásico y por supuesto sin cebolla..
    Ese gaspacho que yo lo tomo en vaso, como Dios manda y ella en taza y con cuchara, lo tienes que probar en mi casa cuando vuelvas por aquí y después escribe lo que quieras. Un abrazo compañeiro!

  4. He alucinado con tu prolija y acertada lección magistral sobre el gazpacho y sus diferentes variables. He de reconocer que soy más aficionado al salmorejo con taquitos de jamón y huevo picado.
    También me gusta el gazpacho pero con muy poco pepino.. Queda pendiente un pequeño homenaje.

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