La Provenza, el sueño de una vida entregada al foie gras y el rosado
El clásico de Peter Mayle Un año en Provenza se convierte en relectura imprescindible de verano para aficionados a la buena mesa y al humor inglés y en el descubrimiento del año para los rezagados
Quién no ha soñado alguna vez con vivir en Sicilia? ¿O en Tánger, como Paul Bowles o Jean Genet? ¿En la Toscana? Incluso en una isla desierta. O como Chris Stewart, el batería de Génesis, instalarse en la Alpujarra de Granada, desde donde firmó su súperventas Entre limones.
Peter Mayle no solo soñó irse a vivir a la Provenza sino que lo hizo. El escritor, psicólogo, publicitario y psicoanalista inglés (Brighton, 1939), firmó hace ahora 32 años un clásico de la literatura gastronómica y de viajes. Un año en Provenza es el décalogo de las ilusiones de un inglés que, bajo la lluvia gris de las islas, sueña con el soleado y eterno paisaje del sureste francés, entre la cuenca del Ródano y el Mediterráneo, donde las viñas producen un mítico vino rosado (aunque en España haya ejércitos de catedráticos empeñados en denostar estos vinos) entre olivos y el morado de la lavanda. Es el sueño de una vida mejor. Un entorno donde el tiempo se detiene y se emplean las horas del día en mirar cómo la uva crece en la vid.
Aunque la realidad siempre tiene meandros. Y los paraísos totales no existen. Este exquisito libro convertido en referencia del género podría haberse titulado también Aventuras y desventuras de dos guiris británicos que no entienden ni el alma ni el acento provenzal por muchos cursos de francés que hayan hecho. Mayle y su esposa son un matrimonio inglés que adquiere una casa de más de dos siglos de antigüedad y muros de un metro de grosor en el Lubéron, en la carretera vecinal entre Ménerbes y Bonnieux, un paraje de ensueño que discurre entre cerezos y pueblos medievales. La vida allí es, a la vez, cielo e infierno. El descubrimiento de la cultura gastronómica de la Provenza solo se ve empañada con el tropiezo con la fauna local. Una legión imposible, incapaz de cumplir compromisos y plazos, de yeseros, carpinteros, reparadores de chimeneas, transportistas y hasta viticultores con derecho de pernada sobre las vides del nuevo propietario. Si este ejército desorganizado no logra arruinar la vida y las ilusiones de los británicos de seguir viviendo en aquella zona es porque la afamada flema británica existe y está testada en situaciones difíciles como esta.
Con un sentido del humor muy british, dibujando situaciones creíbles por pintorescas y verosímiles pero sin caer en la caricatura fácil, el libro se devora. Es muy divertido, bien escrito, ágil a modo casi de Diario y entregado al disfrute de los sentidos. Son doce capítulos, uno por mes, lo justo para recoger una cosecha de cada tributo de la tierra y para enfrentar con piedad y paciencia a la plaga de fontaneros y cristaleros que les cae encima.
No puede ser más hermoso un libro que comienza con el almuerzo de año nuevo en un pequeño restaurante de paredes de piedra llamado Le simiane en el que el propietario ofrecía a sus clientes un almuerzo de seis platos con champaña rosado: foie gras, mousse de langosta, buey en croûte, ensaladas aliñadas con aceite de oliva virgen, quesos, postres “de una liviandad milagrosa”, y digestivos. Ni puede ser más civilizada una región en la que los vecinos te invitan a cenar con un menú de invierno -los ingleses, víctimas de una lluvia continua, ignoraban que en las zonas cálidas la gastronomía se adapta al clima- en el que incluyen patés de conejo, jabalí y tordo; terrina de cerdo con marc; saucissons con granos de pimienta; cebollitas tiernas marinadas en salsa de tomate, pechugas de ave asadas con setas, ensalada verde con pan frito, ajo y aceite; queso de cabra y pastel de crema y almendras. Más los destilados locales. ¡C´est la France¡
Es imposible no impregnarse de los placeres gastronómicos que nos regala Mayle. Te conecta con una forma de entender la cultura gastronómica seductora y casi única. La pareja, entre sofocón y sofocón a cuenta de la reforma de la casa, toma como afición descubrir pequeños restaurantes en lugares recónditos, donde la calidad de la comida siempre está por encima de la decoración y el confort. A los franceses no les importa hacer kilómetros para alcanzar una de estas metas. Es el caso del Auberge de Loube, cerca de Bonnieu, donde la pareja disfrutó, a solas en el restaurante, de un almuerzo opíparo a cargo del chef Maurice, cuya obsesión no era la de obtener estrellas Michelin y ser aupado a algún olimpo, sino hacer viable su negocio para poder seguir viviendo en el campo con sus caballos. El menú, de 110 francos de precio (no llegaría a 20 euros), incluía catorce entremeses -corazones de alcachofas, sardinitas fritas en mantequilla, tabouleh perfumado, brandada de bacalao, setas marinadas, chipirones, tapenade, rábanos, mejillones fríos, patés o pimientos- y un plato principal con un corte de cordero cocinado con dientes de ajo, judías tiernas y una galette dorada de patata y cebolla. Queso banon tierno en hojas de parra , sorbete de limón, tarta de chocolate y créme anglaise. Champagne de melocotón, vino blanco y un Châteauneuf-du Pape. Para quedarse a vivir. O para adoptar al chef.
Mayle también escribió otros libros sobre la Provenza además de las Lecciones de la buena vida. Aventuras con cuchillo, tenedor y sacacorchos. Sus obras son perfectas para aficionados a la buena mesa, además de manuales de uso sobre poblaciones complicadillas. Y sobre todo una aproximación real al sueño de una vida distinta: “Los calcetines ya solo eran un recuerdo. Mi reloj quedó en el cajón y descubrí que podía saber más o menos la hora por la posición de las sombras en el patio. Me estaba convirtiendo en un vegetal feliz que mantenía contactos esporádicos con la vida real”. Era junio. Los británicos cumplían medio año en la Provenza y ya habían entendido que en Francia el estómago es la parte más importante del cuerpo, que el pan –baguettes o boules de costra oscura- puede ser una obra de arte, que los campesinos franceses jamás tiran una azada rota, una guadaña mellada o la transmisión de una Renault de 1949; y, al fin, habían aprendido que las viñas en otoño son un paisaje hiperrealista de hojas bermejas, amarillas y escarlatas inmóviles bajo el sol.
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Geniales tus palabras, Antonio, como siempre, me cautivas y me admiras. Podríamos decir sin temor a equivocarnos : la France est différente !!. Feliz sábado, amigo. Muchos besos desde el sur del sur.
La gastronomía es esto: vida, ni sofisticación ni grandes marcas. Cultura acumulada y fauna humana diversa y dispersa. También descuida e indolente.
Después del comentario de José nevado solo me atrevo a decirte Antonio que tú goloso es muy sabroso.
Lugar que apunto para un viaje en el futuro próximo. Ya me imagino lo que será pasear por ésa tierra y descubrir un montón de sensaciones. Un placer.
Pudimos disfrutar de una semana en ese maravilloso paisaje de viñas y villas de piedra.
Para repetir. Mediterráneo en vena. Francia en su esencia.. Quizás para la próxima vista pueda seguir esa magnífica lectura o buscar un acompañante ilustrado como nuestro Goloso.
pone fecha, compañero ¡
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