La industria de la alimentación y la gastronomía se reinventa tras el covid
La 34 edición del Salón Gourmet ha registrado el primer lleno tras la pandemia. Pujanza, vigor e imaginación en la industria española. Repaso a diez expositores interesantes
a 34 edición del Salón Gourmet ha supuesto la recuperación de la actividad de ferias gastronómicas tras casi dos años de parón por la pandemia. Celebrada en Ifema, en Madrid, esta semana, el público ha desbordado las expectativas. La cita, dirigida a un público profesional, ha ocupado cuatro pabellones de la institución ferial madrileña con cientos de expositores y una amplia presencia institucional a través de comunidades autónomas y diputaciones.
El Salón Gourmets de la alimentación y bebidas de calidad pasa por ser uno de los más importantes de Europa como “escaparate” de tendencias de alta gama”; según la organización. Una de las virtudes de la cita , que tiene un carácter comercial aunque ofrece numerosas actividades y shows, es que reúne a prácticamente toda la cadena de valor de la gastronomía, desde profesionales nacionales internacionales, el mundo de la restauración al completo, empresas de servicios avanzados, hostelería, distribución, catering, etiquetado industrial, packaging o espacios específicos como el túnel del vino y el del queso.
Esta celebración anual, obligada en el calendario gastronómico nacional, había entrado en barbecho debido a la coivd 19, como todos los salones especializados. No es le primero del calendario que se celebra pero sí ha sido el primero en recuperar buena parte del vigor de antaño. Las cifras son elocuentes: el Salón ha ocupado 46.000 metros cuadrados, con 1.548 stands y 40.000 productos en exposición. Se han registrado casi 75.000 visitantes y han participado profesionales de 18 países además de cien importadores invitados expresamente por la organización. Y se han celebrado cientos de actos catas y shows.
El premio a la innovación fue para el Roti de cochinillo de Cárnicas Tabladillo (Segovia), La despensa de Palacio de Estepa (Sevilla) obtuvo el reconocimiento por la mejor caja conmemorativa de la primera vuelta al mundo. Los chips de cecina de Cecinas Pablo se llevó el premio al a versatilidad y el Pisto ecológico de Cascajares, de Dueñas (Palencia) se alzó como el premio al mejor producto ecológico. Y Gabriel Lucas, de Baleares es el nuevo campeón de sumilleres en España
Aquí va un catálogo con otras novedades y propuestas interesantes y de calidad.
1- Grupo Yllera, con los vinos del enólogo de Petrus
La Bodega de Curiel del Duero (Valladolid) ha aprovechado la feria para presentar a la crítica especializada los nuevos vinos elaborados bajo la dirección de Jean-Claude Berrouet, mítico responsable de Petrus, uno de los vinos más exclusivos del mundo: Sacó más de 40 añadas del vino del vino del Pomerol. Son el Vivaltus 2016 y La Fleur Vivaltus 2016, vinos sedosos y con un corte distinto al de la bodega, que pudieron catarse en la feria junto a los hermanos Marcos y Carlos Yllera. También presentaron un blanco de albillo real muy interesante.
2- Innovachef, del tartar de cigala al brick de chistorra
Álex Patulle, el inquieto socio fundador de Innovachef, con un catálogo de mucha profundidad, variedad y calidad, recibía en su stand con un tartar de cigala de La Coruña que es cosa fina, unos brick de chistorra que entraban solos a mediodía y canapés variados. Innovachef es fabricante y distribuidor de gastronomía selecta para la restauración, Un servicio integral de excelencia que incluye además de entradas de nivel, carnes, pescados, ahumados, productos confitados a baja temperatura o postres. Es un modelo de éxito que ha ido abriéndose paso en el mercado superando con mucho la catalogación por gamas de este tipo de servicios.
3- Caviar Caspian pearl, el mejor del mundo
El que pasa por ser el mejor caviar del mundo, el Caspian Pearl, exhibía poderío en su expositor con el presidente de la compañía Goirdaz Mehdikhani al frente. Durante muchos años esta marca fue la única autorizada para importar caviar iraní a España, de ahí el arraigo en nuestro país. La familia Mehdikhani tiene sus raíces en Rasht y Bandare-Anzali, en la provincia de Guiláb, al norte de Irán, en la orilla sur del Mar caspio, zona de pescadores. Venden caviar en España desde mediados de los setenta y en su catálogo solo hay caviar. Ni más ni menos. Cosa fina y hospitalidad iraní.
4- Cádiz, calidad y variedad
El stand de la Diputación de Cádiz ofrecía una diversidad de productos basados en la excelencia: aceites, los últimos vinos de Barbadillo incluyendo la botella del 200 aniversario de la marca, cuya etiqueta es un delicioso dibujo a carboncillo de la pintora sevillana Carmen Laffon. Los quesos payoyo, de tanto éxito, pilotados por Carlos Ríos y señora, a pie de stand; los riquísimos productos -queso de cabra, aceite y miel de Fuente Ymbro, en San José del Valle, de la familia Maxine Warburg; clásicos de las salazones como La Chanca o Herpac, las ortiguillas y el cazón en adobo de ortiguilllas.com de Los barrios, pasando por los productos de Suralgas de Vejer o el proyecto personalísimo de José Manuel Gómez Fernández, de Huerta de Medina Sidonia: una mermelada de brevas adictiva. Por allí andaba, recibiendo con aroma a preámbulo de caseta de feria, César Saldaña, presidente del Consejo regulador del Jerez, quien departía con esa enciclopedia del vino que se llama Paz Ivison.
5- Serpeska, pescado de Madrid
El escaparate de pescados y mariscos de Serpeska, del grupo Mozos, con su presidente Ángel Mozos, a la cabeza, era un espectáculo. Lo mejor de lo mejor de un grupo que lleva cuarenta años trabajando los mejores pescados y mariscos de España. Mero negro, raores, cabracho, gamba roja, rodaballos, urtas, doradas, gamba blanca. El mar en Madrid.
6- El primer bitter de sidra
Un hallazgo: un bitter elaborado son sidra natural del Lagar de Somarroza en Renedo de Piélagos, (Cantabria) macerado con hierbas, raíces y flores, especias y frutas, sin colorantes ni aromatización artificial. Una burbuja fina y una explosión de sabor en la boca, dulce, fresco y amargo a la vez. Cosa muy fina, como la sidra de la casa. Entre las mejores del mundo.
7- Traen la papa desde Cantabria
Vallucas se llama y es un patata agria frita, con la sal muy justa, y que resulta maravillosa. Aceite de girasol alto oleico, frita en sartén con el grosor perfecto y a poca temperatura apara evitar las acrilamidas. También las tienen con sal del Himalaya, que le da el característico aroma azufrado a huevo frito. Tratan de abrirse camino en el mercado nacional después de copar el cántabro. Merece la pena probarlas.
8- Aceite de Oliva de España
Detenerse en una marca es un ejercicio demasiado parcial cuando disponemos en nuestro país del mejor y mayor catálogos de aceites de oliva del mundo. De norte a sur, aunque con importante primacía de los aceites andaluces, el portfolio de marcas, variedades, tipologías y calidades es abrumador. Además el sector lleva años dando saltos impresionantes en cuanto a la mejora de sus etiquetas y botellas. Sin duda uno de los protagonistas del Salón, con catas por doquier.
9- Los fishsnacks
La industria de los snacks es exigente y competitiva pero la pericia industrial y gastronómica española no le va a la zaga. Las cortezas de crujiente de piel bacalao y merluza de Margus son un hallazgo. Un producto natural que por primera vez en el mundo se vende industrialmente. La empresa Margus, de Elche, ha desarrollado una línea interesantísima de fishsnacks. Los fabrican con y sin picante y en formato palomitas. Sin aditivos, 100% natural. Sin gluten ni colesterol. Y desde luego sostenible: máximo aprovechamiento del pescado. Una alternativa fantástica para acompañar el vermú. Imaginación al poder.
10- Aneto y los cocidos regionales
La prestigiosa marca de caldos en tetrabrik Aneto presentaba todas sus elaboraciones en un expositor en el que ofrecía caldos regionales españoles. Sin duda uno de los de más éxito de la feria. Solo trabajan con ingredientes frescos, naturales, sin aditivos ni conservantes, todo cocinado a fuego lento. Además la cooperativa Mans hace un trabajo de integración muy interesante con los trabajadores que terminan su labor en el huerto.
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