El misterio de la pitaya
La fruta procedente de Centroamérica se abre paso en España y se convierte en tendencia para 2022. Los productores le conceden poderes cuasi prodigiosos a la llamada «fruta del dragón»
a pitaya es el nuevo mango. Sin remedio. Busque en las listas de tendencias gastronómicas del 2022, mire en Instagram (573.000 publicaciones bajo el hastagh #pitaya), en cartas de restaurantes (ensaladas o postres), en comercios de batidos veganos, en el listado de infusiones de moda, en los pokes hawaianos, los zumos detox y en algunas coctelerías mezclado con ginebra, aunque hay que decir que a la ginebra hace tiempo que se le echa cualquier cosa comestible o semicomestible, por lo tanto este último ítem no cuenta. Y, la prueba definitiva del algodón: la pitaya se empieza a popularizar en supermercados y fruterías. El pitayismo is coming. Y con el pitayismo llegan los pitayistas. Hasta no hace mucho era un territorio vedado a ciertas celebrities que siempre se apuntan a todo lo cool. La actriz Gwyneth Paltrow fue una de las primeras. No se sabe si por pura devoción pitayera y gratis et amore o cobrando el diezmo por sus ocho millones de seguidores, pero esta chica de Hollywood que siempre come sano la incluye habitualmente en sus batidos y ensaladas.
Por supuesto que la pitaya forma parte de esas frutas a las que se le conceden poderes taumatúrgicos. Adelgaza, tiene potencia antinflamatoria y antioxidante, es buena para la vista y los dientes, previene las enfermedades respiratorias, las úlceras, la diabetes y las enfermedades cardiovasculares. Ayuda a crear glóbulos rojos. Tiene todas vitaminas y minerales que pueda imaginar. Venga, ¿diga una? También la tiene. Rica en potasio y fibras. Combate el insomnio y el nerviosismo. Y por supuesto mejora el tránsito intestinal. Un chollo, oiga. ¿cómo hemos podido vivir – o sobrevivir- hasta ahora sin comer pitaya? Es curioso: todos los medios, influencers de la cosa, portales foodies y aficionados sin graduación repiten y amplían la lista de beneficios saludables de la fruta, que nadie niega apriorísticamente. Pero ¿de dónde sale esa lista? ¿Quién la ha testado? ¿son los mismos equipos científicos que aseguran cíclicamente que ni la cerveza ni el pan engordan? Cuando ocurren estos fenómenos la pregunta sin resolver es siempre la misma: ¿Cómo ha ocurrido esto? En todo caso, los gobiernos autonómicos deberían incentivar el consumo de pitaya para reducir las listas de espera hospitalarias.
La piyata, o pitahaya, o pitajón o yaurero o warakko, es una fruta originaria de Centroamérica, aunque en realidad la encuentra en casi toda América Latina y buena parte del sudeste asiático. Técnicamente es una cactácea (de la familia de los cáctus) sin espinas. Carnosa y suculenta. Dulce y con semillas que aportan una textura especial. Es una prima lejana del higo chumbo, que también viene del cactus. Por fuera tienen una hechura rara: así como un mix entre una chirimoya espinosa pero sin pinchos y una alcachofa con sus capas de hojas, grandullona y muy llamativa. Y entre todas la variedades -hay más de 600 especies- destacan tres: una que es rosa por fuera y blanca por dentro con las semillas negras; otra igualmente rosada en el exterior pero con la parte carnosa comestible de color fucsia; y una tercera, amarilla por fuera y blanca por dentro. La pulpa de la amarilla es más dulce y sabrosa que la de la roja, más insípida. Cada árbol produce unas 300 pitayas y cada hectárea soporta unos 800 árboles. Dicen que la fruta crece jugosa incluso en condiciones de sequía. Se alimenta de la humedad de la corteza de los árboles: durante el día se deshidrata con el sol y por la noche se abre y aromatiza la zona. Le llaman también la fruta del dragón o el oro rosa. La pitaya, a lo que se ve, lo aguanta todo. Como nosotros, que cada cierto tiempo tenemos que ponernos al día con los exotismos frutales y frutas muy in.
Las de Costa Rica y Nicaragua son deliciosas y llegan a Europa entre julio y diciembre. Entre enero y junio suelen provenir de Vietnam. Y hay algún variedad tailandesa que se vende todo el año en España. En nuestro país se cultivan experimentalmente en un centro dependiente del CSIC en la zona subtropical de Málaga, donde se trabaja ya con éxito el mango, el chirimoyo, la lúcuma, la guanábana, el lichi, el marcauyá o la carambola.
Es una fruta muy bonita, exótica y llamativa. Ovoide, escamosa, perecedera y procedente de una flor hermafrodita. Si la corta por la mitad y la observa bien podría parecer un reloj del Museo de Arte Moderno de Nueva York. Pero ¿qué fue antes, el huevo o la pitaya? Por si acaso, ponga una en su vida. Su salud y los exportadores de pitayas se lo agradecerán.
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