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Catar pegados sí es catar

El concurso de catas por parejas de Vila Viniteca cumple 14 años con 240 inscritos y una bolsa de 40.000 euros. Un desafío para narices finas y entrenadas

ay quien ha hecho profesión de la impostura en el mundo del vino, adornándose con floridas descripciones y pontificando sobre cualidades que se ocultan a la nariz de la inmensa mayoría de los humanos, mortales incapaces de reconocer tanta poesía en un aroma. Pero el concurso de catas por parejas que organiza desde hace 14 años Vila Viniteca está diseñado y pensado para gente que, de verdad, puede acreditar profundos conocimientos vinícolas. Como los trabajos de Hércules (aunque fueron doce), 240 catadores (120 parejas) van a enfrentarse a la delicada tarea de testar a ciegas siete vinos y tratar de identificar siete ítems relacionados con cada uno de ellos. Este concurso, reconocido internacionalmente, pone a prueba los verdaderos conocimientos. Hace falta realmente una nariz fina y muchas horas de bebercio, sabiduría vinícola, visitas a bodegas y estudio para estar a la altura.

Catar vinos es un divertimento estupendo, especialmente si no se tienen más pretensiones que la de disfrutar y tratar de comprender algunas cosas en torno a la viticultura. Hay cursos de catas por doquier, en los que puede aprender algunos conceptos básicos que le ayudarán a disfrutar más del vino. Hacerlo profesionalmente requiere reflexión, experiencia, conocimiento, concentración y sensibilidad. Catar por parejas tiene un disfrute añadido: compartir, contrastar, negociar, consensuar y decidir. Y después está la metafísica del vino y sus pensamientos profundos asociados. Pero ese es otro tema.

La inscripción al concurso de este 2022 se completó en solo cinco minutos, tras un año en barbecho por el covid. Entre los participantes hay un mix de profesionales del sector (sumilleres, bodegueros, viticultores, enólogos, propietarios de wines bar) y aficionados con muchos kilómetros de bodegas en la suela de los zapatos. Muchos de ellos practican durante todo el año siguiendo las normas del concurso para afrontar el reto. “Algunos años prácticamente no hemos hecho nada para prepararnos y se nos ha dado muy bien, pero este año sí estamos entrenando más. Nos hemos centrado y catamos por separado. Pero antes que nada, somos amantes del vino”, explican Delia Baeza, propietaria del bar de vinos La Fisna, en Madrid, y su pareja, David Villalón, de Angelita, otro establecimiento de referencia de la capital para los aficionados al vino. Ambos han participado cinco veces en el concurso. Dos veces han quedado en segundo puesto y otras tres pasaron a la final. A su juicio, se trata de un reto muy complicado, en el que además de el conocimiento también interviene la suerte: “Es muy difícil. Consideramos que hay un componente de suerte, puedes estar más inspirado esa mañana o haber catado recientemente algunos de los vinos, o conocer especialmente bien esa bodega…la suerte influye. Aunque si hemos quedado dos años segundo y otros tres hemos llegado a la final suponemos que hay algo más que suerte”, sonríen.

Las 240 personas que se inscribieron aspiran a la gloria y a la bolsa: 40.000 euros en premios, de los que 30.000 se los lleva la pareja vencedora. Es el concurso de este tipo con mayor dotación económica. Para alzarse con el triunfo hay que sumar más puntos que el contrario. Los puntos se obtienen a través de cada uno de los elementos que han de identificar: el país de procedencia del vino (1 punto), la zona de origen (1 punto), la Denominación de Origen (2 puntos), la variedad de uva (3 puntos), la añada (3 puntos), la bodega o el elaborador (3 puntos) y la marca (2 puntos). Los vinos se sirven sin decantar y en copas Riedel. Solo diez parejas se clasifican para la gran final, donde catan otros siete vinos. En el jurado hay personalidades relacionadas con el mundo del vino como Xandra Falcó, Fernando Guricharri, José Peñín, Juan Muñoz o Jordi Segura, quienes además de hacer la cata en las mismas condiciones que los concursantes, tienen que valorar también los comentarios y observaciones que cada pareja escribe en la ficha de cata. ¿Cree que es fácil? En un almuerzo reciente con algunos de los más acreditados críticos de vino de España en la mesa, no hubo manera de identificar, entre todos los participantes, más que dos o tres dimensiones sobre un total de siete vinos.

Quim Vila y Siscu Martí, propietarios de Vila Viniteca, una de las distribuidoras de vino de referencia, crearon el concurso hace catorce años. Desde entonces se celebra en Barcelona o Madrid de forma alterna. “Este concurso es una de las muchas maneras de compartir y disfrutar el vino con amigos. Acercarte a la copa sin prejuicios, intentar acertar el origen, la variedad y la añada, para finalmente tener que llegar a un consenso con tu pareja de cata, es uno de los factores que lo hacen tan apasionante y divertido”, afirma Vila. Coinciden Delia y David: “Hacer algo juntos es lo principal, es una experiencia diferente, más divertida, y nos permite medirnos un poco de cara a nuestros conocimientos y nuestra capacidad de actualización. Catamos cada vino por separado y después ponemos en común las conclusiones. Muchas veces la opinión de tu pareja modifica tu punto de vista, tienes que ceder”. El domingo 13 de marzo se celebrará la cata en la Casa LLotja de Mar de Barcelona.

Una de las dificultades que aprecian los expertos es cuando el vino que catan refleja menos el terruño (terroir para los franceses) debido a la intervención en bodega: “Los que más torturan son los vinos donde la enología esta muy presente, con una barrica en exceso, sobremaduraciones, intervenciones en bodega, demasiada madera, porque no te dejan ver lo que hay detrás. Complican la identificación.  A veces hay terroir pero esta tapado por la vinificación”, lamenta la pareja de catadores.


La ultima edición, en 2020, enfrentó a los clasificados para la final a estos siete vinos: Ca´del Bosco Annamaria Celementi 2010 Franciacorta DOGC; Rovellats Gran Reserva Nature (2013) DO Cava; Gutiérrez de la Vega Casta Diva cosecha dorada (2018) DO Alicante; Artífice Llanito Perera 2017. Ycoden Daute Isora; Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru (2014) Bourgogne; Abel Mendoza Jarrarte joven (2019) DOCa Rioja; y Ao Yun 2014 Sangri-La, China. “Del vino chino solo dijimos que tenía enjundia, que era un vino importante, pero no teníamos ni idea de donde era”, admite Delia Baeza. En cualquier caso, aficionados, ya tienen siete pistas para empezar a practicar. Mucho ánimo.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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