El pan y la barbarie
La historia del pan va ligada a su sentido religioso, a motines y revoluciones, a la cultura de cada país y, ahora una vez más, a una guerra en Europa
(Este no es un artículo muy goloso. Es una propuesta para mirar los horrores de la guerra a través del pan)
l pan en la mesa. Desde Jesucristo, toda la iconografía representa el momento de compartir el pan como el ritual más puro de la convivencia, la amistad, la solidaridad y la hospitalidad. Dar el pan y comer de la misma hogaza es una invitación a un mundo mejor y en paz. El pan es el producto de la tierra que reparte alegría y, además, un símbolo sagrado para muchas religiones. Igual da que sea horneado o el pan ácimo de los judíos -sin levadura- que comen la víspera de la Pascua para recordar la noche del éxodo. O el pan prophera de la Iglesia Ortodoxa, que procede de los recortes de las piezas que se consagran. San Pablo dijo aquello de “siendo muchos somos un solo pan”.
El grano germinó las civilizaciones. Posiblemente el hecho más relevante para la humanidad fue el descubrimiento de la agricultura y la domesticación de los animales. A partir de ahí, sembrando y comiendo grano, con sus súper poderes nutritivos, germinaron las civilizaciones. Existen pruebas arqueológicas de que en la prehistoria, hace 75.000 a.c., se machacaban semillas con agua y se cocían formando algo parecido a una rudimentaria torta. Pero no fue hasta 15.000 años a.c. cuando lo que llamamos pan no se incorporó a la dieta de la humanidad, comenzando por Europa. Excavaciones de aquella época en Suiza han sacado a la luz instrumentos para moler y amasar. Y fue en Mesopotamia hace casi diez mil años cuando se hizo lo más parecido a lo que hoy conocemos como pan: utilizaban varias harinas (trigo, centeno, cebada, avena e incluso de lentejas) que molían entre dos grandes piedras. Hacia el 2.500 a.c. en Egipto el pan aún era ácimo, muy basto. Aunque un siglo después empezaron a utilizar la levadura y a separar la cascarilla del grano de trigo. En la Grecia clásica se eleva a categoría de arte, como recoge Atheneo de Naúcratis en El banquete de los eruditos y serían los romanos quienes convertirían el pan en una industria: el emperador Trajano organizó el gremio general de panaderos y molineros, lo que algunos historiadores consideran el primer sindicato de la historia.
Algo curioso: en 1912 un ingeniero, joyero, relojero e inventor norteamericano llamado Otto Frederick Rohwedder patentaría la primera máquina para cortar el pan en rebanadas. Y después, otro ingenio mecánico para envasarlo. Estaba inventando el pan de molde.
Desde entonces el pan se ha autoempoderado y ha pasado de ser un objeto básico de primera necesidad a un producto capaz de elevarse hasta cotas de refinamiento impresionantes. Con variedades, elaboraciones y uso de ingredientes nunca vistas. Sin dejar de ser el alimento indispensable en cada mesa.
Cada país con el suyo. Quien lo lleva lo entiende. La base es siempre la misma, pero las fuentes culturales y sobre todo la despensa ofrecen un recetario nutrido y variado de panes en cada país. En muchos países musulmanes cocinan el pan de pita para días de fiesta, con muchas subvariedades, como el shrak, en todo el levante. Los judíos sirven el viernes por la noche el challah, con una masa enriquecida con huevo y mantequilla. En muchos países de América latina (Ecuador, Perú…) se hornea la hallulla (una especie de bollo de fiestas), o la marraqueta, que incorpora manteca entre los ingredientes (Chile, Bolivia…). Los suecos devoran el día de Santa Lucía la lussekatt, que se aromatiza con azafrán, los franceses , además de su celebérrima baguette, elaboran un pan llamado fougasse como parte de los trece postres que simbolizan a Jesucristo y los doce apóstoles. Los griegos dibujan una cruz cristiana en la superficie de su christopsomo y los bávaros comen el hutzellbrot (con especias, frutas y frutos secos) cada navidad. Por citar algunos más: la focaccia italiana (aceite de oliva virgen extra, levadura de cerveza, sal y azúcar, entre otros ingredientes), el baozi (o pan bao) chino, que hacen cocidos al vapor y relleno. El Naan de la India o el Simit de Turquía. No se complique: si parece pan, lleva harina y agua, y sabe como el pan, es que es pan.
Motines de subsistencia. La historiografía recoge bajo esta denominación las protestas populares que se producían entre el siglo XV y el XIX ante el desabastecimiento de productos básicos. Con el pan siempre en el centro. Las malas cosechas, las guerras, la falta de un sistema de producción, intercambio y comercialización que permitiera garantizar la continuidad de la cadena alimentaria provocaba trágicas hambrunas que terminaban en revueltas sangrientas. Aquellas protestas sociales desencadenaban siempre consecuencias políticas. Los disturbios del pan en Francia terminaron en la Toma de la Bastilla, en 1789. Víctor Hugo, en Los Miserables, cuenta la tremenda historia, basada en un hecho real, de Jean Valjean, perseguido durante años por el inspector Javert, por robar una hogaza de pan en pleno invierno de miseria y desabastecimiento. Por entonces, los ricos comían pan blanco y blando; los pobres se conformaban con un pan negro basto y duro de centeno al que los panaderos añadían desde serrín hasta cortezas de árboles. En 1.650 el Imperio ruso sufrió el Motín de Novgorod por el precio del pan, como en España en Córdoba dos años después o el Motín de los gatos en Madrid. Los motines del pan de Boston a comienzos del XVIII, o los motines de Egipto y Marruecos, en la década de los setenta del siglo XX son solo algunos ejemplos del efecto mariposa del precio o la escasez del pan en cada mesa. Dos investigadores chilenos, Pastrana y Threlfall, escribieron un ensayo de referencia que analiza cómo se le movió el suelo bajo los pies al gobierno de Allende y sobrevino el golpe de Pinochet. “Pan, techo y poder”, se llama el ensayo.
Ucrania, el pan, los datos: Ucrania, invadida salvajemente por Rusia, es conocida como el gran granero de Europa, una condición que era posiblemente desconocida para la mayoría de ciudadanos. Junto a Rusia, son países claves en la distribución mundial de materias primas básicas. España, que es un país que consume más cereales de los que produce, importa el 30% del maíz desde Ucrania y el 17% del trigo, el 15% de las leguminosas de grano y el 60% del aceite de girasol. En enero de 2019 la tonelada de trigo blanco costaba 202 euros. En enero de este año costaba ya 302 euros. Y el trigo duro se sitúa ya por encima de los 500 euros. La subida imparable y tremenda de precios, que aún no se ha repercutido del todo al cliente, se notará en breve en el precio del pan, recordándonos la brutalidad de la guerra. Una metáfora de las barbaries que a lo largo de la historia han tenido, demasiadas veces, al pan como símbolo de la injusticia y el horror. Definitivamente, a los guionistas del siglo XXI se les ha ido la mano.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Magnífica, ilustrativa y pedagógica lección sobre la historia del pan.
Siempre se aprende algo nuevo contigo, querido Antonio.
Un fuerte abrazo.
No puedo vivir sin el pan. Me encanta buscar panaderías y probar. Antonio siempre aprendo de ti. Abrazos
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