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Córdoba, donde la taberna se hace memoria

El libro Tabernas del Casco Histórico de Córdoba es la explicación de por qué existen ciudades que tienen alma mientras otras solo tienen banda ancha

Saben qué es una smart city? Una ciudad que ama, cuida y prestigia a sus tabernas. Como Córdoba, una de las ciudades más bellas que existen, que colecciona establecimientos únicos, centenarios y modernos, en los barrios periféricos y en el centro, grandes y pequeñas, pero todas con alma y vino. Con identidad. Con sabor aunque sean recientes. Auténticas y profundas, con una cortina flanqueando el paso para ocultar la sala del mucho e impiedoso calor que pega en la ciudad de los califas desde que abril se escabulle y doblan los azahares, que son un visto y no visto, como el mito andaluz de su fugaz primavera.

Es esta una ciudad que ha sabido conservar este patrimonio antropológico, lo cuál dice mucho de sus habitantes. Las tabernas, los cementerios y los mercados de abastos distinguen a unas ciudades de otras. Lo que no encuentre en uno de esos emplazamientos no lo busque porque no existe. Son precisos los versos de Miguel Salcedo, cronista oficial de la ciudad de Córdoba: “Tras la cortina gris de gruesa lona/la piquera, el rumor, la sombra interna / y el aroma, nos abren la taberna/ y el prodigio vinario se corona” que remata arriba: “y el espacio, recinto prodigioso /con la mística paz que da el reposo / pone un nuevo milagro en nuestra vida”.


Igual los puristas de la cosa de las smarts cities no van a estar muy de acuerdo con esta interpretación libérrima de qué es una ciudad inteligente. Tendrán sus motivos, pero una ciudad que entiende el significado profundo de estos templos del compartir la vida tiene mucho ganado. Igual le falta banda ancha, pero le sobra saber vivir. Córdoba es tan caudalosa en memoria, en yuxtaposición de culturas y religiones, sobre todo en la religión del día a día, y tiene un concepto tan ancho de la ciudad que ha convertido una sencilla taberna en un monumento a la convivencia y la identidad, como sus patios. Los cordobeses y sus tabernas se retroalimentan en ese rito fundacional, como Rómulo y Remo mamando de la ubre de la loba capitolina. Tal es el cúmulo de tabernas, que es casi obligado tratar de identificar y actualizar la oferta tabernaria cada cierto tiempo, máxime en estos tiempos en los que el Covid se ha cobrado insignes víctimas entre los locales históricos de las ciudades.


Es lo que ha hecho Manuel María López Alejandre, hijo y nieto de bodegueros, escritor y divulgador del vino andaluz, ingeniero técnico y enólogo. Las Tabernas del casco histórico de Córdoba es un trabajo fundamental para profundizar en el eterno mundo de la taberna cordobesa. López Alejandre ha censado, investigado y contado con detalle y alma hasta 116 tabernas en 12 barrios de la ciudad. Cada una con su historia, sus singularidades y su oferta de tapeo y bebercio. La taberna es el punto de reunión más antiguo que tiene el hombre y siempre en torno a una copa de vino, igual que en otras ciudades. Salir de trabajar e irte a hablar un rato con los amigos a relajarte antes de llegar a casa, esa tertulia, el intercambio de opinión, ese rato de bienestar solo es posible en una taberna”, explica el autor, quien recuerda cómo en sus tiempos de estudiante en Valladolid, al encontrarse cerrada la cocina de la residencia, acudía a la taberna Caracristo de la ciudad pucelana: “Con vino de Toro y sangre en tomate me aliviaba el hambre y me sentía como en casa”. La taberna como cordón umbilical. Siempre Proust.


Las hay modernas y están las clásicas de toda la vida, las que conservan los anaqueles de madera –algunos son de caoba-, mostrador de mármol –“las ha respetado bien el tiempo: en muchas no ha entrado ni el plástico ni el acero inoxidable”-, sus veladores con sillas de madera y la cortina a la entrada, esa sutil frontera que salvaguarda el misterio interior además de tener un doble sentido práctico: “El cortinaje tenía una doble finalidad: proteger del calor exterior y evitar la entrada de moscas. Hoy siguen dándole encanto a muchas tabernas. Es un elemento clásico. En algunas hay ventiladores, pero poco más”.

El paseo por esa Córdoba de la amistad y la tertulia – que se mantienen bien vivas- podría comenzar por alguna como el Mesón de la Luna, donde un azulejo a la entrada fecha su fundación en 1846 y una puerta al fondo de la taberna da acceso al Callejón del vino. Es de estilo clásico, con el mostrador de madera claveteado, artesonados en el techo, el zócalo de azulejos y mesas de latón. El salón, que fue la bodega de la casa, hace hoy la función de comedor. En su día fue un afamado rincón flamenco donde se exhibían cantando José Castellano alias el Séneca, José Montilla El rubio y Manuel Arango a la guitarra.

El recorrido podría continuar hacia el barrio de San Miguel y la taberna El pisto, fundada en 1880, con una decoración que según el autor prácticamente mantiene su identidad original. Allí reina el rabo de toro, las albóndigas, los callos, las croquetas, las manitas de cerdo o el jamón ibérico de la Sierra de Córdoba. Dice Manuel que quizás “sobre una de sus mesas habló pausadamente el padre de Manolete con Conejito de Córdoba o se tomó unas copas Julio Romero de Torres mientras pintaba a lápiz sobre el mármol bellos retratos femeninos que el camarero madrugador borraba a la mañana siguiente”.

Y una más: La fuenseca, gobernada Históricamente por Emilio Álvarez, ya fallecido, y hoy con su nieto al frente. Una casa centenaria que se alzó sobre los restos de la ermita de los Reyes. Allí se celebró la primera misa tras la toma de Córdoba por San Fernando. Una taberna con historia: Felipe II la reedificó, pues había caído en el olvido. La fuenseca funciona hoy como centro cultural y centro de tertulias taurinas y flamencas, que marcan la identidad del establecimiento. La taberna exhibe una interesante colección de fotos y recuerdos, la mayoría dedicados. Desde Hemingway, Lagartijo, Antonio Ordóñez, Manolete o Perico Delgado. El vino que sirven es de Bodegas Sillero, de La Rambla, un jamón del Valle de los Pedroches y un queso que quita el hipo. “Abro cuando llego /cierro cuando me voy / si vienes y no estoy / es que no hemos coincidido”, decía el tabernero Emilio Álvarez, que no siempre se ajustaba a los horarios habituales de estos establecimientos.


El escritor cordobés Antonio Gala honra con su memoria las tabernas de su tierra: “Mi adolescencia en Córdoba transcurrió desde el libro a las tabernas. Ellos fueron los frutos del espíritu Santo para mí: mi caleidoscopio y mi Catarinita muda; mi tentación y mi Atalaya. Los primeros amores indecisos nacían en las tabernas, en su respetuosa soledad acompañada, en su naturalidad de cada cual a lo suyo, en la sigilosa ceremonia de compartir el vino y el olor y el anochecer. No he vuelto a ellas, ni en Córdoba ni en ningún otro lugar. Temo que una adolescencia sin tabernas tiene que ser muy triste”. En Córdoba hay alegría, dentro de cada taberna, donde aguarda el vino, la conversación y buena parte del alma de una ciudad.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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