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El insondable misterio del primer buche

La cerveza reina en el verano español: somos los segundos consumidores del mundo. De la decepción juvenil a la adicción adulta, una vez que se entiende te acompaña toda tu vida. 

omo si fuera un rito iniciático, el primer buche de la cerveza te reencuentra con los placeres de la vida elevándote a un paraíso soñado. Es vivificador y eterno. Sacia la ansiedad y normaliza tus constantes vitales cuando llevas más tiempo del que sería prudencial soñando con esa cerveza. Si a usted no le gusta la cerveza ni lo intente, no lo va a entender. Pero si le gusta, no hace falta explicarle nada. Usted es uno de los nuestros, como señala ese sticker de moda. La espuma que remata la copa te excita. La copa calada de frío hasta el fondo es adictiva, invita a agarrarla con delicadeza por el talle. El vidrio suda. El color te promete una vida mejor y lo bueno es que sabes que esa promesa tiene recompensa inmediata. Pocos placeres colman tanto como ese primer buche. La sola presencia de la cerveza espumeante y helada aguardando en la barra, recién servida, se basta para liberar dopamina en el cerebro, lo que activa el llamado circuito de la recompensa. En definitiva, una cosa que tenemos las personas instalada en el disco duro de nacimiento y que nos invita a repetir una y otra vez porque sabemos que nos vuelve locos. Ven que todo tiene una explicación científica, que no es que usted tenga malos hábitos. Y así ocurre desde que los sumerios fermentaron la primera birra en el sur de Babilonia hace ya unos años.

Las autoridades sanitarias deberían prescribir el primer trago -esta es una propuesta moderada- entre junio y agosto. De hecho, el primer viernes de agosto de cada año se celebra el Día Internacional de la cerveza. Al menos deberían recetar el primero. Porque el segundo buche nunca es igual. También tiene su aquel, pero no es lo mismo. El primero te arrebata, el segundo es más saciante. El primero te enamora, a partir de segundo se impone la rutina. Los segundos gozan de un desmesurado inmerecido prestigio. Como la vida misma. 


Ya en plena canícula, la cerveza es la reina de los mediodías. De grifo o en botella, pocos se resisten a sus encantos. Y eso que es una bebida rara. Amarga, no especialmente agradable al paladar. En teoría, claro. Cuando eres joven no te gusta, prefieres lo dulce. No entiendes nada porque en general hay pocos productos alimenticios amargos y no estamos acostumbrados, aunque con el tiempo educas el paladar: léase cerveza. Los lúpulos tienen la culpa: son las flores secas y las cortezas de la planta del Lúpulo, una especie de origen chino que se cultiva casi en exclusiva en la provincia de León. De ahí viene el amargor. Churchill lo clavó: “A mucha gente no le gusta el sabor de la cerveza pero no es más que un prejuicio”. Si cuando eres jovencito además de ese rechazo gustativo encima te la sirven a la temperatura inadecuada, el ayuntamiento es un desastre total. El primer encuentro juvenil con la cerveza siempre es frustrante. Con los años, traspasada la barrera inexplicable que te separaba de la hija favorita de la cebada, no entiendes cómo ocurrió aquel gatillazo, ese triste desencuentro entre tú y ella. Y para olvidar te entregas para siempre a la religión del primer trago de la cerveza.

España es un país muy cervecero. Según el Índice Mundial de la Cerveza, en 2021 España fue el segundo país consumidor de cerveza del mundo con 417 cervezas por habitante. Solo superado por la república checa, que alcanzó la cifra de 468. Otro dato, en este caso del portal británico Money.co indica que hay cuatro ciudades españolas entre las diez más cerveceras de Europa: Madrid, Sevilla, Málaga y Barcelona. La campeona es Praga, seguida por un empate entre Varsovia y Cracovia. Y detrás, Frankfurt, Munich y Berlín.  


Al menos hay tres asuntos claves a los que usted tiene que atender para disfrutar de una buena cerveza: el tipo de cerveza, la temperatura de servicio y la copa:  

Tipos: El mercado de la cerveza ofrece tanta variedad como consumidores hay. Es casi imposible que no encuentre la suya. Suelen ser de cebada habitualmente, aunque los alemanes y holandeses también las fabrican con trigo. Aquí van algunas. La más habitual es la Lager, en torno a 4º de alcohol. Clara, y suele servirse muy fría. También conocida como “cerveza de la sed”. Dentro de las lager hay variedades como la pilsen, la lager especial o la lager extra, en función de las maltas que se empleen. Las Ales, para las que se emplean levaduras de alta fermentación. Ofrecen sabores más complejos, más dulces y presentan cierta turbidez. Afrutadas, más aromáticas y complejas. Cerveza Negra: las hay de dos tipos. La Stout (muy oscuras y hechas con malta tostada; y la Porter, más potentes, cremosas y con aroma a cacao y café. Trapenses o de Abadía: elaborada en los monasterios trapenses de Bélgica, son tipo ale con una segunda fermentación en botella. Alcanzan hasta 10º. Son preciosas:  bronceadas, con espuma tostada, muy persistentes. Suelen tener notas a caramelo.

Temperatura: a cada una la suya. Cuanto más ligera, más fría, sin llegar al punto de congelación en el que pierde todo el sabor. Podrían estar entre los 3º y los 10º. Las Ales entre 7º y 10º. Las negras y las de Abadía, entre 7º y 13º. Congelar las copas en una práctica indeseable: la jarra suele coger olores ajenos, la escarcha agua la cerveza y encima te quedan flotando trocitos como de diminutos icebergs que son bastante desagradables.

Copa: La caña española es imbatible. Tiene el tamaño justo para que no se caliente. Su limitado tamaño se soluciona tomándose unas pocas. La pinta es la medida inglesa (590 cl) y la jarra es más usada en Alemania o Estados Unidos. Hay una pieza preciosa, la jarra Stein, que suele ser de porcelana, madera y a veces con incrustaciones de plata: tiene bisagra y una palanca que accionada con el pulgar abre la tapa. Suele tener ya un uso más decorativo que funcional. Copa o cáliz: redondas con talle, algo gruesas: ideales para las cervezas ligeras. La copa teku: es una preciosidad, con la panza ancha y la boca estrecha. Fantástica para degustar una cerveza. El vaso stange o de tubo: es el vaso de toda la vida. No le dé vueltas y rechácelo porque es un horror tomarse una cerveza ahí.


Si se toma un poco de interés, la experiencia será plena. Si quiere añadirle algo de erudición leáse Maestros cerveceros (Planeta DeAgostini) o La cerveza…poesía líquida. Un manual para cervesiáfilos, de Steve Huxley, un tipo de Liverpool que además de licenciarse en lenguas clásicas hizo buenas prácticas en un pub de su barrio, donde experimentó todo lo que pudo. Y en cualquier caso, súmese a Jack Nicholson: “La cerveza es la maldita mejor bebida del mundo”.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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