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El taco: misterio, praxis y picante

El libro Taco loco aborda con detalle ese prodigio callejero llamado taco, esencia del México más popular

l taco articula México, pringa por igual a todas las clases sociales, habla de un país más que cualquier tratado de historia y, además, es un monumento a la sencillez, la sabiduría gastronómica y un canto al esmero. Pero no se confundan: no todo el mundo sabe comerse un taco. Tiene su ciencia. Hay que saber armarlo, con el sellado básico para que no se desparramen los ingredientes pero sin convertirlo en un flamenquín que asfixie al guacamole o la carnita. Es la sofisticación de la sencillez de un platillo que según la historiografía gastronómica hunde sus raíces en las tortitas de maíz del México prehispánico; aunque según las leyendas populares, en tiempos de Moctezuma ya se calentaban las tortitas en una piedra; y según se recoge en la Historia Verdadera de la Conquista de la Nueva España, de Bernal Díaz del Castillo, Hernán Cortes fue el primero en organizar una taquiza, que no es más que un banquete a base de tacos. Este dato no debe tener buena digestión en el México actual, me temo, aunque el autor fue uno de los participantes en la conquista.

Jonas Cramby, periodista y escritor gastronómico, ha cincelado un fresco sobre la impar geografía del taco en Taco Loco (Planeta Gastro). Propone un viaje, casi definitivo, a través del significado del taco en un país tan excesivo en todo como es México, pero sobre a través de su praxis, alargando su esfuerzo didáctico hasta las fórmulas del secreto del platillo para que usted pueda hacerlo en casa con rigor y disfrute. “Ir a México y comer solo en los restaurantes de playa de las zonas turísticas es como visitar el Louvre y limitarse a admirar los carteles de prohibido fumar”, dice Cramby, quien introduce al lector “en los mandamientos sagrados “ del picoteo mexicano con tres reglas sencillas: elegir el lugar donde haya mucha gente, vigilar que la persona que maneja el dinero no sea la misma que hace el taco y, en tercer lugar, repetir hasta saciedad. La oferta de tacos callejeros en México es casi interminable. Como ocurre con la presencia de camioneros en las ventas de carretera, observar en qué puestos se arremolina la gente a la espera del taco es un antídoto contra el error.


El taco, como el chile en nogada, el mole o las enchiladas, son el desafío de la autenticidad frente a la imagen distorsionada y globalmente esparcida de la comida tex-mex, en la que un burrito bien puede ser una pizza liada a la mexicana manera made in USA. Pero el taco es sencillo y complejo a la vez. La base es la tortita de maíz o de trigo y se acompaña de queso, carne, verduras o salsas. A partir de ahí, un océano inabarcable de posibilidades. Cramby organiza el libro sobre cinco pilares: las tortillas y las salsas; los antojitos (aperitivo callejero); los tacos propiamente dichos; los dulces y las bebidas. Y regala un capítulo sobre el día de los muertos y su experiencia de tres días enteros en el festival de los muertos de Oaxaca: “He visto a adultos disfrazados de zombis dándole unos sustos a niños de tres años que a un niño europeo lo dejarían postrado en la cama”.

Sostiene Cramby que aunque México “haya aportado al mundo un montón de cosas buenas como el chocolate, los tomates, los cacahuetes, el aguacate, la vainilla, el chile, el tabaco y los hongos alucinógenos, es el maíz y las tortillas lo que hace palpitar el corazón de la cultura culinaria mexicana”. En este episodio encontrará recetas u orientaciones para hacer las tortitas de maíz, las de masa fresca o nixtamal, de trigo o las tostadas, que llevan el maíz frito. Las salsas -de pepino, de piña, de pico de gallo, cruda, aguacate, la salsa verde, la de chipotle, la de chile guajillo, de cebolla morada…- son el alma de taco, la compañera ideal de la tortita. Tiene las recetas exactas siguiendo los patrones populares.

Disfrute los huaraches, garnachas, picadas, chicharrones, totopos, sopes, chalupites, o empanadas y aprenda a hacerlos en el espacio que le dedica a los antojitos callejeros, esa forma tan mexicana de comer en la calle de puesto en puesto y poquito a poquito, rico y variado. De las recetas de tacos, destaquemos al menos tres clásicas. El taco de carnita (con el cerdo en hebras hervido en cazuela con abundante manteca); los tacos de guisados, que el autor relaciona más con el slow food que con la urgencia de un taco callejero; y los más renombrados y extendidos, los tacos al pastor, también conocidos como tacos árabes porque el mexicano incorporó a su acerbo gastronómico la forma de asar la carne de los emigrantes libaneses, a la forma de un kebab. La carne tostada y crujiente del exterior se mezcla con la más jugosa del interior, el chile guajillo y el chile ancho con ajo, comino y canela para el adobo y el remate de la piña asada. La boca agua, sin menospreciar esos otros monumentos que son los tacos de pescado, de lengua o de pollo con mole negro. Es simple: se trata de liar el taco.

Los dulces mexicanos populares son los grandes desconocidos. En Taco Loco puede descubrir la fruta cristalizada (escarchada); las paletas, que son polos caseros con ingredientes naturales como el hibisco, la yema de huevo o la lima; las espléndidas y vistosas calaveras de azúcar (trabajadas con clara de huevo y azúcar); la panela de tres leches; o el chocoflan imposible, un mix entre el flan y la tarta de chocolate con vainilla, mantequilla, yogur y nueces. Y capítulo aparte para los churros, que cruzaron el Atlántico desde España, para incorporar la canela al aterrizar en México.

Y las bebidas. México y sus bebidas, cabrones. El tepache (cerveza casera de piña baja en alcohol) o la michelada (cervezas ácidas, saladas y especiadas) a la que se les incorpora jugo de tomate especiado o salsa chamoy, según el gusto, cubren el espectro refrescante. Pero entrar en harina de los cócteles mexicanos es poner un pie en el infierno y el otro en la gloria, solo depende de la dosis que se autoaplique. La margarita y la paloma, dos clásicos, te introducen en el aperitivo de un capítulo que conduce indefectiblemente al mezcal, ese prodigio artesanal que admite hasta cien agaves y se tuesta en la tierra para que adquiera su sabor terroso y ahumado.  Dicen los mexicanos que el mezcal no se debe tragar, sino besar, “Abre una botella de mezcal. Pon música, Siéntate al sol con un par de colegas. Moja un poco de naranja en sal de gusano. Sorbe. Ríe. Siente como os rodea la fuerza de la vida”, sugiere el autor ofreciendo una receta para la felicidad eterna.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

115 Comentarios

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    Bravo como un taco bien condimentado!!!
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    En el mercado de La Paz una amiga mejicana ha montado una taquerías que merece la pena. Abrazos

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    Como siempre , estupendos , entretenido e ilustrativo en el tema expuesto.

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    El maiz es el corazon de tod mexicano. De los mejores tacos: Taco de sal y salsa con tortillas recien hechas mientras haces cola en la tortilleria. Si son hechas a mano, es como el Nirvana..

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