Los vinos del capitán Nemo
De los hallazgos de botellas procedentes de naufragios al envejecimiento submarino controlado, un negocio en auge
os buceadores profesionales clásicos buscaban tesoros arqueológicos hundidos en el mar. Ánforas, monedas, alguna joya, restos de un pecio. El litoral español ha sido siempre una fuente inagotable para los buzos que costeaban, a veces por afición y otras profesionalmente. Las empresas tipo Odissey, dedicadas a extraer barcos enteros y sus tesoros, jugando siempre al límite de la ley, son otra categoría. Pero entre los hallazgos surgidos de los fondos marinos las botellas de vinos y licores se han convertido en producto de culto. Adquieren precios elevados en las subastas. Christie´s subasto en 2010 una botella de tinto hallada en un naufragio del siglo XVIII en las costas alemanas por 30.000 libras, aunque la casa de subastas advertía de “su cuestionable bebilidad”. El Laboratorio de la Universidad de Dijon, en Borgoña, fijó su embotellado entre 1670 y 1690.
La historia del rescate de botellas hundidas es larga y emocionante. En 1941 un carguero británico, el SS Politician, que se dirigía a Jamaica y Nueva Orleans, naufragó frente las Islas Hébridas exteriores de Escocia. Llevaba mercancía variada: algodón, galletas y 264.000 botellas de whisky. Solo queda una. La rescató el buzo George Currie hace 30 años. Se vendió por un precio astronómico en la Gran Subasta de Whisky de Escocia. Otro grupo de buzos rescataron del fondo del Báltico, a sesenta metros, los restos del Jönköpingm una goleta sueca que fue hundida por un submarino alemán en 1916. En sus bodegas había miles de botellas de champagne Heidsieck de 1907. Y una más, en plena primara guerra mundial, un submarino alemán hundió a torpedazos el Kyros, un buque que traía desde Francia un sustancioso suministro de licores para Nicolás II, quien aún habiendo prohibido el consumo de alcohol en su país, seguía empinando el codo en la soledad de los palacios reales. Cuando en 1999 un grupo de buzos rescató el barco hundido a 77 metros de profundidad, entre Suecia y Finlandia, salieron a la superficie 50 cajas de coñac y 15 de licor de hierbas de De Haartman & CO y de Benedictine. La empresa que lideró la operación es Ocean X, especializada precisamente en rescatar botellas de barcos hundidos.
La experiencia de consumir vinos envejecidos en el mar -o coleccionarlos- aunque no procedan de naufragios ha prendido. En España, como en otros países, hace años que algunas bodegas lo ponen en el mercado. Algunas de ellas, como Elixsea, que trabaja en Roses y Calpe, desde donde exportan vino submarino a la UE y EEUU, surgió tras comprobar sus propietarios -un aficionado al vino y una experta en ciencias del mar, ambos instructores de buceo- cómo unas botellas rescatadas en Tailandia de un barco hundido en 1860 se vendieron por 156.000 dólares. Entre las bodegas que fabrican estos vinos hay algunas con especial prestigio. Es el Frore de Carme Pezium, de Eladio Piñero, un albariño con 15 meses de crianza sobre lías y seis meses en bodega. Después se sumerge a 20 metros en la Ría de Aurosa durante 13 meses. En la Bahía de Plentzia, en Vizcaya, Crusoe Treasure tiene jaulas para miles de botellas. Borja Saraccio, uno de los pioneros en estos procesos, hace varios vinos con variedades más excepcionales. Ha creado para la bodega sus propios ecosistemas submarinos, con centenares de especies marinas.
De norte a Sur. En aguas de Conil de la frontera (Cádiz), Luis Pérez, catedrático de Tecnología de los Alimentos de la Universidad de Cádiz, quien empezó a trabajar con tintos en el marco de Jerez, produce desde 2013 el Garum submarino, un tinto sometido a las temperaturas y mareas atlánticas. Lo crían en barricas y lo envejecen a doce metros de profundidad y 14 grados de temperatura en ánforas de barro, las vasijas que utilizaban las antiguas civilizaciones para transportar el vino y el aceite, además del garum – una suerte de pasta de atún y vísceras de pescado- que da nombre al vino. Pérez tuvo la oportunidad de analizar algunos vinos depositados en ánforas romanas en el litoral gaditano. Comprobó su excelente conservación y decidió lanzarse al proyecto. Uno de los más perseguidos es el Sketch de Raúl Pérez, enólogo de referencia. Un albariño de viñas viejas del Salnés gallego. Fabrica solo unas 600 botellas por cosecha sumergidos tres meses en la Ría de Aurosa a 19 metros. Y uno más, en Canarias, en cuevas de la Montaña de Bellido cerca de la Isla de la Palma, Vinos Tendal produce unas 90.000 botellas al año de tinto, blanco seco y uno dulce.
Lo que no hay es consenso respecto a si los vinos submarinos son de más calidad que los que envejecen en cavas tradicionales. En lo que están casi todos los expertos de acuerdo es en que el vino evoluciona más lentamente bajo el mar, aislado de la luz y el ruido así como de cambios bruscos de temperatura. Las condiciones estables de humedad, presión y gravedad son imposibles de lograr en tierra. Los productores defienden que el vino desarrolla aromas secundarios (los que surgen de la fermentación alcohólica) y terciarios (procedentes de crianzas largas en botella: madera, cuero) más complejos y que se superponen a los primarios (los que proporciona directamente la cepa: fruta, especias, florales y minerales).
Aunque si usted tiene curiosidad por las rarezas y la billetera bien abrigada, puede estar atento a otras oportunidades que surgen en el inagotable mercado del vino. La empresa Space Cargo Unlimited envió hace unos años 12 botellas de Château Pétrus 2000 al espacio para observar cómo inciden las condiciones del espacio en el vino. Algunos expertos que pudieron probarlo aseguraron que el vino había adelantado su envejecimiento unos tres años y ofrecía notas más florales. Solo una botella se puso a la venta. Costó de salida un millón de dólares. Es verdad que se acompañaba de un baúl diseñado ad hoc para albergar la botella espacial y de un sacacorchos fabricado con material de un meteorito. Y se incluía otra botella de la misma añada envejecida en tierra para que el afortunado pudiera comprobar la diferencia entre ambas botellas. Un detalle.
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