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Los paadines, otro canto a Galicia

Luis y Álex Paadin, padre e hijo, embajadores sin embajada del vino gallego, tiran de su bodega privada para compartir con expertos las mejores añadas en catas verticales

os paadines son dos y valen por veinte. Luis Paadin y Alex Paadin, padre e hijo, de 62 y 33 años respectivamente, son dos embajadores sin embajada oficial pero con trabajo diplomático acreditado de muchos años en la difusión, explicación y defensa de los vinos gallegos. Padre e hijo, dos en la carretera. Los cinco continentes se quedan pequeños si se trata de llevar la buena nueva: aún queda mucho vino de Galicia en las bodegas y además está riquísimo. Lo suyo es una historia de amor con el vino gallego.

Luis Paadin, sumiller, profesor de Análisis sensorial y técnico de viticultura y Enología de la Universidad de Vigo es además formador de vinos de Jerez, Cava y Rioja. Por añadidura, tiene concedidos todos los premios y galardones posibles en el mundo vinícola. Cofrade de honor de prácticamente todas las cofradías que existen, conferenciante, escritor, divulgador y catador por medio mundo. Su hijo Álex le sigue en el camino: ingeniero de formación, es formador homologado en las denominaciones de origen más notables, ha ejercido como sumiller, director técnico de los eventos de Galician wines y ha impartido clases magistrales desde Taipei a Londres pasando por Nueva Delhi o México.

Luis Paadin y Alex Paadin

Padre e hijo han escrito un libro maravilloso – Las piedras que hacían vino, viaje por los lagares rupestres de Galicia– que es antropología de la Galicia vitivinícola y editan desde 2005 la guía más reconocida de los vinos, orujos y aguardientes gallegos. La sacan a pulso: no quieren anuncios publicitarios sino que la guía tenga la calidad necesaria para que los aficionados quieran pagar por ella. La guía sale cada año soportada por la colaboración desinteresada de más de dos centenares de ciudadanos, aficionados anónimos, que aportan pequeñas cantidades económicas. Una guía por crowdfounding, un mundo de mecenas encantados de ayudar. Micromecenazgo, que esta es tierra de minifundios. Otro tipo de canto a Galicia.

Por su fuera poco, los Paadines, que llevan la lluvia y el verde con ellos allá por donde van, son de una casta inhabitual: envejecen las añadas de los mejores vinos gallegos para compartirlos con expertos y aficionados cuando llega el momento. Esta misma semana lo han hecho en Madrid, junto a la Bodega Pago de Carraovejas, que adquirió las bodegas de Emilio Rojo. Los Paadin han tirado del fondo de su bodega y pusieron sobre la mesa una cata vertical (desde la añada 2004 a la de 2019) del mejor blanco de la bodega de Rojo. Esos vinos no existen. Solo se pueden conseguir asaltando la bodega de los Paadin. Ni siquiera la bodega de origen conserva las añadas más antiguas. Desde el lunes, quedan solo unos pocos y están donde estaban los mismos que se consumieron.

Curiosamente a Luis Paadin fue el rigor y el conocimiento del mundo de la electrónica lo que le llevó a este mundo. Siendo comercial de productos electrónicos había desarrollado un conocimiento profundo de cada uno de los productos con los que trabajaba. Vamos, que se lo sabía todo. La crisis de comienzos de los noventa se llevó por delante su empleo y decidió montar la primera taberna-vinoteca de A Coruña. Y observó que los comerciales que distribuían el vino lo desconocían todo sobre el producto. “Vendían un vino que era fácil de vender porque tenía mucha calidad, pero poco más”, dice. Esa falta de capacidad técnica para explicar los procesos, el terruño, las añadas, la influencia del clima y las variedades lo animó a profundizar en el mundo del vino, al que llegó relativamente tarde, sobre los 30 años. Decidió formarse y viajar. Viajó mucho, por todo el mundo, tratando de entender qué se hace por ahí, como se trabaja. Ferias, exhibiciones, bodegas, expertos, contactos. Se enganchó para siempre en el mundo del vino, en el que desarrolló un conocimiento enciclopédico y una pasión impar por los vinos de la tierra.


Alex llegó más tarde, aunque a los cuatro años ya pasaba los fines de semana en la taberna-vinoteca viendo descorchar botellas. Siempre quiso dedicarse al vino, pero el padre le pidió que primero se formara en otra disciplina. Estudió una ingeniería pero ya durante la carrera trabajó en el sector de la hostelería como sumiller. Acabada la carrera optó entre una posición como ingeniero que le ofrecía una empresa o montar con su padre su primer gran proyecto: el Salón del vino gallego.  Han pasado los años y sigue con su padre haciendo caminos: consultoría sobre vino para instituciones, editando la guía, participando en paneles de cata prestigiosos, como el mundial de Bruselas. Y catando, seleccionado y envejeciendo vinos que después compartirán en catas verticales. “Llevamos muchos años guardando vino gallego y estudiando su potencial de guarda. No todos los vinos tienen las características necesarias para resistir y mejorar con el paso del tiempo. El vino gallego, sí.  Pepe Formoso, periodista y propietario del hermoso y premiado hotel Bela Fisterra, en la Costa da Morte, amigo de ambos, los define así: «En la tierra de los mil marcos que todos, o casi todos, remen al unísono habría que definirlo como algo más propio de meigas y conjuros que de un milagro. La fórmula del meigallo tiene varios ingredientes: mucho trabajo, pizcas de sabiduría y ¡ excesos de pasión¡ Solo así puedes emocionar a propios y extraños. Y eso,Luis y Álex Paadin lo saben».

Con el acto de Emilio Rojo hemos empezado un ciclo que durará varios años y que tocará todas las denominaciones de origen de Galicia”, explica Álex Paadin.

De la cata del lunes, los expertos salieron encantados. Entre ellos, Pitu Roca, Quim Vila o Santi Rivas de Colectivo decantado. “En una cata vertical se ve perfectamente la línea de la bodega, su coherencia y en el caso de Emilio Rojo no hay vaivenes en el tiempo, hay una línea marcada salvo un punto de inflexión de 2018 afectado porque llovió mucho, pero pruebas quince añadas y compruebas que no hay disonancias”, explican los Paadin.

Quim Vila y Emilio Rojo

El vino gallego es, de hecho, uno de los ejemplos paradigmáticos de la evolución de los vinos españoles en los últimos 20 años. Están los blancos gallegos en la línea de evolución del mercado, que busca vinos más frescos, ligeros, blancos, rosados, espumosos, de trago fácil, que encaja con el estereotipo gallego “aunque obviamente no todos los vinos de nuestra tierra son así” y caminan en la línea del mercado. Durante las dos últimas décadas los vinos de Galicia han multiplicado su precio por cuatro, lo que explica el incremento del valor percibido por los consumidores. Está al nivel de los vinos alemanes, aunque lejos aún de los franceses e italianos.

Los Paadin se sienten “honradamente” embajadores de los vinos de su tierra, aunque sin presunciones ni nombramientos oficiales. “Pero sí tenemos el sentir de que con tanto trabajo a las espaldas representamos a nuestros vinos y lo hacemos con mucho orgullo”. Como dice Luis Paadin, quien considera que “cuando se bebe un vino se bebe la zona y, beber la zona es beber heroísmo y paisaje”, el vino “siempre está, lo que es irrepetible es el momento de compartirlo”.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

153 Comentarios

  1. Ignacio Moreno el octubre 15, 2022 a las 10:15 am

    Cuanta admiración hacia ese padre e hijo que estudian y miman con tanto cariño los vinos de su tierra. Enhorabuena.

  2. Manuel Lòpez el octubre 16, 2022 a las 10:45 am

    Muy buenos mis paisanos.

  3. Luis Domenech el octubre 22, 2022 a las 6:30 pm

    Creo que ahora es el momento de cambiar un conocido dicho que afirma que «De tal palo, tal astilla».
    Referido a los Paadin, yo diría que «De la mejor cepa, el mejor vino».

    SONETO A LOS PAADIN

    La solera de los Paadín
    se nos muestra en su saber.
    El vino no es solo beber,
    es el disfrute sin fin.

    Años llevan ambos dos
    recorriendo los viñedos
    de nuestra verde Galicia
    mostrándonos la delicia

    de caldos blancos y tintos
    poderosos, variopintos,
    apreciados en el mundo.

    Tiene un mérito rotundo
    la labor de estos dos sabios.
    Lo digo yo. Leed mis labios.

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