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Huesos de santo contra zombis

Los dulces de la celebración del día de todos los santos resisten en España como última tradición virgen ante el acoso de Halloween con sus brujas, telarañas y calabazas talladas.

os huesos de santo, en cruz como si fueran el centro de una bandera pirata, y los buñuelos, atrincherados y camuflados con azúcar glas en los expositores de cada confitería, resisten como pueden a la invasión anual de zombis y las brujas. Opacado cada vez más el sentido religioso de la fiesta de todos los santos, las tradiciones españolas también van arrugándose bajo el influjo creciente de los hábitos venidos desde Estados Unidos. Primero fue el Halloween a la española, aunque nadie entendía bien eso de truco o trato. Ni falta que hacía. Después fue el Black Friday y la invasión de ofertas haciendo tambalear al comercio local y multiplicando las compras digitales. Los dulces típicos de las fechas son el último bastión de una fiesta desdibujada por el esnobismo cultural y la potente influencia de la industria audiovisual estadounidense.

Faltan solo unas horas para que las calles de Estados Unidos se llenen de calabazas talladas, que es la continuación de una tradición celta que pretendía alejar a los espíritus que se hacen presentes en la noche del 31 de octubre. Y en su interior se coloca una vela para protegerse de la oscuridad. Ese punto tenebroso de la celebración va emparejado, en realidad, con la concepción de nuestro 1 de noviembre (el día de todos los santos) y el 2 de noviembre (día de los difuntos), que es allende los mares uno de los días mas importantes en el santoral mexicano: jornada de altares de hasta siete niveles (los estadios que ha de atravesar el alma para alcanzar el descanso espiritual), con sus veladoras, copales, bebidas, flores, fotografías, enseres personales del difunto y alimentos.

Pero en España el santoral se reparte entre el día 1, una celebración del calendario cristiano desde el siglo VIII (se recuerda a los muertos piadosos que ya subieron al cielo) y el día 2 (dedicado a las almas que aún están en lista de espera en el Purgatorio pidiendo acceso al paraíso). Y como siempre, en España, la salida de la vigilia -esas fiestas eran de abstinencia y ayuno- siempre celebramos el adiós a las penas comiendo y bebiendo. Igual hay algún país que lo celebra abrazando árboles o corriendo maratones, pero en España, no. Aquí, a la pitanza y el bebercio. Igual que de la cuaresma, se sale con buñuelos, flores fritas con miel, pestiños, panellets y docenas de dulces que la tradición local encumbra y sostiene como el arrope, el calabazate, las gachas o unas sencillas palomitas de maíz con anís.

Los dulces eran en su origen ofrendas para los difuntos: algo del azúcar de la tierra para los ausentes, una forma de endulzar el adiós. El origen de la tradición, popular como todas, ocupaba a castañeros ambulantes y a las abuelas asando los boniatos, esa deliciosa patata dulce infrautilizada en la cocina actual. Las pastelerías humildes fueron fomentando la tradición y ampliando los productos, hasta que las confiterías refinaron el trabajo, le dieron dos vueltas de tirabuzón y alumbraron una golosa y refinada tradición que hoy perdura.

Aquí va una pequeña muestra de los dulces más típicos que podrá consumir estos días.

Huesos de santo: No se sabe si es tibia o peroné, pero es seguro que el santo perdió la pierna en un obrador de pastelería. Una delicia a base de azúcar, almendra molida para el mazapán y yemas de huevo. El relleno tradicional -el tuétano del hueso del santo cojo- era de cidra, crema, yema o batata. Hoy encontrará amplia variedad. Huesos de santo a los dos chocolates. Rellenos de ciruela, coco, mermeladas, nata, trufa, praliné o marrón glacé. Los huesos se han modernizado, para castigo de los traumatólogos clásicos.

Buñuelos de viento: por lo visto en su origen estaban inspirados, dada su liviandad, por las almas que se elevan escapando del purgatorio. Pudiera ser, pero en cualquier caso son un clásico que nadie se salta en estas fechas, sobre todo cuando esos escaparates atestados de bandejas rebosantes aparecen ante uno como una revelación. Harina, levadura, mantequilla, azúcar, huevos y aceite. Por ahí va la fórmula. La masa se hincha al freírla y ofrece una textura fina y adictiva. Con el relleno, pues ocurre algo parecido a lo de los huesos. De los rellenos clásicos a la variedad actual hay un mundo: nata, batata, cidra, crema de lima, trufa y muchos más, colores y tamaños a elegir.

Panellets: Los panellets son un dulce original del Mediterráneo, sobre todo de Cataluña, Valencia y Baleares, pero también de Aragón. Es una elaboración muy antigua. Se bendecían para consumir después de misa. De ahí el origen religioso de los originales: panellets de San Marcos y de la Santa Cruz. Y, dado que la almendra es la base de la elaboración, es posible que en su concepción haya trazas de la repostería árabe. Hoy se encuentran durante todo el año en las confiterías pero lo típico es elaborarlo en estas fechas y consumirlos con castañas asadas y vino moscatel. La receta original utilizaba como base el boniato. Llevan además del boniato y la almendra, huevo, ralladura de limón y una capa de piñones. El dulce se hornea y está exquisito. Se los puede comer por docenas. Los va a encontrar de todos los sabores que quiera: coco, naranja, chocolate, café, de miel, de mermelada de fresa y así hasta el infinito y más allá.

Gachas dulces: Dulce casero que no encontrará en su formato habitual en las confiterías. También conocidas como gallinas en leche o gachas gitanas son muy típicas de Jaén y Córdoba. Se llaman poléa en Almería, farrapes en Asturias o puches en Castilla La Mancha. Sus ingredientes base son muy humildes por lo que todo apunta que comenzaron a elaborarse en tiempos de escasez. La bibliografía gastronómica ya cita su existencia en el medievo, cuando cualquier grano seco como la avena o el centeno servía para hervirlo, cocerlo con agua y leche y colocándole encima lo que hubiera se las comían como una papilla. Los ingredientes imprescindibles son la leche, la harina, el azúcar, las semillas de matalahúva (anís dulce), canela, limón, aceite y sal. Y pan del día anterior. En algunos restaurantes se han reinterpretado consiguiendo postres muy originales sin apartarse del espíritu original de la receta, más o menos, vaya.

Rosquillas fritas: un clásico de las fiestas religiosas, una commodity. Vale para todo. Los niños se derriten por una fuente de rosquillas bien fritas. Cuando más irregulares, más artesanales. Hay algunas hechas con moldes que son más feas, aunque opera la cuestión de gustos. Pero si se nota la huella de la mano del artesano tienda a fiarse más. Huevos, harina, ralladura de limón, aceite de oliva virgen, harina y azúcar para rebozar.

Pestiños: especialmente populares en Andalucía no son exclusivos de estas fechas, pero también. Dicen los historiadores que el origen de estas masas fritas se entremezcla con las tres culturas que se citaron en tierras andaluzas: cristiana, judía y musulmana. Hasta el siglo XVI se empleaba la manteca de cerdo para pasarlos por la sartén, evitando el aceite, considerado entonces alimento propio de judíos a los que su religión prohibía el consumo de carne de cerdo y sus derivados. Aceite de oliva virgen para freírlos, anís en grano, miel, azúcar harina y hay quien le echa vino blanco. Super saludables. Los pestiños no engordan nada. Engorda usted.

Flores fritas: Es una de las más célebres “frutas de sartén” como se conocen a estas masas fritas. Se utiliza un molde de flores para dale forma, generalmente en forma de cruz de lis. Tiene mil padres: los andalusíes, lo sefardíes, las ordenes militares caballerescas y suma y sigue. La base es harina, huevo, leche o agua, miel, aceite de oliva y algunos añadidos aromáticos al gusto. A la misma familia pertenecen los canutillos, las filloas, las almojábanas, los frisuelos o la leche frita.

 

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

317 Comentarios

  1. Magnífico resumen de la gastronomía dulcera típica de estas fechas.
    Vivan los Tosantos y fuera Halloween.

  2. Antonio. Después de leer tu gloria bendita de hoy, salgo pitando a la confitería a buscar huesos y buñuelos para mantener la tradición.

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