Dulce: el mayor de los pecados
Ottolenghi y Helen Goh desafían en su libro Dulce al enemigo público número uno: el azúcar. Un recetario que estimula los sentidos
l mundo de las personas humanas se divide en dos: los que engordan y los que no. A ojímetro, diría que el porcentaje mucho más grande es de los que cogemos kilos con facilidad, pero también existe esa franja de bípedos tocados por la varita de la fortuna genética que disfrutan, inconscientes de su suerte, del privilegio de lo que viene siendo no engordar. Hay un tercer grupo que no engordan porque se lo curran. Son esos semidioses capaces de controlar la dieta, de ingerir lo justo, en variedades y proporciones rigurosas; espartanos que nunca se rinden con la práctica deportiva y jamás se relajan, ni en la boda de sus hijos. Bravo por ellos porque tienen más mérito que a quienes la genética les da el trabajo hecho. Desgraciadamente la ciencia aún no ha avanzado lo suficiente como para poner en práctica el trasplante de metabolismo, que sería una bomba. Imagínense cuánto daño psicológico evitaría y cuánto bien le haría a la seguridad social acabar con las legiones de obesos, gordos y rellenitos. Pero volviendo al universo común de los cogekilos, si hay algo anatemizado en ese mundo es el dulce. El azúcar. Es una maldición bíblica que a los golosos nos persigue desde nuestra tierna infancia. Empiezan a quitarte los dulces cuando aún tienes los dientes de leche y esa prohibición severa te acompaña el resto de tu vida. Ya no tiene enmienda. Lo único que puedes elegir es cuándo, qué y en qué cantidad. Pero te educan en la prevención/prohibición al azúcar, a los dulces. Es el enemigo. Y eso incluye un amplio espectro de productos vetados: desde los bizcochos y tartas familiares, a todo lo que hay en las bandejas de las pastelerías, los dulces industriales, chucherías, helados, refrescos y un largo etcétera de productos que quedan para siempre al otro lado del muro.
Es absurdo discutir los efectos dañinos del azúcar en la salud. La lista es larga; obesidad, diabetes, enfermedades cardiovasculares, hipertensión, problemas bucodentales y así hasta el infinito. Ignoro quien dijo aquello del daño que producen a la salud las tres blancas de la gastronomía: el azúcar, la sal y la harina, pero anduvo acertado. En cualquier caso, es responsabilidad individual de cada cual saber cómo administra su vida, que en eso no entramos, faltaría más. Y por eso, les traemos hoy algunas pinceladas sobre un libro maravilloso: Dulce (Salamandra), de Yotam Ottolenghi y Helen Goh.
Ottolenghi, considerado el revolucionario de la cocina mediterránea, es un chef israelí afincado en Londres que escribió Jerusalén junto a Sami Tamimi, un cocinero palestino. Jerusalén es un canto a las cocinas del Mediterráneo, es una epifanía de la convivencia gastronómica de dos pueblos y es un manual de vida, despensa, sabores y cocina indispensable.
En Dulce aborda 120 recetas dulces que invitan a pecar y lo hacen desde la responsabilidad del significado del azúcar en nuestra sociedad y los efectos de su consumo en la salud, pero sin renunciar a una cocina dulce tan antigua, popular y refinada a la vez como la propia humanidad. “Este libro contiene tal cantidad de azúcar que estuvimos a punto de titularlo Azúcar, tal cual. En realidad, no hay nada como un bizcocho ligero y esponjoso, aromatizado con especias y cítricos, por ejemplo; o una galleta recién salida del horno, con el toque justo de azúcar glas y que se desmorona al morderla, para levantar el ánimo y regalarnos un instante de puro goce” dicen los autores.
No hay cocinero que, de hecho, se enfrente hoy a la elaboración de una carta o la escritura de un libro o un programa de televisión sin tener en cuenta las nuevas variables, que cada vez son más, lo que va haciendo más compleja y segmentada la oferta culinaria. Para Ottolenghi “en el mundo cambiante de las modas y tendencias alimentarias cada día nos acecha un nuevo enemigo público número uno: los huevos, las grasas, los hidratos de carbono. Un año nos dicen que limitemos su consumo y al siguiente que deben tener un peso importante en nuestra dieta” lo que su juicio provoca “que vivamos en un estado de confusión permanente” por lo que apuesta por una norma sencilla: “Ser honestos” y no confundir a nadie ni hurtar ingredientes, en una apelación a la responsabilidad individual.
Echar un vistazo a la estructura del libro es salivar: pastas secas o de té, pasteles mini, pasteles, tartas de queso, tartas y tartaletas, postres, dulces y golosinas, además de incluir un práctico capítulo dedicado a aconsejar sobre la elaboración de la repostería.
Es complicado elegir, pero aquí van seis muestras de un recetario que aglutina lo mejor de la técnica culinaria, el manejo de productos sencillos y al alcance de cualquiera y un gusto creativo y delicado por el dulce placer de darse un capricho y una habilidad especial para provocar al paladar.
Tejas de pan de jengibre con glaseado de mantequilla y ron. Es una versión de las que hace Elisabeth M.Prueitt, una galleta con aspecto de teja antigua que tiene en su base la mantequilla, la melaza, el azúcar moreno el jengibre molido, canela, clavo y pimienta. Proponen el zumo de limón como alterativa al ron.
Bolitas de nieve con pacanas. Es un dulce que se hace en todo el mundo con nombres diferentes. En Grecia se llaman kourabiedes y en México galletas de boda. El cocinero propone elaborarlas incluso como regalo envolviéndolas en una bosa de celofán y una cinta bonita: un detalle navideño con el azúcar glas evocando la nieve. Se emplean pacanas tostadas, mantequilla, vainilla, sal y harina. Para darle un toque de licor se emplea brandy, ouzo o Pernod.
Buñuelos de crema con azafrán a estilo de Roma. La receta de los buñuelos es tan diversa y está tan extendida que es difícil seguirles la pista. La que proponen la rescató Helen Goh del recetario de suegra -quien presta el apellido a la elaboración- quien la sacó de un periódico de 1973. La base es la masa de harina con doble fermentación y frita. Para el relleno proponen la crema elaborada con leche, yemas de huevo, azúcar, vainilla nata y azafrán.
Pastel de sémola con pistachos y agua de rosas. “Un pastel hecho con amor” dicen los autores. La mera presentación es un espectáculo visual estético, con los pétalos de rosa glaseados coronando el pastel. Cardamomo, pistacho, almendra molida, mantequilla, huevo, agua de rosas, zumo de limón y sémola fina están en la base; para la crema: yogur griego, créme fraîche. Y para los pétalos: clara de huevo, pétalos de rosa comestibles de color rosa y azúcar extrafino.
Tartaletas de frangipane, pistacho e higo: Esta receta la subió Ottolenghi a Instagram y se convirtió en un hit. El aspecto de la tartaleta con los higos cortados es espectacular. La crema frangipane es un clásico de la cocina dulce: una mezcla de crema de almendras aromatizas y crema pastelera. Proponen tomarla tal cual o con helado de vainilla. Se puede hacer con alternativas como la frambuesas horneadas. La base es de masa quebrada y la crema lleva pistacho, almendra, harina, mantequilla, ralladura de limón, huevos e higos. Le añaden brandy para intensificar el sabor de los pistachos.
Pudin de cebada integral con manzana asada y sirope de dátiles. Sostienen los autores que este pudin es como el arroz con leche de Oriente Próximo. “Un postre suculento para una comida de domingo en otoño, o una maravilla de desayuno que te pondrá las `pilas para afrontar el día”. La receta incorpora cebada de grano entero, sirope de dátiles, canela, limón, nuez moscada molida, manzanas Pink lady y Bramley, mantequilla, vainilla y yogur natural.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Tomo el café sin azúcar desde hace más de diez años. Cierto es, que pase de los 6/7 diarios a sólo dos al día. Sal, sólo tomo la mínima expresión del sabor.
Pasteles, muy pocos. Chocolate, un trocito diario.
Todo es encontrar el equilibrio entre lo deseable y lo recomendable para el bienestar corporal.
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