El imperio de la hamburguesa contra Menoc Donald
La multinacional de chicago obliga a un pequeño Burger de Cádiz a renunciar a su nombre porque invitaba al plagio. 34 años después, el modesto establecimiento ha pasado a llamarse Menoc burger
ay un local en la recoleta calle Sagasta de Cádiz que resiste al invasor como una pequeña aldea gala. Desde hace 34 años subsiste el Menoc Donald, que es una modesta hamburguesería que combate con las armas de lo doméstico, los productos de cercanía y jugando a la calidad-precio frente a las grandes marcas del sector de la comida rápida, que ocupan los mejores esquinazos de la ciudad. Menoc Donald, ese era el nombre del burger. Un pequeño juego lingüístico muy al estilo de la ciudad perita en inventar nombres, domesticar el lenguaje, ironizar lingüísticamente, deformar la semántica hasta que encaja en su patrón de lo perfecto y maestra en jugar con el doble sentido. Tanto, que los guías turísticos suelen parar a los extranjeros a las puertas del local para ejemplificar con su nombre en qué consiste el sarcasmo a la gaditana.
No podrán hacerlo más. Va a tener que buscarse otro ejemplo. Mc Donald´s ha enviado un burofax desde un despacho de abogados a su propietario, José Antonio Calvo, instándolo amablemente a cambiar de nombre el establecimiento en unos pocos días porque vulnera los derechos de la marca registrada y le advertían de los daños y perjuicios en los que podrían incurrir de no atender la “amistosa” invitación a renunciar a la marca local. Una “invitación raruna”. Un esfuerzo difícil de entender contra un pequeñísimo establecimiento de ámbito local que luce en su fachada el cartel en metacrilato desde hace un tercio de siglo, desde que fue bautizado por el anterior propietario, para el que trabajaba inicialmente José Antonio Calvo. Los caminos de las multinacionales son inescrutables. Cualquiera sabe quién y por qué ha decidido que ese pequeño burger mixto – también vende pizzas, sándwiches, salchichas y sus célebres “calzonettis”- es una amenaza, o una molestia, para la marca canónica de las hamburguesas en serie. Poca mosca para tanta garra. Pero así ha sido. Y el propietario, con el aplomo y la vista larga gaditana, ha decidido no perder un minuto y ha sustituido el nombre. “Para qué voy a perder el tiempo, sé que llevo todas las de perder”. Menoc Donald se llama ya Menoc Burger, aunque pueden dar por seguro que en la ciudad en la que los taxistas siguen guiándose por la dirección de una plaza de toros que no existe hace más de cuarenta años, el Menoc Donald seguirá llamándose Menoc Donald aunque cambie el nombre. Recibió Calvo dos burofax con la misma idea: la ironía sobre el nombre de la marca incitaba al plagio. Durante los días siguientes empezó a enviarles cada cambio de cartelería, la carta y las redes sociales. “Ya tengo una edad, estoy mayorcito para meterme en líos o en disputas judiciales que además seguramente perdería, así que no lo consulté con abogado alguno ni con nadie: me puse a desmantelar el nombre poco a poco y ya está. En realidad, con la propaganda que me han hecho ya me vale de sobra”, dice un pragmático Calvo, quien sostiene que desde que ocurrieron los hechos cuelga el cartel de completo en su hamburguesería, en la que trabajan cuatro personas.
Nadie entiende bien qué gana la empresa con sede en Chicago con ese movimiento más allá de granjearse una impopularidad añadida. Y hoy en día en la era de la reputación y las redes sociales, no hay impopularidad pequeña. Lo de los fuertes contra los débiles nunca es bien tolerado por la gente. La firma, que factura 22.000 millones de dólares anuales, que tiene 36.000 establecimientos en 118 países y emplea a 1,7 millones de personas, empeñándose en que un pequeño burger cambie su nombre porque ironiza con la marca. Tiempos raros. Un cronista deportivo diría que los abogados se han empachado de balón. En Cádiz se ha desatado una ola de simpatía por el fenecido Menoc Donald, que se ha extendido a las redes sociales. En su mayoría, además de mostrar su solidaridad y sorpresa, los clientes y gaditanos en general recuerdan que el Menoc Donald abrió en Cádiz antes que el primer Mc Donald´s. Incluso el alcalde de Cádiz, José María González “Kichi”, ha salido en defensa del negocio local: “Pues yo sigo prefiriendo el Menoc Donald y el Menoc Burger. Por atención, por calidad, porque lleva más de treinta años en la ciudad y porque por más que le obliguen a quitar el nombre nunca le van a poder quitar su inconfundible sello. Y Cádiz lo sabe”. Esto de las grandes multinacionales no es nuevo: en 1973 Disney obligó al actual y célebre Bar Donald a cambiar su nombre, que originalmente era Pato Donald.
El 12 de agosto de 1999 un agricultor francés llamado José Bové se subió a su tractor y junto a otros nueve campesinos enfiló las afueras de Millau y la emprendió contra un Mc Donald´s en construcción hasta que el futuro despacho de hamburguesas cayó como la cabaña de paja de los tres cerditos. La rabia del campo, de los productores, contra las multinacionales. Protestaban contra los impuestos comerciales de EEUU a algunos productos europeos, entre ellos el queso Roquefort, a cuya fabricación se dedicaba Bové. Para muchos teóricos, aquel fue el acto iniciático de los movimientos antiglobalización en todo el mundo. En este caso ha sido al revés: la multinacional le ha metido la excavadora al rótulo de Menoc Donald, ese testigo de un tiempo inocente e irónico; un nombre que, a su manera, también era un canto contra la globalización, la uniformidad y la circunspección. Al fin y al cabo, Menoc es Mac.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Propaganda gratuita para el establecimiento gaditano.
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