La penúltima cena
Miguel Herrero ha convocado ya a más de 2.200 personas que no se conocían entre ellas a 320 cenas. “Nunca comas solo” se llama su iniciativa, que apuesta desde hace ocho años por el networking emocional y por celebrar la vida
Se sentaría usted a cenar con ocho desconocidos por el mero placer de socializar, charlar y disfrutar de una cena agradable? En estos tiempos de aplicaciones y redes sociales han ido cayendo muchas corazas y los contactos se han multiplicado por veinte, pero eso no implica una mejora de las relaciones sociales. En muchos casos los oficiantes persiguen estímulos de corto alcance -sexo- o de largo -amor- y en unos pocos casos se fomenta compartir aficiones. Lo que organiza Miguel Herrero, de 49 años, desde el 2014, es justo lo contrario. En primer lugar, nada virtual. Solo presencial, muy presencial. Y en segundo lugar, el único interés de esta cita es que no existan intereses. Solo ganas de conocer gente y pasar una velada agradable. Es la anti app. Citas auténticas que persiguen la civilizada idea de compartir en torno a una buena mesa. Es una especie de slow social food, una ceremonia en la que importan tanto las expectativas y las ganas de los asistentes, la calidad de la conversación como la inmersión gastronómica.
Lo más relevante de cada cita se disputa antes. Cuando Miguel Herrero, que profesionalmente se dedica al ámbito agroalimentario, selecciona a los invitados de cada semana. Ahí está la clave de bóveda. En el equilibro de los perfiles de los comensales y en el ojo clínico que ha desarrollado el anfitrión para sacar de la convocatoria a quienes quieren acudir persiguiendo objetivos muy concretos que se alejan del espíritu de la iniciativa. No hay nada científico ni interviene el big data para mezclar comensales. Es más sencillo: “Cuando les conozco personalmente y veo que les brilla los ojos rápidamente sé quienes tienen mucho interés. Por los correos también saco mucha información y se nota quién tiene más curiosidad o que tiene mucho interés de disfrutar de gente desconocida”, explica.
Al principio de los tiempos, Herrero citaba uno a uno a los comensales antes de la cena “como en una especie de casting”, se ríe, para decidir quienes asistían a la cita. Hoy es imposible. Actualmente, hay más de 300 personas en lista de espera, un año de paciencia como mínimo. Ahora intercambia mensaje con ellos a través de un formulario que rellenan en su web (nuncacomassolo.com). Los tantea, piensa y trata de entender quienes encajan mejor en cada cena. Sostiene que el 90% de los asistentes ve cumplidas sus expectativas. “Es fundamental el trabajo de selección previo”.
El origen de estas cenas está en un libro del mismo nombre de la acción. En Nunca comas solo, un clásico de Keith Ferrazzi, se aborda la manera de optimizar el networking y la optimización de las relaciones personales. “El libro me pareció interesante pero opté por darle un enfoque mas humano, encuentros que huyeran de los intereses laborales y el intercambio de tarjetas de visita. Hice un primer experimento y salió bien. Vi una formula para conocer gente y enriquecerme con experiencias. Me tiraba la idea de poner en contacto a la gente interesante que yo conocía con otra gente interesante y, por supuesto, conocer restaurantes”, explica Herrero a quien la iniciativa le roba un tiempo considerable y no gana un solo euro. Se paga su cubierto, como los demás. Todo a escote.
Los restaurantes los elige él. A veces repiten. Depende de lo confortable del lugar, de si ofrece reservados que se prestan más a la conversación y del menú. Adapta el restaurante al tipo de invitados de cada cena. El ticket medio ronda los 50€, aunque ha habido cenas por 35€ y otras más onerosas cuando ha citado a los asistentes a restaurantes galardonados por la guía Michelín. Restaurantes como el de Ramón Freixa, Dstage, Rabioxo, Fissmuler, La ancha o El mollete de la calle de la Bola, uno de sus preferidos, han acogido estos encuentros, aunque la lista suma ya cientos de establecimientos. Los vinos son elegidos entre los comensales, que pactan un segmento de precio en la misma mesa. “A veces se piden vinos más apañados de precio; otras, vinos caros; en unas se bebe mucho y en otras muy poco. Cuando hay discusiones irresolubles, aunque no suele pasar, yo tengo la última palabra”. A veces ha convocado en su propia casa encargando un catering y en ocasiones han llegado a dejarles casas particulares para citar a sus invitados.
Un momento muy importante es al comienzo de la cena cuando Miguel presenta a cada uno de los invitados. “Se crea el clímax, explico quién es cada uno y se puede mascar la expectación”.
Observa Herrero que con el tiempo los encuentros han ido virando más hacia la idea de conocer gente que a la experiencia gastronómica propiamente dicha. “La gente que viene ahora es como menos foodie. Gente a la que le llama la atención cenar con desconocidos. Más aventura, estos encuentros tienen una componente muy humana, se traspasan rápido las barreras entre gente que hasta hacía unos minutos no se conocían”. Miguel Herrero ha asistido a todas y cada una de las cenas salvo a una que convocó en Valencia porque perdió el tren. Siempre hay una apuesta por la diversidad en las cenas. Que los grupos no sean homogéneos ni en profesiones ni edades. Entre los asistentes más jóvenes hay alguno de 19 años. Los mayores han rondado los 80. Pero la media de edad entre 30 y 50 años. Ha habido de todo: periodistas, médicos, cocineros, escritores, administrativos, artistas e incluso algún político. La política, por cierto, no es un asunto que perturbe las cenas. “No es de los temas más recurrentes, alguna vez se ha abordado algún asunto de actualidad pero desde el respeto con cada opinión”.
La única norma es que haya una sola conversación durante la cena, un único hilo conductor, sin conversaciones cruzadas. Cada cena es distinta a la anterior “y a veces salen temas que no te esperas, yo procuro quedarme al margen y escuchar, solo intervengo si veo que es necesario porque algo se sale de su cauce”, explica. Se habla de temas personales, algunos cuentan su divorcio, los problemas de sus hijos, sus experiencias en otros países o de Shakira y Piqué. De todo un poco, pero siempre impera el sentido común y la cortesía. Son cenas fluidas que a veces duran hasta tres horas, aunque al ser entre lunes y jueves “hay que trabajar al día siguiente y tienen un límite”. Lo ideal, dice, son seis personas, el máximo ocho. Procura que nadie repita, aunque algunos casos ha habido.
Todos los asistentes a las cenas integran automáticamente el Club Nunca comas solo. Sus miembros reciben una newsletter semanal comentando los pormenores de la última cena. Y una vez al año convoca a todos los miembros a una cena especial con recepción y música. La última fue en el Castillo de Canena, en Jaén, con casi un centenar de asistentes. A esta cena, excepcionalmente, pueden ir con acompañantes. Y ahí sigue Miguel Herrero, organizando sus veladas, con la ilusión intacta y un empeño entusiasta en la tradición de la mejor tradición de la diplogastro. “Networking emocional”, le llama él a esta experiencia que aspira “a celebrar la vida” sin imposturas, likes ni un contador permanente de seguidores en su cena. Una cena que siempre es la penúltima.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Espectacular, Antonio. Brillante iniciativa. Me apunto a semejante sensación de vivir y degustar emocional.
Maravilloso Club del que tengo la fortuna de formar parte y excepcional persona el anfitrión! De eso que sí que dices “qué suerte tengo de haberme cruzado con este señor en el camino”!!!’
Alguna de estas cenas se celebra en Barcelona? Intuia pero tras leer el artículo me ha quedado todo muy claro. Me encantaaaaa
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