Una historia de hambre: cuando la tortilla de patatas no llevaba ni huevo ni patatas
“Las recetas del hambre” se aproxima al empeño de millones de mujeres por sacar adelante a sus familias cocinando lo que hiciera falta en plena posguerra española. El ingenio afloró cuando se vaciaron las alacenas: el albedo de las naranjas frito o la tortilla de patatas sin patatas ni huevo, como símbolos de la resistencia y la dignidad
sta es una historia triste y feliz. Triste porque no hay nada más sombrío que el hambre. Feliz porque, con una suma de necesidad, convicción, superación y resistencia, hubo una generación que sacó a flote a sus familias con las despensas vacías, las manos atadas y el Estado en contra. Esta es la humilde pero extraordinaria historia de la tortilla de patatas sin patatas ni huevos, de las cáscaras de naranjas fritas, el pan de bellotas y el guiso de merluza sin merluza. Una historia en la que no servían los recetarios de cocina sino la imaginación para sustituir a los ingredientes que sugerían los recetarios. La historia de un tiempo de las colas del hambre que la dictadura pretendió prohibir por decreto mientras las colas se multiplicaban por toda España. La historia de los estraperlistas, el mercado negro y los hurtos. Y es sobre todo una historia de mujeres. Solteras, casadas y muchas viudas que se echaron a la familia a las espaldas y decidieron que sus hijos no morirían malnutridos en aquella España de la posguerra, mísera, injusta, dolorida y perdida en el laberinto del tiempo en el que la única verdad era el hambre, que mordía con colmillos afilados.
El hambre desigual, inequitativa
David Conde y Lorenzo Mariano Juárez, dos doctores en antropología con la mirada afinada y un entendimiento superior del acontecer cotidiano de los años más negros de nuestra historia reciente, han escrito un libro canónico: Las recetas del hambre (Crítica). Es una aproximación inédita a las consecuencias de la guerra civil española. El hambre como unidad de medida de todas las cosas. Pero era un hambre desigual, repartido de formar inequitativa entre vendedores y vencidos. Ni siquiera el régimen perseguía igual a los estraperlistas del bando nacional que a los rojos. Era una España donde la derrota y la victoria marcaban la frontera entre la vida y la muerte. Con cartillas de racionamiento de primera, segunda o tercera en función de la posición social y familiar o la profesión del cabeza de familia. Marcaban las cantidades y el acceso a ciertos alimentos. Las cartillas, con el tiempo, pasaron a ser cupones individuales. Así Franco controlaba lo que se comía, cuánto, dónde se compraba y quién lo ingería. Nada escapaba a un estado opresor que tenía la exclusiva del reparto de alimentos, que confinó el consumo de carne, leche, huevos o azúcar a una receta médica y que provocó que el precio de una simple patata se incrementara un 647% respecto a su precio antes de la guerra. Ríase de la inflación de hoy.
La primera generación que dejó las recetas escritas a sus hijas
Lo más prodigioso de lo que cuentan Conde y Juárez se aleja de los registros oficiales y del trabajo, trillado y abundante, de los historiadores para aterrizar en las historias familiares de cada día, en la pelea por la vida, en las preocupaciones por el futuro de los hijos y en la habilidad y pericia de las mujeres que encendían la lumbre para improvisar algo parecido a una ración de proteínas diarias para la familia. Como indican los autores, la privación y la escasez alimentaria modifica todos los patrones sociales y crean su propia y sobrevenida realidad. “En ocasiones implica adoptar cambios morales, como en la gestión de los recursos o el reparto de los alimentos” en un contexto en el que la mera identificación como rojo o vencido en la guerra justificaba y explicaba su hambre, librando al régimen de cualquier responsabilidad. Y es muy interesante lo que dice Ana Vega Pérez de Arlucea en el prólogo, bajando a tierra esa responsabilidad moral de las madres “quienes capearon como pudieron el temporal del hambre” proveyendo de alimentos (en las colas del racionamiento, en los campos de labranza, o empleándose donde pudieron) y también improvisando una comida no ya de subsistencia sino de resistencia. Con amarga certeza, apunta Vega, aquella fue la primera generación de madres “que no transmitió las recetas del hambre apuntadas con el mimo que caracteriza a la transmisión de saberes gastronómicos (..) con orgullo de madres a hijas, ni sirvieron para demostrar destreza, buena mano o ingenio”. Ese legado de la memoria gastronómica familiar convertido en otra víctima de la guerra.
¿Y qué comían aquellas familias? Quizás esa suerte de recetas de lo posible sea lo más anecdótico. El ingenio, notable y diverso, palidece ante el respeto que causa el empeño de salir adelante con la prole, de sobrevivir y de no ser vencidos en lo más íntimo por una dictadura que también dictaba quién comía y quién no y convertía el hambre en un modo de represión y en una forma vergonzante de ser español.
El desayuno
Hubo quien nunca dejo de tomar café-café, café de verdad. Está acreditado que la desigualdad y los privilegios cotizaban al alza. Quienes tenían posibles compraban al precio que fuera en el mercado negro. El contrabando y el estraperlo eran aliados de los más pudientes. El café solo se podía conseguir por esa vía. Un dato: en 1939 un kilo de café costaba 15,5 pesetas, lo mismo que costaban cinco kilos de besugo o tres kilos de queso. El resto de la población, café de achicoria (malta tostada con azúcar) o café de algarrobas o de cáscara de cacahuete. O sea, sucedáneos hirviendo. La leche llevaba hasta un 40% de agua. Cuentan los autores que en los comercios las listas de precios no ocultaban las calidades: “leche /leche de vaca /leche pura de vaca/ leche-leche de vaca”.
Mientras que en la ciudad se recurría al pan negro y duro como mejor sustitutivo de un pan horneado y fresco tras muchos días de hacer cola en la tahona y llegar al turno con el pan acabado, en el entorno rural se quitaba el hambre mañanero a base de migas, que se acompañaban de todo lo que había a mano, que era poco. Tan poco que los más pobres de los pueblos esperaban a que lloviera en otoño y las hormigas sacaran las reservas de grano que habían guardado durante el verano para quitárselo y echarse algo a la boca. Lo normal era el pan de centeno -que se hundía en la taza como una piedra- y el de algarroba y concentrado de uva. Se ponía en la mesa el pan con vino para ablandar la roca.
Sopas y hortalizas
Las sopas era una forma de prolongar el aprovechamiento del pan duro del desayuno. En general se utilizaba la legumbre de temporada, pero sobre todo la legumbre disponible. Sopas de cebolla, de tomate, de berros, de higos, de ajo y la que llaman en Pontevedra sopa de caballo cansado: con pan de centeno, azúcar y vino.
El almuerzo
Se recurría sopas frías como el gazpacho, que se hacía con agua básicamente, aceite y cualquier documento a mano; cebolla, pimientos, ajos o tomate. Pero también se tomaba el gazpacho de menta-poleo, el gazpacho de ababoles, con aceite y amapolas tiernas o las soparás: pan duro, agua, vinagre y ajo.
Para las sopas calientes más de lo mismo: la base el pan duro y el agua. A partir de ahí algún tipo de caldo o sofrito si se encontraban ajos y cebolla; piezas de caza para meter nutrientes cuando era posible pillar alguna pieza furtiva y en Baleares o Galicia se cocían los huesos del cerdo de la matanza (salados y conservados en tarros) -hasta que no soltaban sustancia alguna. La comida del campo era especialmente diferente: “Como las bestias, claro que sí, comíamos lo que podíamos como si fuéramos auténticas bestias”. Hierbas de los parrales, los regajos de la ensalada que se criaba en los canchales, los adertones que es una hierba que nace en los sembrados y mucho algarrobo, que era forraje para los animales. Borrajas hervidas, bolas de achicoria hervidas y tortillas que nunca llevaban huevo con todo tipo de plantas, hierbas o cardos silvestre de las cunetas.
Donde no había patatas, había mondas de patatas y donde no había habas había almortas. Y donde no había calamares pues se hacían calamares fritos sin calamares pero con aros de cebolla. O sea, que aquellas mujeres, utilizando el ingenio como mejor ingrediente, descubrieron el trampantojo mucho antes que Ferrán Adriá.
La carne era un deseo
El deseo carnal era otra cosa. Lo más parecido para quien no tenían recursos o posición social eran los riñones con tomate, los pajaritos fritos o las tripas de tordo. Y desaparecieron de la faz de las ciudades y el campo los mulos y burros, ratas y lechuzas, perros y gatos. El pescado las más de las veces llegaba al plato en forma de aroma y en el espíritu de la cocción o el hervido de unas raspas antes que por una pieza digna de tal nombre. Y todo se aprovechaba y se reaprovechaba. Con las vainas de los guisantes se destilaban algunas bebidas. De hecho, el licor de vainas remplazaba al vino y la ortiga a las legumbres. El pellejo blanco de la naranja frito (el albedo) o en puré se asomaba a las mesas a diario, igual que el sucedáneo de huevo: harina, agua bicarbonato, sal y colorante.
Cenas sin cena
Lo común era que muchas familias se fueran a la cama con el estómago vacío o a lo sumo con un trozo de pan duro para acallar a las tripas. La alternativa más frecuente a la nada eran las gachas: con harina, leche, azúcar, cebolla, ajo, grasa de tocino, cáscara de limón. Todo valía. No eran tiempos de escrúpulos. Y en aquel tiempo la castaña tuvo aplicaciones inéditas: guisos, sopas, pan, potajes y postres.
Postres, una entelequia
No estaba el horno para florituras. Como mucho algunos ingenios con más apariencia que sabor y calidad: Turrón del pobre (higos secos y nueces), castañas con semillas de anís y socochones (huevo si lo había con castaña molida y miel).
Patria y pan
Las cartillas de racionamiento y las colas se prolongarían desde 1939 a 1952, trece infames años. Un año antes de implantarse, en 1938, la aviación de Franco bombardeaba Madrid con pan blanco, un señuelo y un mensaje para la cabizbaja moral de los madrileños, que solo probaban y cuando podían el negro de centeno o avena. Los españoles serían los últimos occidentales en acceder libremente al pan. Aun seguirían funcionando los comedores de auxilio social y el estraperlo haría su agosto, no solo con alimentos, también adulterando medicinas y poniéndole elevado precio a cualquier bien de valor. De todas estas cosas y sobre todo de la pelea diaria y la dignidad de millones de familias que no se resignaron a morir habla este libro hermoso, triste y feliz. Y muy recomendable.
Citan los autores a Serrano Suñer, el cuñado de Franco: “Si fuera preciso, diríamos contentos: no tenemos pan pero tenemos Patria, que es algo que vale mucho más que toda otra cosa”. Lo dijo quien tuvo pan y patria, claro. Y lo parafrasean: “Si fuera preciso, diríamos contentos: no tuvimos pan, pero tuvimos lucha, resistencia y dignidad, que es algo que vale mucho más que toda otra cosa”.
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