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El diablo rojo

El Chile Habanero, la leyenda picante que llegó del Yucatán

 

Ítalo Calvino: «Así como el barroco colonial no ponía límites a la profusión de los ornamentos y al lujo, por lo cual la presencia de Dios era identificada en un delirio minuciosamente calculado de sensaciones, así la quemadura de las más de cien variedades indígenas de pimientos sabiamente escogidos para cada plato abría las perspectivas del éxtasis flamígero»

¿Quiere usted saber cómo se muere en vida? ¿Quiere sentir su garganta arrasada, su lengua anestesiada, sus papilas vencidas? Que las lágrimas que verterán sus ojos no le engañen: puede ser una de sus experiencias más gustosas de su vida, puro placer. Un masoquismo sin cicatrices ni antifaces que solo puede practicarse en la mesa, cuando el chile habanero, ese demonio caribe diminuto, naranja, rojo o amarillo, dependiendo de su grado de madurez, le ataque desde la cuchara. Caerán sus defensas. Imposible evitar su ataque inflamatorio, su colonización incandescente. «Ese apéndice furioso que quema le lengua como pólvora encendida«, según definición exacta y dolorosa del escritor Juan Villoro. LLamas en su boca. Ni el agua ni el hielo aplacarán la explosión. Ríndase. Necesita tiempo, respirar lentamente y esperar a la regeneración de la mucosa bucal. Es la capsaicina, el componente activo de los pimientos picantes.  Como mucho, acuda al remedio universal: maldecir el momento en que se atrevió con el habanero.

Este hijo del Yucatán y Campeche, también conocido como chile congo, chocolate o chile porrón, castiga pero con nobleza. Las salsas que enciende son míticas. Los paladares que incendia nunca olvidan. Pero el chile habanero encierra elevadas dosis de salud: genera la hormona de la felicidad, combate la migraña y reduce las infecciones crónicas de la sinusitis. No lo olvide: cuando sienta que el picante le invade la nariz como si crionizara el espacio retronasal, barriendo el tracto respiratorio y cortándole el aliento con espasmódicos ataques de puro fuego, en realidad está aniquilando las bacterias que se acumulan en la zona. Un antiséptico eficaz y amigable pese a su apariencia de infierno azteca.

Jamás un mexicano admitirá que el chile habanero pica. Competirá con usted en devorar chiles, aunque le perfore el estómago. Antes arde la lengua que el honor. No le siga. Hay algo de orgullo de país que le hace invencible en esa competición ardiente, picante, mágica, entrañable y mítica. Vienen de la península de la sopa de lima y los panuchos. Allí la gente es morena y recia; mestiza y azteca; el clima es muy caliente, húmedo y llueve como en los libros de García Márquez: de hecho, en ningún lugar llueve mejor que en los libros de Gabo. En el Yucatán los chiles son requetechulos. Atacan nasal y lacrimalmente. Tanto que también se usan para la industria farmaceútica y la química. El Yucatán: Cozumel, Cancún y Mérida, la alineación de los territorios míticos del habanero y la guayabera.

Pero no le tema al chile, no le huya y concédase, con moderación, un placer picante: incéndiese a gusto. No se prive del tremendo placer de sentir el dolor y el placer al mismo tiempo.

Especie: Capsicum chinense

Unidades de calor: 300.000 (escala Scoville: entre 0 – 15 millones)

Zona originaria: Yucatán; Campeche y Quintana Roo (México)

Receta: salsa de habanero
· 3 jitomates
· Sal
· 1 cucharada de aceite
· 1 diente de ajo
· 1 cebolla, en aros
· Chiles habaneros picados (según resistencia y capacidad de gozosa automortificación)

(existen muchas variedades de recetas:hay quien le añade vinagre, jalapeños, caldo, pimienta,orégano etc. Pero esta es más o menos la canónica)

Cómo hacer salsa de habanero

Se cuecen lo jitomates (que es como llaman en México a los tomates rojos; también manejan la denominación de tomate verde o tomatillo para los que no son rojos) en agua con sal. Se pelan y licuan hasta hacerlos puré. En una cacerola a fuego medio se saltea la cebolla y el ajo hasta que queden transparentes. Se añade el puré de jitomate, y se reduce durante 5 minutos a fuego lento. Se saca la salsa del fuego y se le agregan los habaneros. Sal, a la mesa y suerte.

105 Comentarios

  1. Jose Antonio el enero 12, 2020 a las 8:49 pm

    Magnífico post “Goloso flambeado”. Probaremos esta magnífica receta de salsa de habanero, espero encontrar esa hormona de la felicidad.

  2. Anónimo el enero 12, 2020 a las 8:56 pm

    Chico, has descrito tan bien los enormes efectos del chile y sus mil variantes que he imaginado la lava de los volcanes como correntías lentas de nieve roja.

  3. Juanlu el enero 12, 2020 a las 9:41 pm

    Qué recuerdos me has traído con este post.! El mundo del chile es apasionante.

  4. Diego el enero 15, 2020 a las 6:20 am

    Me encanta el chile, me apasiona el blog. La buena gastronomía se disfruta mucho más si se nos presenta envuelta en calidad literaria y altura intelectual. Enhorabuena!

  5. A.H.R. el enero 22, 2020 a las 11:29 am

    gracias amigo ¡ el año próximo judiones al habanero: a ver si no hay mangazo ¡

  6. A.H.R. el enero 22, 2020 a las 11:29 am

    jejeje se parece eh ¡ gracias por su comentario

  7. Rossana el marzo 19, 2021 a las 2:58 pm

    Todo hermoso pero los Mayas son los indigenas de la zona sur de Mexico, no los Aztecas.

  8. Juan el julio 30, 2021 a las 5:27 pm

    Una pasada de pimientos habaneros me trajeron de mexico (de tapadillo) unos pocos… Nos los hicimos mu hijo y yo a fuego lento con ajo y aceite de oliva, una delicia

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