La Cepa Gallega
De provisionista de buques a bache ultramarinos: un reducto de un Cádiz que ya no existe
“Bares, qué lugares”, cantaba Gabinete Caligari. “Bar, dulce hogar”, reza el dicho popular. O como escribió Franzen en Libertad: “Enseguida descubrió que el mundo se divide entre quienes saben sentirse a gusto solos en la silla de un bar y los que no saben”.
Da igual, mírenlo como quieran, todos sabemos que un buen bar es para toda la vida. La Cepa gallega no es exactamente un bar, pero es para toda la vida. Ni tiene estética ni alma de bar. Es otro cosa más profunda y especial. Un antiguo ultramarinos que abrió en 1920, justo cuando se fabricaba en la ciudad el primer coche de la fábrica de Ford en la Segunda Aguada. Fue base de una empresa provisionista de buques, llevada con talento, cariño y profesionalidad por Félix Fernández Verdejo, ya jubilosamente jubilado, quien oficiaba desde la barra como el gran capitán entre latas de conservas y quesos de su tierra natal manchega, compatibilizando la atención a los mercantes que atracaban en Cádiz con la atención a sus clientes, que son algo así como la familia cercana. La Cepa es de esos sitios con alma que encontrará en algunas ciudades viejas del mundo, especialmente en las portuarias. Espacios con historia, raíces y memoria. La vida pasa de puertas afuera, Dentro, todo es siempre igual o casi igual.
La Cepa tiene hoy una segunda vida que es casi clavada a la vida anterior, a manos de Bernardo Cruz, que mantiene muy alto el pabellón y le ha cogido rápido el aire al gobierno de ese pequeño pero grandísimo establecimiento. Bernardo ha revalidado en poco tiempo a la clientela, el estilo y el buen hacer. A su vera, el gran Pepe, experto en urgencias vitivinícolas, camarero-tendero sagaz, con vista larga y amabilidad innata, rápido de reflejos, perito en el manejo de la caña de lomo en papel de estraza, que es la vajilla de gran lujo, la de los días grandes,de los ultramarinos gaditanos.
En la Cepa Gallega (Calle Plocia 9), junto al muelle de la ciudad, el corazón del Cádiz portuario, además de consumir la buena amistad de parroquianos habituales, encontrarán embutidos, quesos y conservas de primer nivel: las mejores anchoas de Don bocarte, los mejillones Cuca o Camping y, por supuesto, el incunable queso Romero de Ocaña.
Y, por supuesto, en la Cepa puede comprar o consumir a precios muy especiales vinos de toda gama: desde un Petrus, Pingus o Torre Muga, hasta el último Cuatro Palmas de González Byass pasando por la gama completa de Hidalgo o los imprescindibles Imperial y Victoria Regina de Díez Mérito. Algo inédito en establecimientos de esta naturaleza: tanto la oferta como los precios.
Un templo de la amistad y el buen vivir en una calle paradójica y metafórica, donde las luces rojas de los últimos cabarets – o barras del alterne, como se les llamaba en los 60- compartían acera con el convento de la Iglesia de Santo Domingo, que abrocha la Puerta del Mar con el borde del casco histórico, y que es un lugar con una estrecha vinculación americana: allí se hospedaban los dominicos que cruzaban el Atlántico en labores pastorales. Plocia es una calle muy interesante: hereda el nombre, ya castellanizado, de los Plaucia, una importante familia asentada en Cádiz durante el imperio romana. Una de las hijas de los Plaucia, Pompeya Plotina, fue la esposa del emperador Trajano. La calle, nostalgia y memoria, es hoy una vía moderna y renacida, de referencia para la hostelería gaditana. Y la Cepa es un reducto de un Cádiz que ya no existe, un reloj parado que marca las horas del olor a brea, del sonido de las sirenas de los mercantes y de las mareas grandes de los armadores gallego-gaditanos. Puro Cádiz.
Antonio, felicidades por, una vez más, poner en combustión los sentidos más organolepticos de tus lectores:. Sólo una duda. Alguna explicacion a la nomenclatura gallega de la cepa en Cádiz? Pura curiosidad. Gracias!!!!
Bonito reportaje., aunque me gustaría puntualizar que La Cepa es un Siro mágico del que muchos gaditanos estamos enamorados. Mis felicitaciones a Bernardo que ha aprendido a manejar el negocio de forma sublime sabiendo atender y entender a los clientes de forma señorial
Por muchos años
Falta manolito
Ke también yeva muchos años
sí señor. Tiene razón. error imperdonable. Gracias
y que nosotros lo veamos Jose. Abrazo
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