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Noor, la paz esté contigo Morales

Una inmersión en La Cocina mudéjar en la Córdoba del siglo XXI: especias, cítricos y un tipo que sabe lo que hace.

En Noor se come más que bien. Es importante poner esto por delante, no sea que los árboles de la arquitectura histórico cultural andalusí de su propuesta nos impida ver el bosque. Paco Morales es un cocinero estupendo, que sabe lo que quiere y lo sabe hacer. Lo sabe hacer porque sabe a dónde va. Es el principio más importante para aprovechar el viento en la vela. Pero además de dar muy bien de comer, propone una immersión en las raíces -supongo que más bien en la reinterpretación de las raíces- de la cocina andalusí desde el siglo X, el siglo en el que Córdoba, con Abderramán III, se convierte en una de las urbes más importantes del viejo continente y ,según se documenta en trabajos científicos y literarios reconocidos, debió ser una cumbre de la exuberancia gastronómica. En su propuesta hay mucho respeto a los elementos que cohesionan históricamente el menú. No puede haber un plato que contenga patata o tomate antes del siglo XV, cuando las huestes de Colón empiezan a arrimar estos productos a España. Y no lo hay en la carta. Así, la algarroba sustituye, por ejemplo, al cacao. Fino filipino Morales.

Lo cierto es que la carta es un dechado de imaginación, creatividad y precisión técnica. Hace unos días, en este enero de 2020, probamos el menú mudéjar (siglo XIV), con influencias cruzadas de origen africana, cristiana y mudéjar. En un menú de 15 platos siempre hay elaboraciones que enamoran más que otras. Pero el conjunto es sólido y coherente, no baja de nivel en ninguno de los pases y termina siendo, en efecto, una inmersión en una cocina antigua, con raíces, con sentido y con sustento histórico. Como se diría ahora, La Cocina de Paco Morales – criado en fogones como los de Mugaritz o el Bulli- ofrece un relato. Un storytelling. Bien detto, que diría un italiano.

El cocinero ofrece un aliño de pepino y menta naranja que se puede comer en cualquier circunstancia y a cualquier hora del día: purifica y alegra el alma y un Karim (una crema, con textura similar a la de un ajo blanco o un salmorejo fino) de pistacho, huevas de arenque ahumado, y manzana verde con especias del desierto que resulta extraordinario. Para llevarse un táper. Igual que la menestra de verduras, untuoso de abadejo y café o la ostra al natural con zumo de aceituna Kalamata, geleé de cordero lechal y kefir, un plato que deberían servir en los comedores escolares y se acababa el debate de las grasas industriales en un minuto. Los niños saldrían a correr al patio sanos, bien nutridos y sin pizca de grasa. La cuajada de almendras, garum andalusí y frutos de mar es un plato sabroso, con contrastes y sabores profundos. Eso sí, garum al estilo de Paco Morales, porque llevo años leyendo sobre el garum y no hay consenso posible, más allá de que era una especie de pasta, liquamen o salsa de pescado (podrido, dicen algunos expertos; de vísceras fermentadas, dicen otros), con especies, aliños y vinos varios. Ya lo mencionaba reiteradamente en sus trabajos Apicio, el gastrónomo romano del siglo I que escribió De re coquinaria habilitándonos el conocimiento del papeo en el mundo romano: un epicúreo que cabreaba a los estoicos y que por lo visto se dejó lo que tenía y lo que no tenía en vivir bien. Poco que reprocharle, desde luego. Ya lo hizo siglos después otro epicúreo que no sabía ponerle nombre a lo que era, George Best, la estrella del Manchester United, el quinto Beatle: «Gasté un montón de dinero, en coches, mujeres y en el alcohol. El resto lo malgasté”. De Best hay más pistas, del garum o garo sabemos eso, que era un manjar perseguido para las mejores mesas romanas y que buena parte se fabricaba en las factorías de salazones de Baelo Claudia, en Cádiz, posiblemente la playa -una ensenada, en realidad- más hermosa del mundo.
Pero vuelvo a Morales. El mero asado con emulsión de sus cabezas y el pichón con cerezas torrefactadas y encurtidas son un final explosivo para los pases salados. De los postres – Naranja con sopas de azahar, almena mesopotámica de frutos rojos y regaliz; y algarroba nazarí, se puede decir lo mismo, que estaban riquísimos y mantenían la misma banda sonora de fondo.

Del maridaje de vinos – diez propuestas- destacaría dos de la tierra: el Fino Atemporal de Perez Barquero/Noor, un Montilla Moriles hecho con Pedro Ximenez interesantísimo y el Oloroso Lagar Blanco del mismo marco, muy sabroso. Me gustó mucho también el Chateau Musar  2012, un tinto libanés Del Valle del Bekáa para bebérselo en cascada. Paula, la eficaz somellier, sirve también un Refugallo Blanco 2016 -godello, alabariño y doña Blanca, con madera- de la bodega Dominio de Bibei que se prodiga poco fuera de Galicia y es un prodigio de calidad/precio.

Morales consigue que su menú sea extraordinariamente ligero, no pesa. Prácticamente sin grasa alguna. El equilibrio de cítricos, especias, encurtidos y plancha te deja preparado para la merienda.

Las presentaciones son elegantes. Y todo fluye con coherencia. Todo lo que rodea la experiencia gastronómica encaja con el universo que quiere recrear: desde la vajilla al purificador lavado de manos con agua tibia de azahar a la entrada, el cortinaje que descubre un mundo aparentemente vedado, pasando por los uniformes del personal, la luz (Noor, en árabe) y los guiños a Medina Zahara. Hay en Noor mucho de ese oficio de la hospitalidad cordobesa, seguramente heredada de siglos pretéritos, y que tan bien práctica mi amigo Juan Sillero, con quien almorcé.

En resumen, hay dos cuestiones destacables. La primera es que la sofisticación conceptual de Noor se torna sencillez en la mesa. Nada mata el sabor de los productos. La esencia del trabajo de fondo no se altera buscando efectismos de baratillo. Todo es sólido y convincente. Los sabores son reconocibles y las especies siempre juegan a favor del plato, sin estorbar. La otra cuestión más relevante es el valor añadido de quien es capaz de empezar a desbrozar un camino nuevo. Quien emprende su propio proyecto prescindiendo prácticamente de referencias previas. Son pocos los que se atreven. Paco Morales es uno de ellos, y las dos estrellas Michelin y un restaurante con llenos permanentes en Córdoba lo atestiguan. Pero no se confundan: Noor es antes que nada un restaurante y, en todo caso, se parece antes a una enciclopedia que a un parque temático.
           As salam Alaikum, Morales.

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  1. Si después de este homenaje gastronómico te hospedas en El Palacio del Bailío, habrás saboreado la mejor Córdoba.

  2. Sugerente y sugestivo post, Antonio. Bravo!!

  3. Antonio, se me ha hecho “la boca agua”. Deseando probarlo. Enhorabuena!!!

  4. Puedo ratificar todas tus apreciaciones e incluso abundar en ellas, ya que tuve la suerte el pasado miércoles de disfrutar el menú Almogávar y lo gocé de forma sublime!
    Gran descripción don Antonio.
    Un sitio que supera y ensalza la supuesta retórica de su propuesta gastronómica.
    Muy muy recomendable!!!!

  5. Si la gastronomía andaluza de mar ha sido el estandarte, la de interior en mi opinión tiene más mérito y si cabe, mayor profundidad cultural . Hace no demasiados años se reivindica de forma irreprochable y merece una ruta para disfrutarla de manera expresa e intensa. Bailén, Jaén, Ronda, Úbeda y naturalmente Córdoba como broche de un legado digno de poner en valor. Agradecido Antonio.

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