Surtopía, utopía sanluqueña en madrid
Pepe Calleja cumple ocho años con su restaurante de Madrid: muestrario actualizado de la cocina de la abuela
l Guadalquivir desemboca en la calle Núñez de Balboa 106. Los mapas dicen que el río grande andaluz se derrama en el Atlántico tras fluir por el estuario de Sanlúcar de Barrameda, ese rincón gaditano bendecido por el coto de Doñana y el poniente que refresca las botas de manzanilla. Pero no. Desde hace ocho años, cuando Pepe Calleja, un chavalote de 41 años, bético enfermizo, a quién se le ilumina el rostro cuando habla de su trabajo, clavó su pendón a pie del Barrio de Salamanca , el río grande de Andalucía se vierte en Surtopía, el hermoso nombre de esta utopía hecha realidad. Pepe le ha dado a su utopía el nombre del sur, y ha levantado un restaurante que limita con la Argónida de su paisano Caballero Bonald -el particular espaciotiempo de Doñana entre el mito y la historia- y el Malandar del también sanluqueño Eduardo Mendicutti, que lleva al nombre de sus memorias el de una hermosa playa en punta en el coto.
Surtopía está de aniversario y los madrileños están de suerte. Ocho años después, el restaurante está consolidado y creciendo. Forma parte del top 20 de algunas listas de la competitiva gastronomía madrileña y es el único templo dedicado a la cocina de Sanlucar de Barrameda en la capital: un magnífico ejemplo de buen hacer. Esencia y verdad. Conocimiento de lo que se trae entre manos y técnica para bordarlo. La fidelidad al concepto y el género de calidad lo es todo.
«La clave es trabajar con el producto más noble, que no siempre es el mas caro», aclara. Hace ocho años, con su Surtopía recién estrenado empezó a comprar marrajo (un tiburón de aleta corta, sabroso y versátil en la cocina). Hoy en su carta hay un tataki de tiburón, que es ese marrajo adobado, impresionante . Y maneja la cherna, que tiene mucha grasa en la barriga y se presta a una cuajadera de tomate y cebolla, como la urta a la roteña, un plato que manda a Proust y su magdalena a por tabaco. Es el conocimiento. El saber qué da el mar, qué hay dentro de cada pescado y haber explorado hasta el infinito las posibilidades de cada especie. Por eso no se mete en territorios absurdos. «La puntillita fresca», explica, «ronda los 26-28 euros el kilo, es imposible cobrar una ración al precio que vale cuando se ha acostumbrado a la gente a la puntillita chilena o india que viene ultracongelada y vale 8 euros. Con ese género hagas lo que hagas sale un mamarracho», enfatiza Calleja, quien apunta que, por ejemplo, no ofrece ortiguillas (anémonas: se comen fritas en casi todo el litoral gaditano y son una delicatesen) porque se ha popularizado una marca que las ofrece ya rebozadas y congeladas. «La gente termina por no saber de verdad qué son las ortiguillas y no las valora».
La asociación Cádiz-pescaíto frito sigue siendo fuerte, cuesta superarla. «Soy andaluz, gaditano, sanluqueño y me he alimentado más con bollos de carne mechá que con pescado. Pero el tópico sigue». En este rincón sanluqueño, donde también mandan los guisos marineros o el de callos con garbanzos, lo fríen canónicamente.
Este cocinero, con 20 años de experiencia en los fogones empezó en un hotel en Aguadulce (Almería), después aprendió con Jean Pierre Vandelle en El Olivo, compartiendo cocina con Andres Madrigal. Pasó por La cuchara de Rivas hasta cuajar su utopía sanluqueña en el Barrio de Salamanca madrileño. Pero lo mas importante ya lo traía aprendido a la capital: la cocina de toda la vida de su abuela Mercedes, quien tenía una carnicería en el mercado de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Dándole al cortafiambre y entre puestos de acedías, galeras, langostinos y verdura de los navazos sanluqueños, Pepe le cogió el gusto a la cosa.
Hoy su carta es un prodigio de los sabores clásicos de la cocina sanluqueña. Ha acortado grasas y ha profesionalizado los puntos de cocción . Pero la sustancia está al fondo del plato. Es la escuela de la cola de vaca de la abuela y de un gallo guisado «como no he probado nunca más». Pero en sus fondos también están los chipirones en su tinta y el arroz con habichuelas de su geografía sentimental de la Plaza del Cabildo y El barrio de la Trascuesta: Balbino, La morita y Magerit. «Huyo de la parafernalia actual. Y tampoco creo que las recetas lleguen mientras uno espera mirando al horizonte. La cocina tiene base , memoria y ejecución». Ese es su credo. Y lo practica a diario, acompañado de un personal de sala esmerado, con atenciones ya desacostumbradas -«la amabilidad gaditana no se negocia»- y que se han ido especializando, con estancias en Sanlúcar incluidas, en los vinos de la tierra.
Surtopía merece varias visitas, pero al menos, en la primera no se marche sin empezar con un bloody sherry y probar la corvina braseada con piriñaca de verano, el pez limón con encebollado de romero y amontillado, las huevas de caballa en tempura de manzanilla o los cachetes de rape en escabeche de oloroso y zanahoria.
Aunque aquí nos detenemos. Es imposible hacer gala de cocina marinera, aunque también tiene platos de carne en la carta, sin entrar en territorios mayores: la tortillita de camarones, que no lleva huevo ni nada que se le parezca. Un hito, un desafío que pocos resuelven con nota. Ese es un producto delicado de la cocina gaditana. En sus orígenes llevaba harina de trigo y harina de garbanzo -Calleja solo utiliza la blanca de trigo- cebolleta, sal agua, perejil y camarones. Camarones crudos. Si se cuecen previamente ya no hay tortillita. Los camarones llegan desde la marisma del Guadalquivir. La receta no tiene mucho secreto, pero su elaboración solo está al alcance de los elegidos. El resultado es un encaje finísimo, una filigrana translúcida, con una masa sabrosa y equilibrada que ha atrapado a los camarones como si de una red se tratase. Una floritura muy difícil. No se prive de probarlas al menos una vez en la vida. Pepe Calleja tiene una de las llaves.
Otra singularidad de Surtopía es que todos los platos se elaboran con vinos generosos del marco de Jerez, con predominancia sanluqueña. La palomino manda, aromatiza y da personalidad a los guisos. Y no solo en el plato, Surtopía es también cita obligada para los enamorados de los jereces. Pepe Calleja ofrece vino con etiqueta propia: 11540, que se corresponde con el código postal de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Así, ofrece una manzanilla pasada extraordinaria de las botas de Sanchez Ayala-una bodega muy interesante-, en concreto de la bota fundacional de la Gabriela oro, una cumbre. Y un médium agradablemente dulce, sin empalagar. Con Barbadillo trabaja un blanco de mesa sin encabezar, elaborado para Surtopía y bajo sus indicaciones. Además tiene una carta bien surtida de vinos de Jerez.
Bajo de guía, las piletas, la playa de la calzada, la plaza del cabildo, las carreras de Caballos en la playa -las más antiguas de España, en las bajamares del verano desde hace 175 años- y otros rincones privilegiados de la tierra sanluqueña coronan las paredes del local. Si quiere conocer Sanlúcar sin salir de Madrid ya sabe donde ir. Cuando regrese al asfalto llevará el paladar salino, la sonrisa ancha y los pies rebozados de fina y blanca arena.
Gracias en nombre de Sanlúcar y dar ha conocer su tradicional cocina y sus productos naturales
sobrino eres genial viva er Betis
Sanlúcar es muy grande!!
Sanlúcar es muy grande!!
Se me ha hecho la boca agua. Deseando probar esos manjares.
Oleeeee ANDALUCIA y su gente
Remarkable! Its really remarkable post, I have got much clear idea concerning
from this piece of writing.
Have a look at my website :: Revolutionizing content creation with AI
Currently it looks like Expression Engine is the preferred blogging
platform available right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you
are using on your blog?
Feel free to visit my web blog … Future of work from home
Why visitors still use to read news papers when in this technological globe the whole thing is accessible on web?
Look into my web site :: Eye health tips
My spouse and I stumbled over here coming from a different
website and thought I might check things out.
I like what I see so i am just following you. Look forward to
exploring your web page yet again.
Here is my blog post buy avodart online without a prescription
creating multiple income streams as a therapist
affiliate marketing to earn money from home passive income for doctors working part-time
creative ways for therapists to make money on the side
my webpage online tutoring for medical professionals
Hey there, You have done a fantastic job. I will definitely digg it and personally recommend to my friends.
I am sure they’ll be benefited from this web site.
my web blog … amitriptyline vs acetaminophen for headache relief
Hi there, I enjoy reading all of your post. I like to write a little comment
to support you.
Have a look at my web page; Constance
Hello there! This is kind of off topic but I need
some guidance from an established blog. Is it very hard to
set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast.
I’m thinking about making my own but I’m not sure where to begin. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
Thank you
my website Jermario
Hello there, just became aware of your blog through Google, and found that it’s
really informative. I am gonna watch out for brussels.
I will appreciate if you continue this in future.
Numerous people will be benefited from your writing. Cheers!
Feel free to surf to my homepage :: 부산달리기
I enjoy reading through a post that will make men and women think.
Also, thanks for allowing for me to comment!
my website – Charlyn
If the casino has a maximum withdrawal limit on how significantly you can withdraw from yojr bonus, it
is not a very good bonus.
My blog post: https://canvas.instructure.com/
You can acquire a 100% match poker bonus with a minimum deposit of $50 and the promo
code NEWBOL.
Here is my web-site here
If you haven’t payed a Live Dealer casino game ahead
of, they’re definitely worth a attempt.
My page :: 온라인카지노
Hello to all, how is everything, I think every
one is getting more from this web page, and your
views are good designed for new visitors.
Feel free to visit my web page :: tech inspector play kit
A list of all NJ casino web page-sites
regulated by the New Jersey Division of Gaming Eforcement (NJDGE).
65x wagering requirements, max bonus conversion equal to lifetime deposits (up to £250) to true fund and full T&Cs apply.
Here is my hompage … 바카라
gambling activities being performed by way of cryptocurrencies.
Review my page – 온라인카지노 추천
I’m not sure where you are getting your info, but good topic.
I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more.
Thanks for fantastic info I was looking for this info for my
mission.
My blog post forfivo sin efectos indeseables en Perú
Hi this is kinda of off topic but I was wanting to know if blogs use WYSIWYG editors
or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding know-how so
I wanted to get advice from someone with experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Feel free to visit my webpage; alonest online zonder voorschrift in Nederland
Marvelous, what a blog it is! This web site presents helpful facts to us, keep
it up.
Visit my blog dónde encontrar dualgan en Argentina
I blog quite often and I really thank you for your content. This great article has truly peaked my interest. I am going to book mark your blog and keep checking for new information about once per week. I opted in for your RSS feed too.
thezeroword.com
Hi! I know this is kind of off-topic however I needed to ask.
Does operating a well-established blog like yours take a lot of
work? I’m brand new to blogging but I do write in my diary daily.
I’d like to start a blog so I can share my own experience and
thoughts online. Please let me know if you have any kind of recommendations or
tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!
Here is my site: Arthur
Do you have a spam problem on this site; I also am a blogger, and I was curious about your
situation; many of us have developed some nice procedures and we are looking to swap strategies with others,
why not shoot me an email if interested.
Feel free to visit my website :: Jeannine
Thank you for the auspicious writeup. It in fact was a amusement account it.
Look advanced to more added agreeable from you!
By the way, how could we communicate?
Also visit my web page; commander retin-a en Belgique
I am really inspired together with your writing abilities as neatly as
with the format on your blog. Is that this a paid topic or did you
customize it your self? Either way keep up the
excellent quality writing, it’s uncommon to peer a nice weblog like this one these days..
My web-site: Patty
This article will assist the internet people for building up new weblog or even a weblog from start to end.
My page … precio del clavamel con receta
Highly energetic blog, I loved that bit. Will there be a part 2?
Also visit my blog: lamisil en venta sin receta en Argentina
Post writing is also a excitement, if you be acquainted with then you can write
if not it is difficult to write.
Feel free to surf to my web-site – Verkauf von piogtan in Österreich
This LEGO set is a great way to show that even though Baby Yoda may be small, the force within him is still strong.
Bricks will be with you always! quality Lego kits
Each Lego set has a remarkable attention to detail, from the texture on dungeons walls to the accuracy in recreating landmarks.
Lego has captured the iconic FC Barcelona stadium in a way that is truly amazing.
Their attention to detail and authenticity is evident.
We’re a gaggle of volunteers and starting a new scheme in our community.
Your web site offered us with valuable information to work on. You’ve done an impressive
job and our entire group will be thankful to you.
Feel free to visit my homepage … Walter
YouTube is full of Lego ideas. I’ve spent hours watching amazing Lego creations.
explore popular lego set Lego sets have the ability to
transport me into new worlds. It’s amazing how much attention is
paid to each set. It’s almost as if you are living in those bricks.
Who needs to be a master of all trades if you have the LEGO jack-of-all
bricks? Limitless possibilities.
Hi, I log on to your new stuff regularly. Your story-telling style is witty,
keep doing what you’re doing!
my web site; baby babbler play kit
Its like you read my mind! You appear to know so much about this, like you wrote the book in it or something.
I think that you could do with some pics to drive the
message home a bit, but other than that, this is wonderful
blog. A great read. I will certainly be back.
Check out my homepage – achat de vermox en Europe
Very good post! We will be linking to this particularly great content on our site.
Keep up the good writing.
Also visit my web site: achat en ligne de emb
Hello my loved one! I wish to say that this post is amazing, great written and include almost all vital infos.
I would like to see more posts like this .
Feel free to surf to my blog post; Wo kann man Medikamente in Lyon kaufen?
Keep on working, great job!
Feel free to visit my blog … peroxiben rezeptfrei erhältlich in Luxemburg
I am not sure where you’re getting your information, but
good topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more.
Thanks for wonderful information I was looking for this information for my mission.
Feel free to visit my web page :: Kauf von mirtazonal ohne ärztliche Verschreibung
It’s going to be end of mine day, except before finish I am reading this great piece of writing to improve my knowledge.
my site; kup urispas w Szczecinie bez konieczności recepty
Hey very nice web site!! Man .. Excellent
.. Amazing .. I’ll bookmark your website and take the
feeds additionally? I’m glad to seek out numerous useful info right
here in the put up, we want develop extra strategies in this regard,
thank you for sharing. . . . . .
My webpage – levofloxacin 500 mg a prezzo competitivo a Genova
My partner and I absolutely love your blog and find nearly all of your post’s to be
just what I’m looking for. can you offer guest writers to write content available for you?
I wouldn’t mind writing a post or elaborating on most of the subjects you write
in relation to here. Again, awesome web site!
Here is my web site; clenbuterol online ohne Rezept
Hi there to every body, it’s my first pay a visit of this webpage; this webpage
consists of amazing and actually fine data in support of readers.
My site; Ambrose
Awesome things here. I’m very happy to peer your article.
Thank you so much and I’m looking forward to touch you.
Will you please drop me a mail?
Here is my website: minomycin disponible en ligne en France
This post is actually a pleasant one it helps new web people, who are wishing for blogging.
Feel free to visit my blog :: gastromins in vendita in Europa
This website was… how do you say it? Relevant!!
Finally I’ve found something that helped me. Thank you!
Feel free to surf to my website: Jenifer
I constantly emailed this weblog post page to all my contacts, for the reason that
if like to read it next my links will too.
Also visit my blog post :: Krystn
WOW just what I was looking for. Came here by searching for Small Business Consulting
My site :: Nocole
For latest news you have to pay a quick visit internet and on internet I found
this site as a most excellent website for most up-to-date updates.
Also visit my homepage – Leana
Hey There. I found your blog using msn. This is a very well written article.
I will be sure to bookmark it and come back to read more of your
useful information. Thanks for the post. I’ll certainly comeback.
Feel free to visit my webpage: Alesandra
Aw, this was an incredibly good post. Taking a few minutes
and actual effort to generate a top notch article… but what can I say… I
hesitate a lot and don’t manage to get nearly anything done.
Feel free to surf to my site: Shasha
This site was… how do you say it? Relevant!! Finally I have found something that helped me.
Many thanks!
My web site … Ranardo
Fine way of describing, and nice piece of writing to obtain data regarding my presentation subject, which i
am going to convey in college.
Here is my website … Elexis
Hello there! Do you know if they make any
plugins to protect against hackers? I’m kinda paranoid about losing everything I’ve worked hard on. Any suggestions?
Here is my webpage – Sonnet
I will immediately take hold of your rss feed as I can not to find your email subscription hyperlink or e-newsletter service.
Do you’ve any? Please permit me recognize in order that
I may just subscribe. Thanks.
Also visit my web page: Raeann
Hi Dear, are you actually visiting this web site daily, if so after that you will absolutely take
nice knowledge.
Feel free to visit my blog post :: carencil recommandé par les médecins spécialistes
bookmarked!!, I really like your blog!
Here is my site: Adonis
It’s very straightforward to find out any matter on web as compared to books, as I found this article at this website.
My homepage; Miquel
I am really thankful to the holder of this web site who has shared this enormous paragraph at at this place.
Check out my blog – Lucile
I’m amazed, I have to admit. Seldom do I encounter a blog that’s equally educative and
entertaining, and without a doubt, you’ve hit the nail
on the head. The problem is something not enough men and women are speaking intelligently about.
I am very happy I found this during my search for something regarding
this.
Also visit my webpage – Dwayne
Hi there just wanted to give you a quick heads up. The words in your content seem to be running off the screen in Ie.
I’m not sure if this is a formatting issue or something to
do with browser compatibility but I figured I’d post to let you know.
The design and style look great though! Hope you get the problem resolved soon.
Thanks
Visit my homepage Barry
Awesome article.
Feel free to visit my web blog :: Randolph
I read this post fully about the comparison of hottest
and previous technologies, it’s amazing article.
my web site: Josette
Spot on with this write-up, I honestly think this website needs
far more attention. I’ll probably be returning to read
through more, thanks for the information!
Feel free to surf to my web-site … Tomas
If you want to increase your familiarity just keep
visiting this web site and be updated with the newest news posted
here.
My web blog … Bailey
Excellent website. Plenty of helpful info here. I am sending it to some friends ans additionally sharing in delicious.
And naturally, thanks on your sweat!
Here is my website – Dillon
My brother recommended I might like this blog. He was entirely right.
This post actually made my day. You can not imagine just
how much time I had spent for this information!
Thanks!
Feel free to surf to my website – Mabel
Hi to all, how is all, I think every one is getting more from this web site,
and your views are good in support of new people.
My web site – Latashia
We’re a bunch of volunteers and opening a new scheme in our community.
Your website offered us with useful information to work
on. You have performed a formidable activity and our
whole community might be thankful to you.
Also visit my web page :: Ute
Hi there everyone, it’s my first pay a quick visit at this web page,
and article is actually fruitful for me, keep up posting these articles.
Here is my blog post :: Remona
Now I am going to do my breakfast, after having my breakfast coming again to read other news.
My homepage … compra de oxybutynin en línea
Fine way of telling, and fastidious paragraph to take data regarding my presentation topic, which i am going to deliver in college.
Feel free to surf to my web-site :: diphenhydramine en vente au Maroc sans prescription
Greetings from Carolina! I’m bored to tears at work so I decided to browse your blog on my iphone during lunch break.
I really like the information you provide here and can’t wait to take
a look when I get home. I’m shocked at how fast your blog loaded on my cell
phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G ..
Anyhow, fantastic site!
Have a look at my web blog – prix du calan en France