Jerusalén, la cocina de todas las madres
El libro de Ottolenghi y Tamimi desafía al esnobismo culinario y eleva a cumbre gastronómica el recetario de las tres religiones del libro
i hay un libro de cocina fascinante es este, original de Yotam Ottolenghi y Sami Tamimi (editorial Salamandra, primera edición 2014), cuya edición de lujo es difícil de encontrar ya en las librerías. Son dos cocineros jerosolimitanos a los que solo distingue haber nacido en las mitades contrarias de la ciudad. Ottolenghi en la parte judía y Tamimi en el oriente, zona musulmana, donde se incluye la ciudad vieja. Amigos y socios, se conocieron en Londres veinte años después de haber salido de su ciudad. Por lo demás, comparten una pasión telúrica por la despensa mediterránea y el recetario de las tres religiones del libro, fundido en uno solo a fuerza de macerar los mismos ingredientes en un Jerusalén de 4.000 años, una de las ciudades más antiguas del planeta.
Es un libro de recetas y de fotos magníficas, sí. Pero sobre todo es un pequeño tratado de historias. Un libro donde se superponen las capas de las tradiciones gastronómicas de cada uno. Una obra donde funden sus recuerdos de la infancia hasta convertirlos en uno solo, donde gobiernan sus recetas admirados y postrados ante la tradición. Y caminan con el hummus convertido en su magdalena proustiana. De hecho, los autores confían en que la deliciosa crema de garbanzos sea algún día la argamasa de los jerosimilitanos. Aunque la cosa empezó mal: el libro no se ha traducido al hebreo por la exigencia de los ortodoxos de hacer versiones kosher de las recetas, a lo que los autores, con buen criterio, se negaron.
Jerusalén, el libro, es una invitación a viajar a la ciudad del mismo nombre, a los mediodías del viernes en el mercado Machne Yehuda, donde solo encontrará sopa con Kubbeh -que, en árabe, significa con forma de bola-; a probar los burekas – pastelillos de hojaldre rellenos de huevo duro, tomate especiado y salsa de tahina- del Bureka Mussa de la calle Jaffa, que pasa por ser el establecimiento más popular de la ciudad para estas elaboraciones; o a perseguir la ingente variedad de berenjenas que se despachan en los mercados de la ciudad y, que horneadas, asadas, rebozadas, fritas, en crema o convertidas en mermelada marroquí, eleva este humilde producto al cielo de los sentidos.
Aceite de oliva, bulgur, berenjenas asadas, verduras, frutas, arroz y aceitunas. Piñones, cebolla y cardamomo. Sésamo, tahina, cordero y caballa. Ciruelas y pistachos, clementinas y pepino. El edén. Una despensa para un libro canónico que combina recetas milenarias intactas con otras actualizadas desde el respeto. Una combinación de memoria, tradición, alta cocina y filosofía: «nadie posee un plato, porque es bastante probable que otra persona lo cocinara antes, y otra, antes aún», admiten los cocineros.
Además del contenido, la edición de tapa dura de Salamandra es una belleza. El trabajo de los editores convierte Jerusalén en un objeto de culto.
Nostalgia, memoria, tradición, respecto a la despensa mediterránea y fuego lento. Ottolenghi y Tamimi han escrito un libro sobre sus madres. Aunque no lo digan.
… Deliciosa publicación, en si misma.
Las berenjenas son una maravilla
Antonio, ¿Se puede conseguir el libro? ¿Dónde? Gracias
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