Bagá o el milagro de cocinar en una baldosa
Pedro Sánchez Jaén defiende su estrella Michelin con una cocina sorprendente por tercer año en su local de 45 metros en el centro de Jaén
n 45 metros cuadrados, Pedro Sánchez Jaén cocina con sencillez intuitiva, poniendo los sabores en todo lo alto, probando mil fórmulas para sus mar y montañas. En este establecimiento que ni es un bistró ni un bar ni una taberna ni exactamente un restaurante, aunque tiene un poco de cada, ofrece cada día 16 menús, ocho comensales en dos turnos de mediodía y noche en una mesa para cuatro personas y cuatro banquetas altas en una barra frente a los fogones. El local no da para más. La decisión de Pedro tampoco. Es lo que quiere. Todo está la vista, incluida la cocina. De alguna forma, el hecho de estar todos -los cinco empleados y los ocho clientes- en el mismo salón de estar condiciona el modo de cocinar. No hay espacio para almacenaje. Como Maradona, el cocinero jiennense también se revuelve en una baldosa. Se cocina al día a día. Llevan dos años y medio llenando a diario mediodía y noche. “No podemos estar cocinando fondos o platos con mucha intensidad de sabor que generen molestias a los comensales y eso nos ha llevado a un tipo de cocina más fresca”, explica Pedro Sánchez.
En este local de 45 metros en el casco antiguo de Jaén, acogedor y necesariamente recoleto, por nombre Bagá, Pedro Sánchez ha obtenido una estrella Michelin, que sigue defendiendo por tercer año consecutivo con una cocina honrada, intensa, plena de sabor y atrevida. Porque el cocinero jiennense toma más riesgos de los que parecería. Lo interesante es que lo resuelve bien. Como tres clásicos: la quisquilla de Motril con escabeche de perdiz, los riñones de choto con caviar o el tartar de vaca con anguila ahumada. O el más radical champiñón crudo aliñado con colágeno de merluza. Y ojo, que esos cruces tiene su miga.
Y es Bagá, al fin, el restaurante más pequeño de Europa con estrella de la guía francesa. Entras en Bagá y estás en casa. Pedro y su equipo son todo amabilidad y aún les asoma por encima de la mascarilla el entusiasmo por ver disfrutar a los comensales, que han de reservar con antelación si quieren disfrutar del trabajo de Pedro Sánchez. Una procesión de gastrónomos, críticos, chefs y aficionados llevan varios años peregrinando y preguntándose qué esta ocurriendo culinariamente en Jaén. La respuesta, en Bagá, que es un pequeño gran restaurante.
Pedro Sánchez Jaén, de 44 años, se formó en los fogones de Martín Berasategui, en el Relais Chateau de Bagnols, un castillo con ocho siglos erigido sobre los viñedos del Beaujolais, y en el Tragabuches de los orígenes de Dani García en Ronda, y en Casa Antonio (Jaén). Hasta que en 2018 se embarcó en Bagá: “Cuando abrimos Bagá no sabía que iba a ser así, al final me voy encontrando poco a poco con el camino actual. Abrir en ese sitio tiene dificultades enormes, había mas interrogantes que certezas. No sabíamos cómo íbamos a evolucionar, pero es cierto que a partir de cierta edad los cocineros cuando maduramos nos damos cuenta de muchas cosas y de que hay que disfrutar y no imponernos conseguir un plato con una creatividad angustiosa”. Para Sánchez, interesado en todas las cocinas –“desde un pollo en pepitoria hasta lo que hacen en Nerúa”– se trata de buscar nuevos márgenes para la expresión culinaria sin que pierda sentido. “Esto no se basa sólo en cocinar rico y no salirse de ahí. La cocina va mas allá de que todo tenga que estar obligatoriamente rico, hay muchos matices que tienen importancia: la textura de una verdura, la temperatura de una pieza que habitualmente tomamos en frío y la sirves caliente”, explica.
En Bagá predomina la sencillez. Los platos llevan los ingredientes justos. No hay concesiones barrocas. Predominan los vegetales, los puntos son exactos y es fácil observar que detrás de cada plato hay un trabajo de conceptualización. Hay un cabeza que piensa antes de cocinar. Nada se improvisa. Y su filosofía es dual: producto de cercanía -trabaja con hortelanos de la zona- pero sin renunciar al Mediterráneo de Granada y Almería. “Jaén tiene mucha historia en torno al producto marino, por nuestra cercanía al Mediterráneo y al ser provincia de paso. No me quiero negar a la bondad del mar, a esas grasas del mediterráneo que son increíbles. Si todos hiciéramos solo un diálogo gastronómico de proximidad terminaríamos haciendo lo mismo. Hay que evolucionar. Anclarse va contra la naturaleza del ser humano”.
Un menú tipo como el que sigue -que se ilustra en las fotografías- es una obra perfecta de concepto y sabor: Consomé de carruco , Tartaleta de maíz picante, buñuelo de morcilla en caldera, quisquilla de Motril en escabeche de perdiz, boniato asado en consomé de manzana, remolacha cocinada en jugo de ciruelas pasas y vinagre de rosas, pera oxidada con espuma de piel de anguila ahumada, ajoblanco de coco y almendras con granizado de piña y albahaca, champiñón crudo aliñado con colágeno de merluza, pimiento verde frito y ostra, panal de miel de acacia con praliné de ajo asado, ortiga de mar con gazpachuelo de espinacas, consomé de tomate con hueva fresca de trucha y pimienta de Sichuán, guiso de callos de bacalao con ajoatao , vaca madurada a la vainilla, endivias dulces y ciruelas pasas; pan aceite y chocolate: quenelle de helado de Aove, crema de naranja y bizcocho de chocolate.
Bagá va a seguir en sus 45 metros, gestionando su excelencia y también las dificultades de todo tipo -incluidas las económicas- asociadas a un local con estas características. Pedro escucha muchas propuestas para moverse o hacer otras cosas. No le interesa. “Hoy tengo la cabeza y lo sentidos en Bagá”, proclama sabiendo que hay “cierto orgullo” por su restaurante en Jaén. “Y eso me llega mucho porque me siento muy orgulloso de ser de Jaén”.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Disfruta de las Américas. Abrazos
Que habilidad en un restaurante tan pequeño, ofrecer esas exquisiteces que nos comentas. Enhorabuena a su emprendedor propietario.
Hacer sofisticado lo sencillo no es fácil.
Así es . Tiene mucho mérito Pedro y su equipo
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