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Clientes con hora de caducidad

Los restaurantes profundizan en el sistema de doble turno, que concede unos 90 minutos al comensal // Un sistema polémico que optimiza los recursos pero que colisiona con el placer y acaba con la sobremesa

a hostelería vive tiempos duros. Llamamos hostelería a un sector que parece abstracto. Hasta que hablamos de bares y restaurantes. A partir de ahí, ya es más fácil ponerle cara. La pelea del último año y medio para ellos se queda. El virus también fue letal para ellos. La patronal del sector calcula que 90.000 establecimientos echaron definitivamente el cierre durante 2020. La cifra, posiblemente, se corrija al alza cuando se tengan los datos definitivos de 2021.

Esto ocurre en un país de bares: Nestor Luján ofrece un pequeño censo en La vida cotidiana en la España del siglo de oro: en el Madrid de 1.600 había 391 tabernas. De ahí debe venir el clásico: “Madrid ciudad bravía, mil tabernas y una librería”. Aunque hoy las librerías no están amenazadas por la incultura sino por las ventas digitales.

Hoy se considera a España el país con mas bares y restaurantes por persona del mundo. En concreto uno por cada 175 habitantes. En total 277.539, con 1,7 millones de empleados y el 4,7 del PIB.

Los datos no son menores y, como se ha dicho, el sector está muy castigado. Hasta ahí los hechos.


Uno de los cambios de hábitos más profundos que ha experimentado buena parte del sector es la de doblar los turnos, una práctica que históricamente, al menos en España, se circunscribía casi en exclusiva a los chiringuitos de verano y algunos locales de aluvión. En los destinos más turísticos los restaurantes más solicitados siempre han tenido dos turnos, pero el primero era de forma natural para la clientela extranjera, que en su mayoría no termina de acoplar sus horarios de ingesta a la costumbre española ni por vacaciones. Y así, esos dos turnos convivían perfecta y armónicamente. Pero poco más. Hace unos años, muchos restaurantes de nivel -vaya, con cubiertos de sesenta euros para arriba- ya empezaron a conceder turnos de noventa minutos (en algunos un máximo de dos horas) para comer o cenar. Aún no había llegado la covid. Pero, ahora, definitivamente, se ha extendido este sistema. Especialmente en casi todos los grupos empresariales que gestionan varias marcas: tienen el sistema muy pensado y no suelen fallar en la calidad. Teóricamente tienen los mecanismos engrasados para cumplir con los tiempos, que es tarea bien complicada. Cualquier retraso en el primer turno convierte los retrasos en el antiguo aeropuerto de Barajas en un juego de niños. Si todo va bien, cumplen. Pero también se han presenciado descarnados dramas griegos con decenas de personas malhumoradas en la barra porque su mesa acumula un buen retraso. En los bares de menús a 15 o 20 euros la cosa tiene más sentido y es fácil de entender la rotación. Pero no en locales donde te vas a abrir en canal y la tarjeta va a sufrir un serio arreón.

Se comprende que con el precio de los alquileres de los locales, los impuestos y los gastos que tienen traten de optimizar al máximo los recursos. Cada metro cuadrado, cada minuto del día, cada hora de empleado. Todo cuenta. En la hostelería no es oro todo lo que reluce. Todos tenemos amigos propietarios de restaurantes y sabemos lo que les cuesta llegar a fin de mes. A unos más que otros, como todo. Pero es un asunto que tiene su miga. Y que también merece la pena mirarlo desde el punto de vista del cliente y, sobre todo, del concepto del disfrute de una buena mesa. Es curioso como los mejores restaurantes se han afanado en vendernos -y con razón- la idea de que comer allí es una experiencia irrepetible, algo más que abrevar y seguir el camino. Muchos de ellos, hoy abonados a esta práctica, hacen justo lo contrario de lo que predicaban.

No merece la pena abordar este tema desde el punto de vista de los derechos. Posiblemente la discusión legal sobre si pueden obligarte abandonar la mesa a los 90 minutos tendría recorrido legal, siempre que no seas un apalancategui de los que se tiran una velada con dos cañas y un paquete de patatas fritas ocupando la mesa. Pero, en todo caso, lo cierto es que cuando reservas te advierten claramente del tiempo de que dispones de la mesa y te advierten de que si te retrasas más de diez minutos pierdes la reserva. Si lo aceptas, lo coherente es adaptarte a las normas. La alternativa es no aceptarlo y buscar en la amplia oferta disponible de locales que no limitan el tiempo. A los primeros no les va a faltar público para el segundo turno y a ti no te va a faltar un buen menú que llevarte a la boca. Y te vas a evitar observar como los camareros se precipitan al retirar los platos y comer a ritmo de récord del mundo de 100 metros.


Durante el verano que se despide el sistema ha sacado las garras y ha generado no pocas frustraciones. Si compartir mesa con amigos siempre es una de las ceremonias mas perfectas que existen para disfrutar, cenar en verano sublima la experiencia. Pero una cena de verano, con las chicharras cantando, el aroma a jazmín y la brisa del mar, exige su tiempo. Celebramos la vida. Y la celebración de la vida no se puede programar. No se le puede poner un contador de 90 minutos, como si fuera una olla express. Si después de la cena no puedes seguir la conversación con un destilado -o con un refresquito, igual da- casi no merece la pena. Cuando tienes invitados es una descortesía decirles a la hora y media que hay que recoger los bártulos, justo cuando la conversación más reconforta. Es mejor montar la cena en casa, sin límites. Sin sentirse observado por el señor del reloj. Sin la presión de ver a otras familias de pie, a unos metros, esperando a que te levantes para sentarse ellos. Ese sistema colisiona directamente con la idea del disfrute y con todo lo que representa ese instante de felicidad que es una cena plena y feliz.

Hay pocas cosas tan españolas como la sobremesa. Una sobremesa es en sí misma una medida. O mejor dicho, una forma de medir la vida, con sus propias magnitudes y escalas, perfecta y variable. Puede durar media hora, una, dos o enganchar con la cena. De hecho, esas últimas son las mejores. Una renuncia a la sobremesa es una propuesta de desnaturalización de algunos de nuestros mejores hábitos. Muchas tertulias -literarias, taurinas, deportivas, políticas – nacieron al calor de la mesa. Para colmo, el sistema se carga también el aliciente previo del aperitivo perezoso en la mesa: ese preámbulo sagrado que te introduce -vermú y gilda, caña y pincho de tortilla, jerez y taquitos de jamón- en el mundo del placer.

Ir a un restaurante es mucho más que pedir mesa, ordenar el menú, pagar y dejar la silla caliente al que viene detrás. Es preferible el más humilde de los bares y restaurantes, con unas sardinas a la brasa y una copa de vino, que ir a cenar con el ánimo atravesado porque sabes que tienes fecha de caducidad, que estás monitorizado y minutado. Como si un cliente fuera un huevo pasado por agua.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio Guardar y salir

92 Comentarios

  1. Isabel el septiembre 11, 2021 a las 11:26 am

    Absolutamente cierto. Ni el más exquisito menú, se iguala al placer de compartir con amigos la mesa.¡ y más en estos momentos que hemos pasado., que nos han coartado y cortado la continuidad de los encuentros. Nos hemos cogido con ganas; de vernos de contarnos, de palparnos, ¡nos hemos reencontrado!.
    Es un error poner el tic tac, Ya solo falta que junto en la columna del precio, pongan el tiempo en el que te lo tienes que comer… Ya hemos renunciado a más de una reserva por esta cuestión….

  2. Ignacio Moreno el septiembre 11, 2021 a las 5:32 pm

    Sin sobremesa, la comida resulta coja y triste. Un café tranquilo con una amena charla, siempre resulta más agradable, oportuno y aconsejable.

  3. Eduardo el septiembre 11, 2021 a las 5:59 pm

    Genial, si vas a poder disfrutar de todos los placeres de la mesa¿para que ir a un sitio caro?

  4. Juan Manuel el septiembre 11, 2021 a las 8:12 pm

    Antonio, te apoyo con la rotundidad más rotunda. Me he divertido mucho leyendo cada párrafo.

  5. Anónimo el septiembre 11, 2021 a las 9:49 pm

    Y algunos lo tenemos claro, solo vamos donde nos dejan una buena sobremesa y un rinconcito para disfrutar de los amigos y de un habano.

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