Cocineras de toda la vida: la generación de acero
El portal cosasdecome.es publica la historia de trece cocineras de Cádiz y Sevilla que han mantenido el recetario tradicional mientras han sacado adelante sus negocios y a sus familias
on posiblemente las cocineras menos reconocidas de la cocina española. Ellas y otras muchas como ellas a lo largo y ancho de esa peculiar geografía española que tiene sus coordenadas marcadas por las ventas en las zonas rurales, los bares de barrio en las ciudades y las tascas de toda la vida. No van a obtener nunca una estrella Michelin, las editoriales especializadas no publicarán sus recetarios, no llevan chaquetilla sino delantales, no serán invitadas como jurados a Master chef y su minuto de fama se queda en casa a la hora del puchero. En cambio, merecen un monumento. Herederas de la cocina de sus abuelas, hundiendo las raíces en los platos tradicionales del sur de Andalucía de finales del XIX, no tienen formación específica culinaria. Todo lo han aprendido al calor de la lumbre, como pinches de guardia en la cocina familiar, pelando patatas, observando y probando. Aunque en realidad, estas señoras nacieron sabiendo. Su mejor reconocimiento es que sus bares y sus ventas siempre están a tope. No cabe ni un alma.
Forman parte de una generación de acero – entre los 70 y casi los 90 años -, la que nunca se quebró. Al mal tiempo, buena cara. Sin que nadie les explicara lo políticamente correcto y lo conveniente del significado de la palabra conciliación llevan conciliando toda la vida: la cocina del bar, la de casa, la educación de los hijos, la costura doméstica y la intendencia del día a día. Y en muchos casos, también la gestión del establecimiento.
El portal cosasdecome.es (sin la tilde en la e por la dictadura digital) ha editado un libro digital, que regalarán a sus suscriptores antes de ponerlo a la venta, en el que recogen la historia de catroce de estas mujeres de Cádiz y Sevilla, todas ya en la edad de las chicas de oro. No están todas las que son, pero son todas las que están. La alineación es indiscutible: Maruja Gallardo (Venta El toro / Vejer de la Frontera); Antonia Moreno (Blanco y Verde / Conil); Manuela Estudillo (Bar Cabaña /Cádiz), Loli Rincón (Manolo Mayo /Los Palacios), Teresa Montero (Venta El Soldao /Medina Sidonia), Elvira Loureiro (La Gallega /San Fernando); Encarna Olid (Bar Manolo /Olvera); Maribel Clavijo (Los cazadores/Villamartín); Rosa Prius (Casa El Naca La Pastora San Fernando); Conchi Vera (Casa Verita /Arahal); Lela Fontao y Conchi Torres (Venta Vargas/San Fernando); Carmen Rodríguez y Estrella López (La Escalera/Bollullos de la Mitación). El libro digital lo lanzaron en su página web el 8 de marzo, día de la mujer.
“Estas catorce mujeres de las que hablamos en el libro tienen un rasgo común, que utilizan en sus platos un mismo ingrediente, que siempre añaden al final, sea plato de carne o de pescao: la ternura. Es quizás, lo que las distingue, esa capacidad de darle a los platos de sus restaurantes un toque que te recuerda a lo que te pone tu madre en casa cuando llegas del colegio y te apetece calor de puchero, que es otra forma de abrazar que tienen las madres”, dice en su prólogo el periodista Pepe Monforte, editor del portal gastronómico.
La mayoría llegó a ser cocinera profesional por casualidad, por avatares de la vida o por pura necesidad. Sus prácticas son excelentes, porque llevan muchos años haciendo lo que hoy se airea pomposamente como tendencias gastro. De hecho, nadie les contó nunca qué era aquello de los productos kilómetro-cero, pero nunca se les ha ocurrido utilizar materia prima que no fuera la que da su entorno directo o la que traen los productores del pueblo del lado. Que no les hablen con tono circunspecto de la cocina de aprovechamiento, que es lo que vienen haciendo toda la vida. ¿Cocina de temporada? Claro. Las setas cuando el bosque da setas, la sardina en verano, que es cuando tiene grasa; las habas frescas entre abril y mayo; la perdiz roja entre octubre y enero, que hay veda; y el melón y la sandía para julio y agosto. Incluso son unas pioneras de la sostenibilidad: cocina de leña en algunos casos, nada de alimentos procesados ni aditivos químicos y algo tan ecológico como es la reutilización de los históricos platos de duralex. En algunas ventas los platos deben ser también del siglo pasado, como lo acreditan las decenas de rayones de su superficie y sus bordes irregulares.
“La idea surgió casi de casualidad: en nuestra web enlazamos los temas que guardan relación y cuando hicimos un reportaje de la Venta El toro comprobamos que había muchas historias similares. Los perfiles de ellas son muy parecidos y sus historias se parecen”, explica la periodista Ángeles Peiteado, coordinadora de la publicación, quien destaca que “todas son unas valientes, unas luchadoras, que desde niñas afrontaron la vida con ganas y fuerza, con muchas cargas familiares detrás”.
Maruja Gallardo, por ejemplo, empezó a cocinar en su casa a los 13 años, cuando se quedó huérfana y apencó para alimentar a sus ocho hermanos. Lleva 40 años a pie de venta. Ella sí tuvo su minuto de fama internacional. Un minuto que se prolonga ya por casi diez años, desde que el cocinero José Andrés, un habitual de la zona de Vejer de la frontera, elevó al olimpo de la cocina popular sus huevos fritos con patatas fritas, chorizo, morcilla y lomo de orza. Maruja no los fríe con puntilla, los hace a temperatura media, confitados, y las patatas las mece en la sartén lentamente “sin arrebatarlas”. Lo que fue una humilde venta de paso para gentes del campo que iban camino del pueblo sigue siendo una humilde venta pero con un plato estrella, convertido “en lugar de culto” según The Guardian. A 8,50 euros el plato, con su jamón del bueno.
La historia de Teresa Montero, 81 años, es la del arroz servido en lebrillo de barro en la Venta El Soldao, en una pedanía de Medina Sidonia. Lo cocina con pollo o conejo. Es monumental. Como el faisán estofado o su célebre almuerzo campero: hígado y carne de cerdo aliñada con ajo, pimentón, orégano y vinagre sobre una fuente de patatas fritas. Todo light, eso sí. En San Fernando, Elvira Loureiro, la gallega de A Estrada que da nombre a La gallega, triunfa una y otra vez con cuatro clásicos de la cocina galaica: pulpo, empanada, tortilla y papas a la gallega. Cuando se quedó viuda, con dos hijos, se remangó y hasta hoy. Conseguir un sitio en su local de la Plaza de las Vacas es más difícil que sacar entradas para el concierto de año nuevo en la Musikverein de Viena.
En La Escalera, en el sevillano pueblo de Bollullos de la Mitación,Carmen Rodríguez y Estrella López tienen un doctorado en pollo en salsa. Atienden hasta 60 personas cada día. Encienden la chimenea en invierno y la apagan cuando florecen los naranjos. El local, que fue un despacho de vinos cuando abrió sus puertas en 1952 , siguen sirviendo su propio mosto, de uva garrido fino y moscatel. Para Conchi Vera, de Casa Verita, de Arahal, el corte del jamón no tiene secretos. Aprendió con su padre. Tenía 13 años. Calcula que ha cortado ya 13.000 jamones. El local era tan pequeño que a veces no tenían ni donde apoyarlo y lo cortaban al aire, apoyado al hombro, como un stradivarius de bellota. Hace unos años abrieron web. Los principales compradores los tienen hoy en Francia, Alemania, Austria y Alemania.
Loli Rincón, del restaurante Manolo Mayo en Los Palacios y Villafranca, empezó ayudando a su suegra Emilia en el restaurante familiar, hasta que se quedó al frente de la cocina de uno de los restaurantes emblemáticos de Andalucía. Experta en el famoso tomate pintón de Los palacios , conocido como el “bombón colorao”, de los que los agricultores palaciegos produjeron mil toneladas el año pasado, ha conseguido trabajarlo hasta en cinco texturas. El plato, que quedó finalista en el concurso de tapas de Valladolid, se presenta en forma de gelatina de tomate frito, como mousse, confitado y en tartar, acompañado de atún rojo de almadraba a baja temperatura. Loli ha sofisticado con éxito la carta de Manolo Mayo: piononos de esturión con crujiente de camarones, pero también trabaja con éxito los arroces de perdiz o las carnes. Curiosamente, Loli, cuando se agobia por algo se relaja yéndose al huerto a darle al azadón.
Lela Fontao y Conchi Torres son las cocineras que guardan la receta de las celebérrimas tortillitas de camarones de la Venta Vargas, en San Fernando, el santuario de Camarón de la isla. Esa filigrana de harina de trigo y harina de garbanzos con las que muchos se atreven pero con las que muy pocos se coronan. Los huevos glaseados con bechamel o los patés de cabracho, perdiz y oca de Maribel Clavijo, cocinera y pintora, en Los Cazadores de Villamartín; el cuchareo canónico de Rosa Prius, 80 años, en Casa El Naca la Pastora de la Real Isla de León; la tortilla mixta y el solomillo relleno – ajo, pimentón, tomillo y manteca de cerdo – de Encarna Olid en el Bar Manolo de Olvera; los pulpitos de la huerta (los tronchos de las tagarninas cocidos y empanados), las papas con moscas (un guiso de verduras con oréganos de origen campesino muy popular en la zona durante la posguerra) o la berza con boniato de Antonia Moreno en el conileño Blanco y Verde o el menudo, las lentejas y el puchero de Manuela Estudillo en el Bar Cabaña de Cádiz son otras cumbres de la cocina popular del sur de Andalucía.
Como dice Peiteado, son mujeres” a las que les cuesta mucho salir a la palestra, porque siempre han estado en el anonimato, sin darse importancia pero a la vez conservando un patrimonio gastronómico impresionante”. Pura gastronomía de cercanía, donde el éxito se mide en la intensidad “del rebañazo que presenta el plato cuando regresa vacío de vuelta a la cocina”, según Monforte.
Cocineras, empresarias y madres de familia. Y sin quejarse. Como dirían en una Escuela de Negocios: catorce casos de éxito.
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Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Magnífico como siempre querido Antonio. Me permito dos recomendaciones de Ventas en la provincia de Cádiz.
Venta Luis en el Pinar de la Breña y Venta la Higuera en el Colorado. Ambas, para mojar pan como dice el amigo Monforte.
Como siempre, querido Antonio: impecable en la forma y muy rico (en ambos sentidos) en el fondo. Pienso probarlo todo, nuevos itinerarios para mi próxima visita a Cádiz!
Qué maravilla, querido Antonio! Que no nos falten nunca!
Antonio, muchísimas gracias por este regalo. Un abrazo metio en mollete bien enfoscado con manteca colorá
Si Señor! Qué merecido reconocimiento a estas cocineras.. Gracias una vez más por hacerme disfrutar.
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