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Cuando la religión se adelantó al veganismo

La prohibición católica de prohibir el consumo de carne en cuaresma ha dado origen a un recetario suculento de platos en todo el mundo

esde tiempos inmemoriales en las casas españolas no se come carne durante la cuaresma. Es el tiempo que va desde el miércoles de ceniza hasta la hora nona (sobre las 15.00, nueve horas después de la salida del sol) del Jueves Santo. Aunque mejor podría decirse que no se comía: la pura obediencia religiosa ha ido diluyéndose en el tiempo, especialmente desde la llegada de la democracia y la separación Iglesia-Estado. No obstante, muchas familias mantienen la obligación que establece el artículo 1.251 del Código de Derecho Canónico, que fue promulgado por Benedicto XV en 1917, aunque ese ayuno y esas limitaciones se remontan al siglo II de nuestra era. Son 40 días de privaciones y sacrificios para preparar la pasión, muerte y resurrección de Jesucristo. Como cuarenta días pasó Jesús en el desierto, cuarenta anduvo por el desierto el pueblo israelita o cuarenta días con sus noches duró el diluvio universal.

El simbolismo religioso ha perdido fuelle en todo lo relativo a la abstinencia por la carne (en sus múltiples variedades), pero en muchas casas se conservan estas normas, aunque más apegadas a la cultura y la tradición, que a un severo espíritu marcado por la abstinencia canónica. Sin necesidad de recurrir a la bula que, por una cantidad que oscilaba entre los cincuenta céntimos y las diez pesetas, te autorizaba a atacar un solomillo. La Cuaresma se representa gráficamente como una vieja arrugada que porta una cesta de verduras en una mano y un bacalao en la otra. Tiene siete piernas, una por cada semana de ayuno: en los antiguos calendarios, cada semana se le recortaba una pierna. Y así hasta hoy,

Representación gráfica de la cuaresma

Lo cierto es que ese tiempo histórico -entre la religión y la costumbre- ha producido una cocina propia de la cuaresma. El bacalao en la mano de la representación de la vieja Cuaresma no engaña. El plato más popular es el llamado potaje de vigilia, o lo que es lo mismo el guiso de garbanzos con bacalao y espinacas, que suele cocinarse cada viernes durante ese periodo. Una exquisitez con una base de sofrito de tomate, cebolla, pimiento verde y puerros; espinaca fresca, garbanzos y un buen bacalao, que hasta mayo está de temporada y por lo tanto es buena época para comerlo. Encontrará centenares de variantes de la receta, pero la sustancia no cambia. En algunos sitios no le ponen espinaca, en otros sería pecado no hacerlo. En Sevilla, en el tapeo primaveral está omnipresente la cazuelita de garbanzos con espinacas. Hay quien le añade judías blancas o huevo duro. El pimentón, al gusto. Y así, como ocurre con cada plato de la cocina popular. En Aragón se le añade un pequeño ingenio muy popular en esta tierra: los huevos tontos, que se preparan con pan rallado, ajo y perejil antes de freírlos como un buñuelo. Y se les agrega al plato. Hay quien le añade bacalao desmigado a la masa. El bacalao al pil-pil – en el País Vasco tienen la llave de esta emulsión mágica- , en buñuelo, con tomate o rebozado también es plato común en estas fechas. En general, en muchos países europeos se repite el uso de tres alimentos “pascuales”: el huevo duro, el pan y el bacalao en salazón.

En algunas localidades de Castilla-León, con procesiones de madrugada como Zamora, León o Palencia, es típico acabar la noche comiendo sopas de ajo en un cuenco de barro. Un clásico castellano: pan del día anterior, aceite, pimentón, huevos, sal y ajo. Un reconstituyente tras una larga noche a la intemperie. En La Rioja, durante la cuaresma, hacen sus patatas a la riojana, ese guiso tan sencillo como sublime con patatas chascadas y chorizo, pero precisamente sin el chorizo ni rastro de carne. Temporalmente son “patatas riojanas viudas”.

En Canarias el viernes santo se cocina el sancocho. Cosa típica que no falta en ese día de celebración familiar. Se suele utilizar cherne o congrio, que se sirve con papas y batatas, verduras y mojo verde. Y, por supuesto, con la pella de gofio.

El hornazo es un plato muy semanasantero. Esa especie de empanada rellena de chacinas, panceta, lomo y huevo, convenientemente horneada, se toma en Salamanca los llamados Lunes de Aguas, que es el lunes que sigue al Domingo de Resurrección. Es una especie de reencuentro con la carne. El fin de la época de prohibiciones: la historia es curiosa porque procede de una pragmática de Felipe II por la que ordenaba expulsar a las prostitutas de la ciudad durante la Cuaresma. Se las llevaba al Arrabal, al otro lado del río Tormes. Hasta que el Lunes de Aguas los estudiantes iban a “rescatarlas” en barcas engalanadas y con ese plato típico debajo del brazo como si fuera una suerte de ofrenda o sabe dios qué. De aquellos polvos, estos hornazos. También para celebrar el fin de todas las abstinencias en Valencia y en el Maestrazgo aragonés es típica la longaniza de Pascua, elaborada con magro de cerdo.

En La Mancha es plato del recetario clásico de cuaresma el bacalao manchego, potente y sabroso, o la refrescante pipirrana, con su tomate aliñado, pimiento, cebolla y trozos de pescado. Si pasa por Ciudad Real, pida el Tiznao, un plato cervantino. Ya en el Quijote, el ingenioso hidalgo daba cuenta con gran deleite de ese plato con bacalao en salazón, patatas, pimientos rojos secos, pimentón, ajo y cebolla.

En realidad, es casi ilimitado el recetario vinculado a la Semana Santa en toda España. Pero no solo, cada país tiene sus propias derivadas y tradiciones. Los judíos, por ejemplo, celebran la Pascua conmemorando la libertad del pueblo hebreo de la esclavitud a la que lo tenía sometido Egipto. Es el Pésaj, que se celebra con una comida familiar en la que no se pueden comer alimentos derivados de cereales fermentados: es un precepto que recuerda cuando los hebreos escaparon de Egipto, liderados por Moisés, a toda prisa y sin tiempo para cocer sus panes. Durante esos días solo pan ácimo: harina, agua y horno, sin levadura. Suele acompañarse de cordero con hierbas amargas. Igualmente en el Sabbat y demás festividades cocinan el Gefilte fish: una especie de albóndiga horneada de pescado molido con cebolla, zanahoria y especias.

Pasioncitos y Tentaciones, dulces típicos de esta época en Morata de Tajuña

Los alemanes consumen en estas fechas unas tortas hechas con pasta de patatas, cebolla, huevo, perejil y harina de trigo. Cada cual la acompaña con lo que le place: como acompañamiento para guisos o con compota de manzana. Suelen hacerse el viernes de Pascua. En la muy católica Polonia el plato típico del lunes de Pascua es el borsch blanco, una sopa con crema agria y salchicha ahumada. En nuestro país vecino del norte, Francia, cuna del mayor refinamiento gastronómico, el jueves santo da paso al Le navarin dágneau, un cordero lechal estofado con verduras. Y en toda Latinoamérica se sustituye la carne por platos de pescados, ceviches, arroces o por ejemplo por los romeritos con mole mexicanos, que se elaboran con la planta del mismo nombre y se comen con tortas de papa y atún o camarón seco. Los portugueses cocinan cordero y bacalao a tutiplén. Y en algunas regiones, como Vila Real o Tras-os-Montes se encuentra una rareza llamada Folar, un pan salado que se rellena de múltiples formas: con huevo duro, salpicón de chacinas, pollo, conejo, ternera, canela e hinojo.

Los italianos, por su parte, le pegan más al dulce pascual (Dolci pasquali): la colomba, la pastiera, el casatiello o la cuddura sicialiana.

Y en cuestión de postres dulces de cuaresma, España es una potencia mundial. A las sacrosantas torrijas hay que añadir esa finura  de masa frita llamada pestiño, en cuyo recetario mejor no entrar porque los hay para todos los gustos. En Morata de Tajuña (Madrid) se persiguen los pasioncitos y las tentaciones, que son los dulces de la Pasión de Jesús: pasteles en forma de cruz o capirotes con chocolate. Causan furor. En Extremadura, tanto en Semana Santa como en Tosantos se hacen los Huesillos, una suerte de rosquilla pero en forma de hueso. Los malagueños le pegan fuerte a los borrachuelos rellenos de cabello de Ángel. Y por añadir dos dulces más, por un lado, la Toña alicantina, una especie de bollo suizo redondo y orondo que veces se aromatiza con naranja o azahar. Y por último, las monas de Pascua, dulce indispensable en Cataluña, Aragón y parte del Levante. Los mejores pasteleros catalanes -como L´atelier, Escribá, Hoffman, Natcha, Chocolate factory u Oriol Balaguer– han elevado a la categoría de obra de arte alguna de sus creaciones. La Mona también simboliza el adiós al periodo de abstinencia y privaciones. Pero hoy han trascendido del clásico huevo -que simboliza el comienzo de la vida- de chocolate a un estadio de vanguardia estética y creación gastronómica impresionante.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

Mona de Pascua de Chocolate Factory en Barcelona

Mona de Pascua de Escribá

Representación de la cuaresma, con sus siete piernas y el bacalao en la mano

Representación de la pugna entre la Cuaresma y las Carnestolendas. La abstinencia vs los excesos carnales

Una Mona de vanguardia

Otro trabajo de Oriol Balaguer

Bandeja de pestiños. Más típico lo hay

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