Échele huevos a la tortilla
El Día Mundial de la Tortilla de patatas celebra el plato preferido por los españoles / Es el elemento más definitorio de la unidad de España / Los concebollistas (71%) vencen a los sincebollistas (17%) / La tortilla nació en Villanueva de la Serena, ha dicho el CSIC
uando los expertos buscan elementos que definan la identidad española se detienen, cándidamente, en la lengua, la bandera y la historia común. En el acervo de elementos políticos, sociales y culturales y compartidos a lo largo de siglos, en el conjunto de bienes morales que supuestamente nos unen. Con éxito, se incorporan a esa búsqueda de lo que somos todos los hitos de nuestra historia reciente -la Constitución, la diversidad, el Estado de las Autonomías- que representan la argamasa moderna. También nos une el dolor compartido y las alegrías vividas. Los éxitos deportivos y la universalidad de nuestros escritores, actores, pintores y demás referentes imperecederos… de acuerdo, pero ¿Y la tortilla? ¿dónde está la tortilla española en esa relación de hitos que nos identifican e igualan a todos los españoles? Ciudadanos libres e iguales, pero iguales sobre todo a la hora de la tortilla. La tortilla: socorrido e igualitario plato: en los palacios, cabañas y claustros del Tenorio además de damas despechadas se cocinaban tortillas, empezando por la Hostería del Laurel de Sevilla, donde Don Juan relataba sus fechorías a Don Luis Mejía.
La tortilla española no entiende de nacionalismos ni de lenguas. No existe la tortilla de patatas vasca ni balear. La receta es la misma, solo con la enorme e insalvable grieta que enfrenta a concebollistas versus sincebollistas. Porque el concebollismo y su contrario son como hijos escindidos de una misma madre. Un cisma en la iglesia tortillera: obispos con espumadera disputándose el favor pontificio por la ortodoxia de una receta. Pero por lo demás, obviando esa guerra incruenta, la tortilla nos une desde los Pirineos hasta Tarifa. Vascos, madrileños, andaluces, catalanes, valencianos, extremeños…la tortilla de patatas es el símbolo más identitario de los españoles. Ni el Estado de las autonomías y sus estatutos han conseguido que haya 17 recetas. Solo son estilos, variaciones metodológicas, pequeños giros de guión, amaneramientos a la hora de cuajarla más o menos. Disgresiones estilísticas, vaya. Pero la patata, el huevo, el aceite y la sal están ahí, viendo pasar el tiempo como la Puerta de Alcalá, inasequibles al desaliento. Si Concha Piquer no metió la tortilla de patatas en su celebre En tierra extraña para celebrar la nochebuena en Nueva York fue, seguramente, porque no rimaba. “La tortilla es el as de oro de la cocina española” proclamó el gastrónomo Néstor Luján. Punto.
El miércoles se celebró el Día Internacional de la Tortilla de patatas, también llamado el Día de la tortilla en algunos lares. Circulan mil versiones, aunque algunas fiables sitúan el comienzo de la celebración de tan magna festividad -aunque desgraciadamente es laborable- en el siglo XI. Y en otros sitios se proclama el culto a la tortilla el domingo previo a la semana santa o el jueves lardero, que es el jueves previo al miércoles de ceniza e inicio del carnaval. Aunque lo del siglo XI no se compadece mucho con otro dato: se ha atribuido históricamente al cocinero belga Lancelot de Casteau la publicación de la primera receta de la tortilla de patatas, en 1.604. ¡Quietos¡ No se amontonen. Que la cultísima Ana Vega “Biscayenne” se leyó su recetario ‘Ouverture de cuisine‘ (obertura de cocina) y se cepilló el mito: el ingrediente que el belga llamaba tartoifle eran trufas y no patatas. Sería, pues, una tortilla belga -también le añadía mantequilla y hierbas- pero no española. Tortilla valona, si quieren. El siguiente hito se le adjudica al general Zumalacárregui durante las guerras carlistas, en 1817, quien poco más o menos se habría quitado el hambre en una posada mezclando patatas y huevos -lo que había- en una sartén. Tampoco parece especialmente fiable ese origen. La data más acreditada la proporcionó en 2008 Javier López Linage, científico titular del Centro de Ciencias Humanas y Sociales del CSIC. Sostiene López Linage que dos terratenientes extremeños, Joseph de Tena Godoy y Malfeyto y el marqués de Robledo, como ya hicieron otros ilustrados en la búsqueda de un alimento nutritivo, barato y abundante que quitara las hambrunas de finales del XVIII, inventaron unas tortitas con patatas y huevo que pasaban por la sartén. “La patata ha salvado del hambre a medio planeta, y además ha propiciado el nacimiento de grandes platos”, asegura el científico. Y fue en Extremadura, tierra de conquistadores -las primeras patatas llegaron desde Perú- y en concreto en Villanueva de la Serena (Badajoz). Para que no se olvide el ayuntamiento erigió un monumento de cinco metros de alto con una cuña de tortilla de hormigón y un tenedor de hierro gigante.
En todo caso, las cosas serias, como esta, hay que abordarlas con personal especializado. Es el caso de Álvaro de Jorge, presidente del Observatorio de la tortilla de patatas. Su hermano David, cocinero y afilado observador gastronómico, es el asesor técnico. “Mi padre era de el Ferrol y desde que tengo memoria en casa hemos tenido siempre adoración por la patata en cualquier elaboración posible y especialmente por la tortilla. Cuando íbamos al Yola David mi padre y yo le pedíamos que la bandeja de pinchos de tortilla no la dejara en la barra, que la trajera a la mesa y nos la comíamos entera”, asegura. Álvaro tiene “tal adoración” por el manjar español que se ha tatuado una cuña de tortilla en una pierna y un dibujo de los ingredientes en la otra. “Yo he bajado 80 kilos en ocho años y lo único que no dejé de comer fue al menos una tortilla de patatas a la semana. Y que no se olvide: la tortilla es una, grande y con cebolla”, proclama. David de Jorge, que escribió un libro dedicado a la tortilla de patatas con ilustraciones de Javirroyo, va más allá: “Yo creo que si el mundo es justo, un día la tortilla de patatas se elevará, flotará en el aire, empezará a subir y entonces todos tendremos que rendirle culto divino y fundaremos la iglesia de la tortillología”.
Una encuesta de Sondea para Coca-Cola hace unos años estableció que la tortilla es el plato favorito de los españoles, elegida por el 45% entre 40 platos más. El estudio arrojó más datos: el 86% de los españoles asegura saber hacer una tortilla, el 71% la prefiere con cebolla, el 17% sin cebolla y el 14% con pimiento. Andalucía, Madrid y Cataluña figuran como comunidades donde mejor se cocina la totilla y se prefiere, por este orden, en pincho, a cuadraditos y en bocadillo. La mayoría la prefiere poco hecha. Y un dato curioso: los murcianos -algunos de ellos ya gozan de bien ganada fama de lanzar con destreza huesos de aceituna- son los que se comen la tortilla más rápido: en nueve minutos, dos menos que la media nacional. Los aragoneses son los más lentos: trece minutos. ¿Quieren un dato más? Puro frikismo: Según la web frikipandi, durante el último año los españoles le hemos preguntado a Alexa por la receta de tortilla de patatas 43.804 veces. Y algo más por si es de su interés: el Colegio Oficial de Tapatólogos de la provincia de Cádiz, bajo la dirección de Pepe Monforte, expide el título oficial de tortillólogo, una vez acreditados conocimientos prácticos y teóricos suficientes.
Aparte del concebollismo y el sincebollismo, la de Betanzos, por ejemplo, tiene denominación propia: cuajada solo a lo justo, con patata gallega cortada en lascas finas y buenos huevos. Otras variedades frecuentes: con chorizo, con ajos sal, pimento y vinagre; rellena al gusto; con guisantes; o la célebre tortilla deconstruida de Ferrán Adría. Pero la tortilla-tortilla es lo que es: patatas y huevo y cebolla al gusto. Y ya. El recetario y la enumeración de bares y restaurantes donde la hacen de rechupete sería muy prolija. Por eso es mejor insistir en que la mejor es la de la madre o la suegra de cada uno. Pero en cualquier caso, échele huevos. No sea miserable, que son baratos y la mitad del éxito de la tortilla.
El escritor Xabier Zabaltza -“tortillómano conspicuo”- recuerda cuatro horribles meses viviendo en un pueblecito inglés sin hincarse una tortilla como dios manda. Hasta el día que se buscó los ingredientes e invitó a toda la colonia española disponible: “Las diferencias entre vascos, catalanes, aragoneses, andaluces, gallegos etc.. se diluían ante un buen bocado de la susodicha, cual pipa de la paz panibérica (..) y aún hay quien duda que España sea un nación”, escribió en El País ponderando el incontrovertido invento nacional, “mientras exista la tortilla existirá Carpetovetonia, mal que le pese a McDonald´s. Así que tenga usted mucho cuidado, querido lector, porque si le gusta la tortilla de patata tal vez sea usted español sin saberlo”.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio






Con una buena tortilla de patatas o con dos huevos fritos con patatas, siempre, de lujo para quedar satisfecho.
Y ya con unas lonchitas de jamón del bueno por encima… bocatto di cardinale!
Antonio. Yo soy testigo de lo bien que haces tú la tortilla de patata. Bravo!!!
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And some features of domestic policy are only the method of political participation and are described as detailed as possible. Thus, the new model of organizational activity creates the need to include a number of extraordinary measures in the production plan, taking into account the complex of tasks set by the company.
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