El árbol que nos salvó de la barbarie
Rosa Vañó construye un hermoso texto sobre el origen, la simbología y la cultura del olivo y el Mediterráneo en su discurso de ingreso en la Real Academia de Gastronomía Española
a cultura mediterránea es un conjunto de hallazgos imperecederos. La cultura clásica, la forja de una civilización de la que emana todo, la producción artística y literaria que cimentó el arte venidero, el teatro, la filosofía, el comercio, las competiciones olímpicas y una triada de alimentos que construyeron una dieta mítica que aún hoy marca tendencia y moldea la gastronomía global: trigo, vid y olivo. Pan, vino y aceite. Los pueblos mediterráneos son de tres colores: del azul del mar, dorados como el sol y verdes como el olivo. La sangre de los dioses inmortales griegos no era roja: “Era dorada y viscosa, verde y densa como el aceite”. Así que un respeto, que el aceite de oliva no es solo una grasa sana monoinsaturada repleta de antioxidantes. El olivo es uno de los padres fundadores del Mediterráneo.
Rosa Vañó, fundadora y copropietaria junto a su hermano Paco, de Aceites Castillo de Canena (Jaén), una de las marcas más prestigiosas e innovadoras del mundo, ha firmado un compendio hermoso e imprescindible titulado “El aceite de oliva, historia y alma del Mediterráneo”. Académica y expresidenta de la andaluza, glosó una breve historia del olivo en su discurso de ingreso en la Real Academia de Gastronomía Española. Su recorrido por la alimentación de los pueblos del Mediterráneo desde hace cinco mil años es una pequeña pero gran obra maestra sobre el mundo de aceite, su significado profundo como articulador de una civilización, un elemento de primer nivel en la construcción de una cultura exclusiva y un canto a sus bondades, tan infinitas como las referencias históricas y literarias que jalonan su discurso. Para empezar, Tucídides, el historiador ateniense considerado el padre de la historiografía científica y el realismo político: “Las gentes del Mediterráneo comenzaron a emerger de la barbarie cuando aprendieron a cultivar el olivo y la vid”.
Agronews
La geografía del olivo
El olivo, defiende Vañó, es quien limita el entorno geográfico y el ámbito territorial del Mediterráneo. Es el árbol sagrado que establece los puntos cardinales de su cultura. Aunque tras la caída del Imperio Romano de Occidente, Bizancio se emplea en el mantenimiento de la cultura del olivo en su mesa fusionando las cocinas tradicionales griegas y romanas. Pero es con la expansión del Islam cuando el olivo rompe sus barreras geográficas. Empiezan a proliferar entonces las plantaciones de olivos en Asia a la vez que el islamismo avanza y conquista territorios mediterráneos. El segundo salto fuera de sus fronteras es en el siglo XVI: los españoles llevan esquejes y pequeños olivos en sus naves a América, rumbo a Colombia, Chile, Argentina o Perú.
El acebuche domesticado
El olivo actual es hijo del acebuche (un olivo silvestre) de la cuenca oriental del Mediterráneo. En el neolítico fue convertido en árbol domesticado en el área entre Siria y Palestina. El Valle del Jordán fue donde se produjo aceite por primera vez. La académica explica que en el yacimiento de Teleitat Gassul se hallaron por primera vez restos de aceitunas de olivos cultivados. Los huesos habían sido triturados y en las laderas del Monte Carmelo (una cordillera en Israel sobre el Mediterráneo) se encontró un recipiente de arcilla con huesos de aceituna y restos orgánicos del fruto del olivo. Asociado a estos hallazgos emerge por primera vez la idea del sedentarismo en las poblaciones agrícolas. “La olivicultura es la responsable de que se comiencen a tejer lazos indisolubles, telúricos, entre el hombre y la tierra, naciendo así nociones como hogar, terruño, patria y la propia conciencia de la perdurabilidad del clan, de la familia de la trascendencia del individuo”, dice Vañó en su discurso.
Un privilegio
Además de edificar una gastronomía única, el aceite ha tenido a lo largo de la historia significados profundos. En Mesopotamia todo lo relacionado con el aceite desempeñaba un papel esencial y se construía en torno a él un manual de privilegios: ofrenda sagrada en los templos, el alimento de lujo para las clases altas, combustible para lámparas, el elemento clave de la unción religiosa, aseo de reyes o baños de pies. Un relevante significado cultural y religioso que incluso fue regulado en el Código de Hammurabi durante el imperio babilónico (1.760 a.c.), el que fue el primer código legislativo de la historia.
iStock
Los pueblos de la ribera
En la investigación de Vañó se detalla la relación de cada pueblo Mediterráneo con el olivo: los egipcios le otorgaron a la diosa Isis la responsabilidad de mostrar a los hombres el significado de la vida a través de los olivos; en Israel, Noé comprendió que las aguas del Diluvio descendían porque una paloma regresó al Arca llevando en el pico un ramo verde de olivo; los fenicios expandieron su cultivo por todo el Mediterráneo, desde África y Sicilia hasta Gadir (Cádiz). Fueron los cretenses quienes acogieron y desarrollaron muchas innovaciones agrícolas procedentes del Oriente Próximo, impulsando el desarrollo oleícola y almacenando el aceite en ánforas gigantes.
Y Grecia
Homero fue el primero en llamar al aceite “oro líquido”. Si cobrara derechos de autor por la expresión habría ingresado más que por La Iliada y La odisea. Precisamente en La Iliada cuenta el poeta cómo los cuerpos de Patroclo y Héctor se ungen con aceite tras morir a manos de Paris y Aquiles. Y relata cómo los soldados griegos cocinaban la carne en cuencos de barro con aceite de oliva y ajo, un precursor del lomo al ajillo. Y que el caballo de Troya estaba construido con madera de olivo de Anatolia. Es en La Odisea donde naufraga Ulises en el reino de Alcínoo y el soberano le entrega ropas nuevas y una ampolla de aceite de oliva. Y nos habla Homero de “un viejo olivo deshojado, pulimentado y ornado, con las raíces aun enterradas en la tierra, como un himno epitalámico indestructible” como una de las patas del lecho conyugal que el rey de Ítaca construye para su amada Penélope. Platón fundaría su academia en un bosque sagrado de olivos e impartiría sus clases bajo un ejemplar viejo y frondoso. El olivo, en la salud y la enfermedad, en la paz y en la guerra.
Foto: Canela Limón Chile
Roma: el aceite se democratiza
Sin embargo, tan rico bagaje cultural y místico no logró en la antigua Grecia lo que consiguieron los romanos: popularizaron el consumo del aceite para la alimentación, como medicina, cosmética o para prender lámparas. El aceite de oliva dejó de ser patrimonio de los más poderosos y hacendados. Su expansión, a partir de ahí fue, meteórica.
Cierto es que la leyenda también acompaña a este árbol desde los orígenes de Roma: Rómulo y Remo nacieron bajo las ramas de un olivo. Esta época se caracteriza igualmente por la abundante bibliografía documentada y por los avances en el cultivo y el aprovechamiento del árbol y sus frutos. Estudiosos, agrónomos y expertos de la época como Catón, Varrón, Paladio o el gaditano Columela dejaron textos fundamentados cuyas directrices y consejos aún perduran y se utilizan con provecho en los olivares del siglo XXI.
Interaceituna
El olivo hoy
Cinco milenos después de que un agricultor del Valle del Jordán molturara por primera vez una aceituna para sacarle el zumo, el olivo se planta en los cinco contentes, en lugares como Australia o California, y se produce aceite de oliva en sesenta países. Hay plantados más de 1.500 millones de olivos (300 millones en España, de los cuales más de 70 están en Jaén) y cada año crece la superficie dedicada a este árbol viejo, mítico, duro y productivo. La realidad geográfica desmiente hoy al poeta francés Georges Duhamel -“allí donde el olivo se retira, acaba el Mediterráneo”-, cita que Rosa Vañó incorpora embelleciendo el texto, pero su aplastante significado cultural siempre remite al arco azul que comienza en la isla de las Palomas en Tarifa y se cierra en la bella Estambul.
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