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El nuevo jerez que nació por accidente

La bodega Ximénez Spínola hace historia con el primer fino con uva pedro ximénez en el marco de Jerez. Los 600 magnums embotellados volaron, en su mayoría a UK, Alemania y Holanda

na uva Pedro Ximénez, marca de la casa. El lagar de la finca de al lado, dedicado al vino fino y, por lo tanto, pletórico de velo de flor. Un vino que iba para la elaboración del Fermentación lenta, uno de los emblemas de la casa. Una decepción inicial. Y dos barricas de roble francés y americano. Curiosidad e investigación enológica. Tiempo. Así nació el primer fino de uva Pedro Ximénez de la Denominación de Origen de Jerez. Lleva por nombre Jerez seco serie 1 y ha sido creado por la familia Zarzana, propietarios de Ximénez Spínola, bodegueros que ya abrieron camino al ser los primeros y únicos en hacer todas sus elaboraciones con la uva PX, un desafío a la costumbre y la tradición y, a la postre, un éxito por la audacia de la apuesta. Este jerez seco de PX es el primero en una historia de 87 años de la Denominación. El fino de Jerez, como la manzanilla de Sanlúcar, ambas amparados por la misma D.O., se elabora con uva palomino: una variedad muy resistente a la sequía que reina en las tierras de albariza y que representa el 95% de las tres variedades reconocidas por el consejo, junto a la Pedro Ximénez y la moscatel. Fino y manzanilla siempre se han hecho con palomino. Hasta ahora. Porque el reglamento reconoce las tres uvas pero no determina la elaboración que ha de hacerse con cada una. En 2015, como cada año, los Zarzana se disponían a elaborar su Fermentación Lenta, un vino de mesa sobremadurado en el que las levaduras han dado buena cuenta de los azúcares hasta dejarlo seco. Pero el lagar se les había quedado pequeño ese año y le pidieron al vecino de finca que le prestara el suyo para trabajar la uva. El vecino es Francisco Barba, “Curro el de la blanquita”, el viticultor cuyos vinos nutrían la bota Real del Palacio de la Zarzuela, obsequio del entonces alcalde Pedro Pacheco al rey emérito. Cuando la PX de los Zarzana volvió a casa venía impregnada de levaduras, que al fermentar en roble francés desarrolló el velo de flor. Aquel inconveniente, con el que no contaban, les produjo un importante disgusto. “Nosotros nunca habíamos buscado el velo, nuestro sistema de vinificación y crianza es otro”, explica José Antonio Zarzana. Las 30 barricas estaban contaminadas. La mayoría se dedicó a otra elaboración, el Old harvest, y decidieron dejar dos bajo velo para observar su evolución, una en roble americano y otra en roble francés de la tonelería Sylvain, la prestigiosa casa de Libourne, en Burdeos, junto a Sant-Emilion. En 2017, el chef Ángel León, enterado del accidente enológico, le pidió embotellar el vino para Aponiente. A cuentagotas, solo 24 medias botellas semanales, sin tapón, solo con una cobertura de algodón en el gollete para mantener el velo de flor, el restaurante fue ofreciéndoselo a sus clientes. Las dos botas fueron evolucionado en la bodega y durante una auditoría del consejo regulador, los técnicos probaron ese fino de PX. “Nos dijeron que era un fino en toda regla y que si queríamos podíamos sacarlo como vino de Jerez. Ellos habían seguido todo el proceso y eran testigos de cómo se habían hecho las cosas. Sé que es insólito pero por ser insólito no es imposible”, recuerda Zarzana. El vino fue presentado con boato en la propia sede del consejo con el presidente del consejo regulador, César Saldaña, junto al bodeguero. “Este vino es el resultado de no conformarse en hacer las cosas como siempre, de escuchar al vino y presentarlo como es”, dijo Saldaña, quien añadió que es posible abrir un nuevo camino con las elaboraciones de esta uva. Esta Serie 1 es el resultado puro de la naturaleza y la observación experta del bodeguero. Zarzana advierte que este vino es único e irrepetible. Conviene no engañarse. Habrá otros en esa línea pero serán otra cosa. De hecho, como una vez que el hongo que produce las levaduras entra en la bodega se adhiere a las paredes y ya no hay quién lo saque de allí, la bodega tiene hoy 21 barricas destinadas a la Serie 2. Se trata de una experiencia natural de crianza biológica en roble francés, que le aporta un valor diferencial. “Crearemos una línea de vinos discontinua. El 2 puede ser un amontillado o un oloroso. Veremos cómo se comportan las barricas cuando pierdan el velo y el vino vaya oxidándose. Todos serán vinos de añada y seguiremos apostando por nuestra uva. Pero esta no es nuestra línea principal”, explica el bodeguero. El Jerez seco serie 1 ha puesto en el mercado 600 magnums numerados, a 123 euros. Volaron. Convertido en una relevante novedad enológica del año en Jerez, más de la mitad se vendieron fuera de España, especialmente en Reino Unido, Holanda o Alemania, donde sumilleres y aficionados se disputaron alguna de las unidades disponibles. Lo interesante de este vino es que abre nuevas posibilidades al mundo de los jereces. A diferencia de Montilla-Moriles, donde todos los vinos se hacen con PX, en Jerez, hasta ahora, la palomino era la única uva de referencia para lo que venimos entendiendo como fino. Ese vino amarillo pajizo u oro pálido, seco, aromático punzante en el paladar y con la personalidad que le da la crianza bajo velo de flor, esas levaduras que lo protegen de la oxidación. Pues de momento otro tipo de fino ha venido a sumarse a la oferta vinícola jerezana. Y aunque es un fino con todas las letras y cumple las exigencias del Consejo Regulador es, a la vez, un fino diferente, criado además en estática, sin el procedimiento dinámico habitual de criaderas y soleras. Un vino de guarda que procede de ensamblar las dos barricas que dejaron de muestra. Muy goloso en boca, glicérico en la copa, es vinoso y seductor. No es alcohólico ni tiene el topetazo seco en el paladar de algunos jereces. En cambio, deja un regusto de fruta sin ser un vino joven e incorpora notas herbáceas. Y llama especialmente la atención en el paladar un punto lejano a turba, unos ahumados que le confieren definitivamente una personalidad propia y lo convierten incluso en un vino de guarda. “El jerez no pue estar cerrado a lo que ya existe a día de hoy. El clasicismo es sota, caballo y rey. La crianza dinámica garantiza siempre una calidad media y la estabilidad del producto, pero experimentar nos deja sorpresas agradables como esta y la posibilidad de abrir nuevos caminos y salirnos del bucle del fino clásico. No hemos hecho ni locuras ni innovaciones raras. Es una fermentación espontánea e igual puede ser el principio de algo nuevo”, sostiene el bodeguero.

 

https://www.uppers.es/estilo-de-vida/mejores-vinos-y-maridaje/nuevo-vino-jerez-nacio-accidente_18_3145545132.html

 

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

César Saldaña, junto a Zarzana

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