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Francia ¡Oh là là¡, España, ¡olé y olé¡

Claves para entender en qué supera la gastronomía española a la francesa: de la alta cocina, a la clase media de restaurantes y la barra de los bares

spañolito, si alguna vez tuvo complejos frente a la cocina francesa ya puede ir quitándoselos porque este asunto ya no ha de helarle el corazón. Hace tiempo que tenemos motivos para mirar de frente a cualquier cocina del mundo, tal es el nivel adquirido por los cocineros españoles. Sabido es que la historia del éxito se empieza a escribir en el País Vasco y más concretamente en Donostia.

San Sebastián, que es una de las ciudades mágicas del mundo, celebra a su patrón con una tamborrada con todos sus paisanos vestidos de cocineros antes de desparramarse y entregarse al disfrute total en sus sociedades gastronómicas. Solo una tierra con tan hondas raíces, conocimiento de su recetario, amor por sus productos de proximidad y respeto al acto de cocinar y comer podría obrar el milagro. Un milagro que no fue milagroso sino el resultado de un empuje, una constancia, y una maestría adquirida a base de perseverar, atreverse y mirar a lo mejores, entre ellos Paul Bocuse y su nouvelle cuisine, cuyos principios inspiraron los de la nueva cocina vasca. Francia fue madre y maestra.

Esta historia de éxito tiene muchos nombres y apellidos: Arzak, Subijana, Martín Berasategui, Luis Irízar, Hilario Arbelaitz, Aduriz, Eneko Atxa, Bittor Arginzoniz, los Arregi de Elkano y Kaia o Roberto Ruiz, entre otros muchos, han hecho un territorio con una de las mayores concentraciones de estrellas Michelin del mundo. Aquel acto prendió y se extendió por el resto del territorio. Cada uno a su manera, con parada y punto y aparte en Cala Montjoi, donde Ferrán Adriá y su equipo marcaron otro hito revolucionando la cocina global para mucho tiempo y suministraron a la gastro española un nuevo impulso.

Posiblemente son cuatro, al menos, los motivos los que explican el éxito de la gastronomía española, sostenida en el tiempo por casi cuatro décadas: la devoción por el producto de proximidad y de temporada; la concentración de una cantidad ingente de talento que se inspiró colectivamente aunque cada uno con la suya; la base de la cocina tradicional española, rica, variada y sabia; y algo relevante: creatividad e innovación al servicio del futuro sin perder de vista el camino recorrido por los cocineros y cocineras de toda la vida. Aún vivimos tiempos desprejuiciados entre fogones. Muchos expertos consideran que la cocina francesa se ha atrevido menos. Más autorreverencial y respetuosa con sus propios tótems ha carecido, tras alcanzar los laureles con la nouvelle cuisine, de ese elemento disruptivo y el atrevimiento que, incluso con cierta candidez, lanzó a la gastronomía española en un camino que hoy perdura. No es necesario recordar los éxitos internacionales de los mejores restaurantes españoles. Que se suman a los mencionados, desde Lasarte, Disfrutar, Abac  o el Celler de Can Roca, pasando por el cántabro El cenador de Amos, los de Quique Dacosta y Ricard Camarena en el Levante, Atrio en Extremadura o el Aponiente de Ángel León en El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz).

Si alguien cree que los Bocuse, Pierre Gagnaire, Ducasse, Robuchon, Alain Passard, Michel Bras, Guy Savoy, Michel Guerard, Anne-Sophie Pic, entre otros, más la nueva ola de chefs jóvenes franceses son solo atrezzo es que no ha entendido nada. En sus restaurantes, algunos seguramente más sobrevalorados que otros, se oficia al nivel de la mejor cocina del mundo. Pero en cualquier caso, en la alta cocina competimos con los mejores y posiblemente por encima de ellos en muchos casos: somos el cuarto país en estrellas Michelin (ejemplo de cicatería de la guía: hay decenas de casas indiscutibles que deberían estar en la guía) y tenemos tres marcas entre el top ten, Francia solo dos. Aún así, Francia sigue muy por delante en las michelines: 628 estrellas frente a las 224 de España. Por algo será, sin duda. Aunque hay explicaciones de todo tipo.


Pero es en el segmento intermedio, ese que no alcanza el estrellato, donde España arrasa. Podríamos distinguir cinco categorías, así con trazo gordo. La alta cocina -dicho queda-; la clase media; los restaurantes de producto; las casas de comidas tradicionales; y el tapeo de barra. Respecto a los restaurantes top, queda dicho. Los llamados templos del producto de España (Los Marinos José, el Faralló, Lera o el campero, por ejemplo) combinan el mejor producto de las costas y el campo con un tratamiento delicado y excelente de cada pieza: en eso, como mucho, solo pueden empatarnos). En las casas de comidas de toda la vida, Francia brilla con luz propia. Es fácil, sobre todo alejándose de París, encontrar centenares de locales donde comer mal es imposible. Son esos locales en los que el recetario tradicional francés sobresale con una ejecución maestra y sabrosura plena. Te aplasta el peso de la historia y la tradición culinaria. Incluso en París hay pequeños restaurantes con una cocina canónica, como el pequeño y abigarrado Chez Denise, un espectáculo donde los parroquianos disfrutones se chupan los dedos: tripas guisadas, conejo a la mostaza, manitas de cerdo, un foie gras canónico y postres para chuparse los dedos. Pero en España, dicho sea de paso, tampoco andamos a la zaga de buenas casas de comida. Respecto al tapeo de barra, España no tiene rival. Es más, en la mayoría de países ni siquiera existe ese concepto. Esa comida de pequeño formato, en porciones medidas y una variedad asombrosa, nos convierte en potencia líder sin contestación posible. Y el gran asalto se produce en la clase media. Restaurantes con un ticket medio entre 50 y 70 euros, que es donde se produce la gran diferencia y, lo que es más importante, donde se está macerando la base del futuro engorde de la alta cocina. Es difícil encontrar en el país vecino, especialmente en París, restaurantes de ese nivel y a esos precios. Piensen en sitios como Alabaster, Surtopía, Askuabarra, Angelita, Kulto, Maldonado 14, Arzábal, Taberna Pedraza, Picones de María, Roostiq, La Malaje, Casa Barrera y otros cien similares en Madrid.  O sitios como Caelis, Manairó o Xerta en Barcelona. O El Bobo y Lisa Negra en Valencia. El Faro, Tohqa, La Castillería, Casa Antonio o El campero en la provincia de Cádiz. O Cañabotas, Sobretablas, Becerrita, La Moneda de inchausti y Tribeca en Sevilla. Y la Cosmopolita en Málaga. O el FM en Granada. O La Covaciella y el Roble en Asturias; Abisal, Doade y Miga en Galicia y Texeda y Agáldar en las islas Canarias. Y así, podríamos hacer una guía con mil referencias.

Si busca restaurantes de ese perfil en Francia, los encontrará. Pero no abundan y el precio sube desproporcionada e injustificadamente.

Si busca un bistrot en París, que la fuerza le acompañe. Sobre todo si espera encontrar ese espacio íntimo, con cocina de calidad y precios razonables. En un porcentaje elevadísimo va a encontrar medianías, con cartas carentes de chispa y la calidad justita. Y anoten lo peor: la incomodidad: el mítico aprovechamiento del metro cuadrado en la ciudad de las luces es asunto para los psiquiatras. Las mesas -pequeñísimas y de baquelita o cualquier otro plástico- se separan de la de al lado por apenas unos dedos: más te vale hacer migas con tus nuevos compañeros porque literalmente participan de tu conversación. Las sillitas son las de los enanitos de Blancanieves, aunque mantienen en sus terrazas esa estética homogénea que les da cierto encanto demodé. Vaya, que en España, la comodidad de espacio y mobiliario es un lujo incluido en el precio. En Francia tiene que pagarlo aparte. No espere cubiertos aceptables. Abundan los manteles de papel –cuando cubren la mesa- y otro déficit que frustra cualquier experiencia son las copas para el vino. Esas copas de tamaño mini, gastadas, no se ven ya ni en los bares de gasolinera en España. Entre unas Zalto o unas Riedel y esos cacharros rayados de ocho centilitros hay todo un catálogo inmenso. Y ojo, que no estamos hablando de locales turísticos. ¿Hablamos del precio del vino y de cómo se bebe en España y a cuánto? Vale. Vaya donde vaya, no espere tomar una copa de un rosé medianito de la Provenza, un burdeos o un borgoña de andar por casa por menos de 9-10 euros. Y, como queda dicho, a cuentagotas. Si sube un poco su aspiración, prepare 20 euros por los ocho decilitros de un Chateau-Chalon o alguna cosa del Loira. El champagne más básico, a 15 euros la flauta sesentera. Por botellas no va a tener mejor suerte. Los muy básicos ( de los que cuestan 12 euros la botella en bodega) del Ródano o de Jura arrancan en el entorno de los 60 euros. Tiene Chablis o Languedoc sobre los 40-50, vinitos que no alcanzan a un rioja, por ejemplo, de calidad media. De ahí para arriba con borgoñas o burdeos. Si encuentra un champagne por debajo de los cien euros, pídalo. Y así hasta el infinito.

Resumiendo: para quien busca la excelencia la encontrará tanto en España como en Francia. En nuestro país, a mejor precio y en muchos casos por encima de sus colegas galos, aunque Francia mantiene la primera posición por algo. Si aspira a comer bien a precios razonables, no lo dude: arrasamos. Y si encima descubre el arte del tapeo, esa experiencia mágica que se sitúa entre el minimalismo del pintxo o la tapa y el casticismo profundo y sabio de las ollas al fuego, el triunfo es irremisible.

En España tenemos en torno a 300.000 establecimientos de hostelería y eso contando con los cierres provocados por la pandemia. Aproximadamente, un local por cada 175 personas. Hay mucha afición a los bares y restaurantes: es una constante histórica que ha cimentado la industria. Queda mucho por mejorar y la gastronomía española aún nos va a dar más y nuevos días de gloria. Pero hoy ya compite de tú a tú con la mejor del mundo y le gana algunas mangas por goleada.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

427 Comentarios

  1. Anabel el diciembre 11, 2021 a las 1:40 pm

    Resumiendo, como en casa, en ningún lado, aunque tengamos que mejorar.
    Muy interesante la comparativa de España y Francia. Gracias!!!

  2. Ignacio Moreno el diciembre 11, 2021 a las 6:09 pm

    Cuanta razón tienes querido Antonio en tu sabrosa comparativa de hoy. En Francia, se come muy bien, pero España, cada día tiene menos que envidiar y en el tema vinos de categoría, nuestra calidad/precio, no tiene competencia con ellos. Para mi, los superamos ampliamente.

  3. Manuel lopez el diciembre 11, 2021 a las 8:02 pm

    Antonio. No tengo nada que añadir. Como siempre una lección. Abrazos

  4. Alfonso Carrascosa el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 2:18 am

    Como siempre para quitarse el sombrero.
    Yo diría que en Francia, al margen de los grandes , hay que buscar e informarse para comer razonablemente bien y, sin embargo , en España , hay que tener mala suerte para comer mal ..
    enhorabuena !!!

  5. A.H.R. el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 1:55 pm

    Muy de acuerdo Alfonso. Sobre los vinos no digo nada porque tú eres catedrático !! Un fuerte abrazo

  6. A.H.R. el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 1:56 pm

    Disfruta del Caribe de mi parte Manuel !!
    Muchos abrazos

  7. A.H.R. el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 1:56 pm

    Así es querido. Un fuerte abrazo

  8. A.H.R. el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 1:56 pm

    Gracias guapa! Viaje pendiente a Las landas y Normandía !

  9. José Antonio Zarzana el diciembre 12, 2021 a las 8:45 pm

    Querido Antonio:

    Muy poco se puede añadir a un artículo tan experimentado y docto…. Solo transmitirte mi envidia sana por el beneficio de tu experiencia gastronomia.

    Ciertamente la superioridad de nuestro “segmento medio” quizás la hemos pensado todos alguna vez, pero nunca lo había visto yo razonado por escrito y con tanta elocuencia.

    Enhorabuena amigo!!!

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