Harvard come sardinas en lata
Al hilo de un informe de la prestigiosa universidad ponderando las calidades de las conservas, ofrecemos pistas sabrosas para el verano con productos top del laterío español
as sardinas en lata son un tesoro que usted no debería despreciar. Son sabrosas, versátiles en la cocina y baratas. Y además, muy sanas y por lo tanto recomendables. Ya lo sabíamos, pero la editorial de salud de la Universidad de Harvard lo ha puesto negro sobre blanco en un informe de Julie Corliss, la editora ejecutiva, quien se deshace en elogios sobre los peces pequeños y los bivalvos en conserva como fuente de valor nutricional y como productos que coadyuvan a la protección del medio ambiente. La investigadora cita al profesor de nutrición y salud planetaria de la Escuela de Salud Pública de Harvard, Christopher Golden: “Es mucho mejor para su salud y el medio ambiente cuando reemplaza las fuentes de alimentos terrestres, especialmente a la carne roja, con fuentes de alimentos acuáticos”.
La utilización de estos pequeños peces para las conservas los detrae de ser utilizado para hacer harinas de pescado que suelen emplearse para engorde en piscifactorías, sobre todo de salmones. Y directamente recomiendan las sardinas o las caballas en lata frente al salmón de piscifactoría o al atún enlatado. Añaden otras especies: anchoas y arenques y bivalvos como la almeja o la ostra, a los que podrían añadir si se dieran una vuelta por las conserveras españolas los berberechos, las zamburiñas, el mejillón o la vieira. Y nosotros sumaríamos con los mismos argumentos e igual pertinencia los cefalópodos como el pulpo, los calamares y las sepias.
Saludables, sostenibles y baratas
Sabido es que el pescado azul proporciona ácidos grados omega-3 que son saludables para el corazón, además de hierro, zinc y vitamina B, y además contienen menos mercurio que las grandes piezas como el atún o el pez espada, pero Harvard más allá e incluso propone que se coman las espinas (o huesos) de los pescados más pequeños por su aportación en calcio, hábito que, por otra parte es habitual entre muchos consumidores.
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España, una potencia mundial
Un dato desconocido es que España es el segundo productor mundial de conservas de pescado y marisco, solo por detrás de Tailandia, y que tiene el 50% de la cuota europea. En esto somos una potencia. Los tailandeses son expertos sobre todo en la producción en masa de conservas de atún, pero España aventaja en variedad y calidades. Las conservas españolas viven el siglo de oro del laterío fino, por calidad de producto, por la variedad de la oferta, la excelencia en la producción y el valor añadido de la creatividad y el márquetin, con Galicia sobresaliendo notablemente. En realidad, la conserva se produce en todas las costas españolas y en todas el trabajo es excelente: desde Galicia, País vasco y Cantabria, pasando por las del Mediterráneo catalán y levantino hasta las de Barbate y Huelva en el sur. Las conservas españolas de calidad son manjares. Anfaco-ecopesca, la organización profesional más representativa del sector indica que en 2022 se produjeron 305.403 toneladas de conservas y semiconservas de pescado y marisco en España, valoradas en 1.745 millones de euros. Aunque supuso una caída del 7,6% en volumen, su valor se incrementó en un 5,7% respecto a 2021 debido a la subida de los precios.
Conservas con diez años de maduración, nueva tendencia
El valor gastronómico de las conservas es tal y su interés tan creciente que grupos de gourmets abogan incluso por el consumo de algunas conservas de calidad después de su fecha de consumo preferente, alcanzando hasta diez años reposando en cavas después de la fecha indicada. Entre ellos, el crítico José Carlos Capel, quien junto a otros como Luis Gutiérrez, catador de vinos de Robert Parker Wine Advocate; el conservero gallego José Peña, el experto en champanes Omar Bravo, o el gastrónomo Alberto Fernández celebraron una cata reciente dando fe de que el tiempo había concentrado los sabores y elevado la experiencia gastronómica.
Ponga unas latas en su verano y apague los fogones
En tiendas especializadas y supermercados encontrará tal variedad que no sabrá por donde atacar. Aquí van unas pistas para el verano, que invita a cenas rápidas, desenfadadas y facilonas. Piérdale el miedo al abrelatas, que no muerde. Bueno, algunos, sí.
Navajas picantonas de Doña Tomasa (Santoña). Son una cumbre. Navajas (muergos en el sur o longueirones en Galicia) depuradas, cocidas al vapor y aliñadas con una confitura de ajo y guindilla. Cómalas hasta enloquecer.
Ventresca de Campos (Bermeo, Vizcaya): si encuentra una ventresca más fina vaya a protestar a esta fábrica, aunque las fundadoras -mujeres con garrote, como diría Berasategui- igual lo envasan a usted en una lata. Los entrepaños laminados de esta ventresca son de una delicadeza poética.
Morrillo de atún rojo de Herpac (Barbate, Cádiz). Lo mejor del atún, en conserva. Ese solomillo del túnido, tan perseguido como escaso. Compre todas las que pueda y no comparta con nadie.
Mejillones fritos en escabeche de Rosa Lafuente (Vilanova de Arousa, Pontevedra). Mejillón vivo de la ría, escabechado y frito. Terroso y aterciopelado. Una delicia adictiva.
Anchoas San Filippo, Solano Arriola y El capricho. No una, tres, para que elija sin equivocarse. Tres anchoas de Santoña imbatibles. Sin restos de sangre, pura seda. El mar en el paladar, como escribió Manuel Vicent.
Lomo de sardina ahumada de Disraval (El Coronil. Sevilla). En un pueblo tan poco marinero como El Coronil, en la sierra sur de Sevilla, Rafa Valle hace unas sardinas -seleccionadas en las mejores zonas sardineras de España- que le echan la pata a las que se pongan por delante. Una delicia carnosa con el punto justo de sal. Pruebe.
Chipirón en aceite de oliva de La Brújula. (Ribadumia, Pontevedra). Piezas limpias, brillantes y rellenadas con sus propios tentáculos. Para no parar.
Lomos de sardinas a la brasa de Gueyu mar (Ribadesella, Asturias). Abel Álvarez, el cocinero del restaurante del mismo nombre que las conservas, selecciona las mejores, las pasa por las brasas de encina y las mete en aceite de arbequina de Castillo de Canena. Nada que añadir.19.-Porto-Muíños. Precio: 16,90 (huevas de erizo).
Huevas de erizo al natural de Porto-Muiño (Cerceda, A coruña). El erizo de mar es una orgía de contrastes, yodados, salados y dulces. Muy intenso. Meterlos en una lata y que no pierdan calidad es difícil. Estos señores lo hacen de maravilla.
Sardinillas de José Peña (Puebla del Caramiñal, A Coruña). Sardinillas de pequeñísimo calibre montadas en la lata en abanico. Limpias hasta conseguir una textura impecable, con todo el mar dentro. Impresionantes.
Anguila all i pebre de Samare (Valencia). Conservas de la albufera. Esta es un clásico de la cocina valenciana (anguila con una base de ajo, pimentón, pimienta y aceite). contundente y bien trabajada para conserva. Tiene otra de angula en salsa teriyaki muy recomendable, fina.
Caballa en manteca colorá de Felisa Gourmet (Barbate, Cádiz). Tan especial, tan rica y tan popular como una caballa pero en conserva, aliñada con una manteca colorá -clásica de la zona- suave, sin invadir el sabor del pescado azul. Brutal
Berberechos al natural de Los Peperetes (Carril-Villagarcía de Arousa, Pontevedra): berberechos de la ría, procedentes de pesca artesanal, sostenibles y deliciosos. Se limpian con agua de mar, se clasifican y envasan. Impresionantes.
Melva a la roteña de Pesasur (Ayamonte, Huelva). Bajo la batuta del chef del mar, Ángel León, ofrecen una línea de conservas gourmet de la que destacamos esta melva a la roteña, con tomate, pimiento y aceite oliva ahumado. Un bocado exquisito.
Boquerones aliñados de Latorre Punset (Llinars del Vallès, Barcelona). Boquerones clásicos con un aliño suave. Un must -como dicen ahora- en la nevera.
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