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La uva pedro ximénez desafía los cánones del jerez con su primer palo cortado

La Bodega Ximénez Spínola saca al mercado 2.592 botellas de su Jerez seco serie 2, el primer palo cortado del marco de jerez que no se elabora con uva palomino.

a familia Zarzana ha elaborado un Palo cortado que es pionero, original, único e irrepetible. Y encima está buenísimo. Pionero porque es el primer palo cortado que se elabora en el marco de jerez, amparado por la DO, con uva Pedro Ximénez. Hasta ahora todos los palos cortados de Jerez, amén del misterio inescrutable de sus características, vienen de la uva palomino y con doble crianza, biológica y oxidativa. Este es además original porque no solo da origen a una nueva posible línea de trabajo con la PX para los vinos oxidados sino porque es distinto, rabiosamente diferente. Es único porque nunca más volverá a elaborarse. Igual Ximenez Spínola, una bodega en manos de la misma familia desde 1729, hace otro palo cortado dentro de unos años, pero no será el mismo. Es como el río, imposible bañarse dos veces en el mismo porque el agua fluye. Pues es lo mismo.
Esta es una serie limitadísima de 2.592 botellas procedentes de nueve barricas barricas que nace en la bodega de Las Tablas y muere en la copa de los afortunados que pillen una botella. Es el jerez seco serie 2, un palo cortado de pedro ximénez que nace con la elegancia natural de la casa, el etiquetado que los distingue y con vocación de gustar. Está fermentado de manera natural y elaborado con métodos de vinificación tradicional. Fermentó en las barricas de roble francés que utiliza la casa para sus vinos blancos y envejeció en roble americano como un vino de crianza oxidativa.

El jerez seco serie 1 fue un fino también de px, la única uva con la que trabaja la bodega jerezana.
Este palo cortado es un vino con pocas aristas, redondo en boca, con frutos secos y ahumados; y aromas muy especiales. No esperen un vino de corte VORS, con mucha vejez, una oxidativa profunda y la madera en vena. Es otra cosa. Diferente. Acompaña perfectamente los prolegómenos de un almuerzo, los entrantes, caza de pluma con guisos ligeros y quesos. Sale al mercado al precio de 87 euros la botella.

Pero también es un desafío en el circunspecto mundo del jerez, una ambición medida que tiene dos objetivos. Por un lado, prestigiar y revindicar la uva pedro ximénez, una de las tres amparadas por la DO junto a la palomino -que es la reina- y la moscatel. Hasta los años ochenta, la exportación de jereces suponía el 15% de las exportaciones españolas. Una de las mayores fuentes de ingreso de divisas en las arcas de España. Por aquel tiempo, Jerez disponía de más de 25.000 hectáreas de uva. Pero hace 40 años que la producción de vinos de Jerez ha ido mermando. Hoy quedan unas 7.500 hectáreas cultivadas dentro de la denominación de origen, casi un 70% de superficie menos. La uva pedro ximénez representa hoy solo el 2% de la superficie cultivada. Es una presencia marginal. Tradicionalmente se ha dedicado a la pasificación para elaborar vinos dulces dulcísimos. José Antonio Zarzana, propietario y viticultor de Ximénez Spínola, considera que “Jerez tiene un déficit de pedro ximénez respecto a sus necesidades productivas” y defiende que su palo cortado de px “viene a ampliar las posibilidades de elaboración, abriéndose al espectro de los vinos clásicos de Jerez”. La apuesta de la bodega es evitar que se siga arrancando viñedo y retrocediendo en número de hectáreas “cuando hay déficit de pedro ximénez” que, a su juicio “es una variedad que funciona de manera extraordinariamente expresiva como base de los jereces tradicionales”. Aunque esa expresividad se atenúa o se pierde con la pasificación de la uva.


José Antonio Zarzana

Esta bodega ya viene haciendo elaboraciones distintas hace años. Sus vinos de mesa con px -como el Fermentación lenta, el Exceptional harvest o el Old harvest– abrieron un camino. Ahora, con este palo cortado presentan el segundo monovarietal de la serie de jereces secos, tras un fino, embotellado hace un año solo en formato magnum y que mejora con el tiempo. El propio Zarzana reconoce que cuando fueron al consejo para acreditar el vino pensaron que lo que llevaban era un amontillado. De hecho, la relación de la bodega con la flor y las levaduras es reciente, se remonta a poco más de una década y entraron en la bodega casi por casualidad tras utilizar un año el lagar de una bodega vecina que sí trabaja con velo de flor.
“Ningún Jerez Seco de esta marca tiene continuidad como producto, ya que es imposible repetirlo en las mismas proporciones y con las mismas características organolépticas de la anterior serie. Jerez Seco Serie 2, es el resultado de una vinificación única en espacio, tiempo y comportamiento, que es imposible de volver a repetir”, añade Zarzana.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio Guardar y salir

Los buenos son anchos y cortos, "como el pulgar de un carpintero", según Cunqueiro
Los buenos son anchos y cortos, "como el pulgar de un carpintero", según Cunqueiro
Los buenos son anchos y cortos, "como el pulgar de un carpintero", según Cunqueiro
Los buenos son anchos y cortos, "como el pulgar de un carpintero", según Cunqueiro

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    Querido Antonio.
    Te recuerdo que tenemos pendiente de abrir un tesoro del XIX para cuando me avises que estės por Cadiz con tiempo y organizarnos.
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