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Martín, el niño del Bodegón Alejandro

Con 12 estrellas en la canana, Berasategui mantiene intacta la ilusión, la creatividad y el garrote

Martín Berasategui  tiene  59  años,  12 estrellas  y dos cojones. Bueno, perdón, en su caso serán dos  huevos Gorrotxategui  con ensalada líquida de hierbas y papada de cerdo. Es que él es así,  sencillo y sofisticado  a la vez. Hablar de sus doce estrellas  Michelín  es muy fácil. Casi no hace falta explicarlo. Hablar de él es más complicado porque es un  tipo dual: sencillez humana al límite, complejidad culinaria máxima; exigencia a tope con su trabajo, relajación con sus amigos; modestia sin impostar, sabiduría infinita. Es  excesivo cuando trabaja y cuando se divierte . Si lo ven tocar la armónica, se parten.

Y nunca ha perdido la mirada del niño que sentó a su madre,  Gabriela , y a su tía  María  a la mesa del  Bodegón Alejandro  y les dijo que se acabó el trabajar. Que se hacía cargo del negocio familiar, que tenía fuerza, ilusión y ganas para eso y para más. En aquel Bodegón, en la parte vieja de San Sebastián, obtuvo Martín su primera estrella de la guía francesa. Y hasta aquí ha llegado, de momento, el chaval que se fogueaba en el mercado de  la Bretxa, en la carnicería de José Ignacio Gabilondo, padre de nueve hijos, entre ellos Iñaki, Ángel y Ramón .

Ese es Martín, un tipo que ha hecho bandera de la  superación permanente . Que trabaja para abrir caminos y que nunca se conforma. Está  pendiente de cada plato: los «encima» como diría un comentarista de fútbol postmoderno. Maneja el barco desde el timón de la cocina con un gen competitivo muy desarrollado, muy donostiarra y muy telúrico; y con un ojo en las pantallas que muestran el trabajo en los restaurantes que tiene por medio mundo. Da las buenas noches a cada becario tras el último servicio de la noche al grito mítico de ¡garrote¡  y, si hace falta, es el último en salir de Lasarte aunque no sepa dónde se apagan las luces. Aprovecha sus vacaciones para seguir aprendiendo y, aunque su firma se extiende ya por España, Portugal y Latinoamérica , siempre regresa a  La Concha, a  Donosti , a las caminatas con su amigos, a ejercer de «donostiarra profesional», como diría  Savater . A la hermosa ciudad «que beso y me besa» de  Gabriel Celaya .

Martín es  uno y trino:  Oneka Arregui,  quien maneja la sala y el restaurante con la elegancia de quienes saben latín, lista como ella sola, cariñosa y profesional como pocas: es la clave de bóveda del ecosistema martiniano, en casa y en el restaurante. Ane, que ha aprendido a doscientos por hora y es quien ha llevado las otras ciencias a Lasarte: las relaciones públicas y la comunicación, pura estirpe MB en lo suyo; y David de Jorge, el asilvestrado y cultísimo Robin Food, con un conocimiento enciclopédico de las cosas del comer,  un pretoriano del martinismo: socio, compañero, amigo y voluntario para el trabajo y la farra. Martín dice de él que es el mejor cocinero de España. Y no se le mueve un músculo de la cara. Lo dice muy en serio. Pero, además, como Evita Perón , Martín es multitud: José Manuel Borrella , su eficaz y brillante maitre, ya familia, que vino de tierras extremeñas; su jefe de cocina, Joseba Lezama, casi 30 años enrolado en esta casa;  sus equipos, sus proveedores como Gorrotxategui o Luismi  y, sobre todo, sus clientes, siempre en el centro de sus desvelos.

Martín hace cosas tremendas. Algunas son pura poesía, como la ensalada de tuétanos de verdura con marisco, crema de lechuga de caserío y jugo yodado. Casi merece estar colgada en el Thyssen  junto al Bodegón con pastel de frutas de Willen Heda. Pero lo relevante es que sabe que se dedica, antes que nada, a dar de comer, una bendición muy muy vasca. A hacer feliz a la gente que se arrima a sus restaurantes. Un prodigio alejado de cualquier desnorte provocado por el mal de altura del Olimpo de la alta cocina. De hecho, cuando cierra la puerta y cocina para sus amigos siempre cae una sopa de marisco y pescado que te proporciona nutrientes para ir a la luna; el rodaballo a los tres vuelcos y el chuletón de Luismi, que sirve, con suerte, acompañado por una perigord que debería estar prohibida por adictiva y un puré Robuchon, que es un canto a la mantequilla, la patata y a la mano que remueve tenaz la masa hasta sacar esa finura inspirada por el chef francés que logró hasta 32 estrellas y revolucionó buena parte de la gastronomía actual.

Otro día hablaremos de  cómo se come  en sus restaurantes, que no es poca cosa. Pero hoy no toca: es más importante decir que es  un tipo irrepetible. Verdadero por auténtico, disfrutón y gruñón cuando toca, con un corazón que le ocupa medio pecho.  Amigo de sus amigos . Una suerte, vaya. Para comérselo emparedado en su milhojas de foie grass, anguila y manzana caramelizada. ¡Garrote, Martintxo ¡

 

26.875 Comentarios

  1. Qué difícil es resumir a Martín en un artículo tan corto, te ha debido costar un quintal! Lo que ha conseguido Martin y su equipo merece un libraco gordo.

    Un abrazo.

  2. Bienaventurados los hombres de fogones, porque después de comer para ellos será el reino de los cielos y todos los piropos.

  3. No conozco a Marin personalmente, si sé de él porque es un referente en la gastronomía.
    Con la descripción que haces tanto humana como profesional se me hace más fácil conocerlo. Deseando degustar sus platos y cómo no, conocerlo “face to face”.
    Enhorabuena Antonio por acercarnos a él

  4. Sabia de tus intenciones. De Martin lo has clavado. Tuve la suerte en Lasarte compartir una charla con él, en la celebracion de la boda de una sobrina. En aquel momento Dani Garcia estaba madurandose allí,despues abrio Tragabuches.. Me dedicó su primer libro. Sencillo,humilde pero sobre todo sabio. Merece la pena conocerlo

  5. De un perfil así que va a emerger si no gastronomía pura?
    Y ese manojo de palabras tampoco se queda atrás, Antonio.

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