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Una de los platos más populares de España se reinventa incorporando sabores, formas y texturas nuevas. De la croqueta de jamón a la de tiramisú al amaretto
a croqueta, ese ingenio ovalado, redondo, rectangular o deliberadamente informe, es una de las pocas creaciones culinarias que ha sido capaz de crear una ciencia, una escuela y una enciclopedia de saberes populares en torno a su naturaleza, composición y sabor. La croqueta es extremadamente flexible en cuanto a ingredientes, tamaño, forma y enjundia. Y cada quien tiene la suya propia. Pero jamás discuta: la de cada madre es la mejor. La croqueta construye más España que la red de carreteras nacionales. Socorrida como ella sola, igual sirve para un primero que para un segundo plato, aguanta perfectamente en un táper un día de excursión, soporta largas estancias en el congelador como si fuera Shackleton, gusta a niños y mayores y, por si fuera poco, es la reina de las bandejas con blondas en cualquier cóctel que se precie. Tanto es así que la sabiduría popular ha bautizado esos encuentros sociales con el ilustrativo nombre de croqueteo. Un croqueteo es por definición una convidá y en su naturaleza está la gratuidad, aspecto que destaca con elocuencia el periodista Fernando Santiago para destacar que al pueblo le priva más lo gratis que la calidad de la masa crocante. Lo que un castizo llamaría un gañotazo y un cheli un mangazo. “De válvula”, que diría el apoderado de un torero. La croque es maistream y de barriada obrera. Su transversalidad social es infinita. La croqueta es total. Solo exige un paladar de amianto.
Su origen es francés, como muchos de los grandes inventos gastronómicos, y nació allá por el siglo XVII aunque la fecha es objeto de controversia, y puede provenir de la expresión croquette, con la que se definía a toda pelotita u ovoide de masa frita y crujiente o de croquant, que viene a significar lo mismo. La bechamel llegaría años más tarde, según la periodista Ana Vega Biscayenne, autora del recomendabilísimo Cocina viejuna. La bechamel llegó para refinar la croqueta y elevarla a la cumbre de la cremosidad, pero de saque era pura cocina de aprovechamiento. Servían los restos de un puchero, de un plato de carne o pescado. Verduras y embutidos, quesos y setas. Cualquier cosa comestible era transformada en ese invento que fascinó a cocineros y glotones, a chavales y literatos como Ramón Gómez de la Serna, quien dejó escrita la frase más brillante y definitoria sobre el ingenio croqueteril: “Las croquetas deberían tener hueso, para que pudiésemos llevar la cuenta de las que comemos”.
Todo esto viene a cuenta porque estamos en la novena del Día internacional de la croqueta, que se celebra cada año el 16 de enero, compartiendo fecha con el Día internacional de The Beatles. Por más que busco ignoro quién decretó el día de la croqueta, pero casi da igual, aunque es mucho más relevante que el de los muchachos de Liverpool. La humanidad conmemora este invento al nivel del fuego, la rueda, el colchón sin muelles o el mando a distancia y ya. La croqueta es ubicua. Omnipresente. Igual se convierte en plato de referencia o en aperitivo de la casa en la carta de un restaurante de los caros que en la tapa preferida del bar de barrio o en el reclamo de una vitrina en una venta de carretera. En Zalacaín te la servían humeante y finísima en su blonda sobre bandeja de plata, igual que las patatas suflé, mientras ojeabas la carta. No hay carta sin croqueta y en España se trabaja muy bien el género. Lo cual no significa que todas alcancen los niveles mínimos exigibles. Porque también las hay gomosas y meras quitahambres, otras que requieren de la pericia de Sherlock Holmes para encontrar el relleno y algunas, impías, que son un conglomerado de masa para repellar un socavón en la M-30. En el universo croqueteril hay de todo. Algunos más atrevidos y moderniquis se lanzan rápido al uso de la química u otros productos para potenciar el sabor (con glutamato sódico, por ejemplo), a espesar la croqueta con goma xantana (una especie de carbohidrato que proviene de la fermentación del maíz) o agar-agar (que es un concentrado de algas) . O a lo contrario, a hacerlas líquidas, con carragenato (otro compuesto gelificante procedente de las algas rojas). Ferrán Adriá cocinaba sus croquetas líquidas con alginato, otra sustancia de origen marino. En general son productos sin contraindicaciones. Eso es como todo, quien quiera que investigue y se complique la vida. Pero nunca he probado una croqueta como la que hace Jesús Becerra en Becerrita, en Sevilla, con rabo de toro, en la que el colágeno de la cola es a la vez el espesante natural y el potenciador de una textura untuosa e inimitable.
Si recurrimos a las fuentes clásicas de los hogares españoles, la receta canónica más consensuada llevaría la bechamel (leche entera, mantequilla y harina), jamón o pollo para el relleno, nuez moscada, huevo y pan rallado para empanar y aceite de oliva virgen para freírlas. Punto. En algunas casas en las que la segunda o la tercera generación croquetera ha tomado los fogones empieza a detectarse cierta corriente pankista, o lo que es lo mismo, aficionados a usar el panko (un pan rallado japonés) para freírlas porque potencia el crujiente final.
Pero si por algo se caracteriza la croqueta contemporánea es por haber roto las fronteras de lo establecido en cuanto a sabores, formas y jerarquía en el menú. Libros Cúpula acaba de publicar Croquetas Gourmet de Chema Soler, un joven cocinero valenciano que ofrece una carta muy croquetera en La gastro by Chema Soler en la calle del Barco, 7 (Madrid) y otro local en el que combina la cocina asiática y mexicana también con un apartado de croquetas, en Street food by Chema Soler en Gandía (Valencia). El libro es una auténtica enciclopedia sobre la croqueta de vanguardia. Un centenar de recetas agrupadas en seis verticales: de carne, de mar, healthy-veggies, croquetas viajeras, dulces y croquetas “de mi infancia”. Salvo la de jamón con su consomé y alguna más, no busque sus referencias familiares porque no las va a encontrar. Es pura creatividad. Entre las de carne llama la atención la croqueta de callos a la madrileña con hummus de chorizo, la de cordero a la sidra con cabrales y pimientos verdes o la de txuleta con pimientos asados y huevo frito. Las croquetas de sepia gratinada con chipirones y gazpachuelo malagueño, las de merluza en salsa verde o las de carabineros con kimchi despiertan el apetito entre las que utilizan productos de mar.
En el apartado de croquetas saludables y veganas, dos: la croqueta de bravas y la de berenjena con miso rojo. Las croquetas viajeras son un compendio de influencias en las que incluye desde el curry con manzana y kikos, la croque de tacos de cochinita pibil o el sam de croqueta con pollo frito coreano. Ha tirado de la alacena de los sabores guardados en su memoria y rememora muchos platos de su madre basados en clásicos como el bacalao o el pisto con huevo frito, pero sin obviar unas de sobrasada con chocolate. En realidad, este hombre convierte cualquier cosa en una croqueta.
Quizás lo más llamativo sean sus propuestas de croquetas dulces, pensadas como postre: de tiramisú sobre gelatina de amaretto, roscón de reyes, de oreo o de dulce de leche con plátano, combinaciones que seducen aunque en realidad desde los dulces de Al-Andalus hay fritos en los postres. Es, en todo caso, un libro divertido que completa con un capítulo de trucos y sugerencias útil. Una biblia croqueteril.
Es imposible finalizar esta laudatio periodística a la croqueta sin abordar, siquiera brevemente, dos aspectos imprescindibles en este universo: algunas de las croquetas más celebradas de España y un segundo apartado que denominaríamos tendencias croqueteriles.
Hacer una lista de las mejores croquetas de España es un afán imposible: los pueblos han ido a la guerra por mucho menos. Pero entre las más acreditadas están las de Francis Paniego en El Portal de Echaurren (Ezcaray), que son las de su madre de toda la vida; las de Nacho Manzano en Casa Marcial (Arriondas), que llevan un rebozado con muy poca harina, etéreo; se cuentan maravillas de las de Víctor García de Plata Bistró (Barcelona), quien hierve la leche con el hueso de jamón para perfumarla; las de ortiguilla de Mario Jiménez de El Faro (Cádiz), donde su abuelo Gonzalo hacía otras de pargo que eran enciclopédicas. Concitan mucho consenso en Madrid las de Miguel Ángel Carretero en Santerra, las de Taberna Pedraza, con leche Priégola, que es de granja, y jamón de bellota; las de Arzábal, y las de jamón de Paco Ron en Viavélez. Destacan las de Iván Cerdeño en Toledo y las de Diego Fernández en Regueiro (Puerto de la Vega), ganador del campeonato internacional de croquetas Joselito. Tienen fama las de Sergio Martínez, un discípulo de Manzano, en Keki (Murcia). Servidor tiene debilidad por las de Pedro Gallego en Casa Mortero, detrás del Congreso de los diputados: impecables, cremosas, hijas de un fondo de jamón profundo y oscuro. La lista, obvio, sería interminable. Añadan las que gusten.
Y para terminar, las tendencias de la década en el proceloso mundo de la croqueta. Citamos al portal de referencia cosasdecome.es del croquetólogo Pepe Monforte, quien recoge un cónclave del Grupo gastronómico gaditano, en el que analizaron las tendencias de la década . Hay testimonios de expertos como Julio de la Torre, quien asegura que “el croquetón quita hambres ya no es tendencia, volvemos a lo pitiminí”. O las palabras de Casto Palacios, autor de la acreditada croqueta “minipimpuá de ibéricos”, quien considera que “el negro-choco en su tinta está totalmente out, como llevar un pearcing en la nariz, ahora vamos al negro-morcilla de la sierra, que se repite menos”. Igualmente citan la irrupción de la croqueta “tubista”, más cilíndrica que ovoidal. Luis Baltar, significado experto, vaticina que se va a llevar la croqueta melosa dulce y salada a la vez. El odontólogo y fino croquetista Marcos Zilbermann, autor de “Bechamel mucho” abomina del “microcroquetismo imperante”, muy en contra de las opiniones de De La Torre. Mientras que para Javi Osuna, investigador impenitente, en cualquier decálogo croqueteril del futuro deben figurar al menos estas siete exigencias: chiquitita pero matona; siempre calentita; dorado su manto crujiente; bechamel sinfónica, no aguaplast; estructura deforme (desconfíe de la uniformidad industrial); que venga con tropezones; y sin atrezzos (ni lechugas ni otras vainas). Por último, es relevante destacar que este grupo de estudiosos vaticina la irrupción del personal croquet, un nuevo nicho de empleo.
Esto, ni más ni menos, es lo que se cuece en los ilustrados y disfrutones círculos croqueteriles, aún dentro de los nueve días de devoción y de celebración de tan insigne invención culinaria.
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Siempre un corrimiento espiritual leer tus profundas y sabias experiencias.Solo una pregunta. Eres croquetero o croquetista ?.
Muy divertido y didáctico el artículo Antonio, felicidades.
De entre todo ese abanico croquetil inabarcable solamente hecho de menos una, La croqueta que llevaba dentro el pendiente que perdió Lola Flores en un programa de Iñigo. Las demás están toas!
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