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Radiografía de un país al que le gusta cocinar pero no cocina

Solo el 46% de los españoles cocina a diario por la falta de tiempo. Los hábitos cambian: restaurantes y bares, delivery y platos preparados colonizan los almuerzos y cenas

 los españoles nos gusta cocinar pero no cocinamos mucho. El 93% de los ciudadanos se muestra interesado por la gastronomía, pero la realidad es que menos de la mitad (46%) cocina a diario. Son datos de la encuesta “Nutrición y Gastronomía: una alianza de éxito” que ha hecho pública la Federación Española de Sociedades de Nutrición, Alimentación y Dietética (Fesnad). El tiempo que vivimos espídicamente es el primer motivo que se aduce para justificar la huelga de brazos caídos en los fogones. El acto de cocinar no deja de ser otra víctima colateral de la tremenda realidad en la que nos cuesta caer: los días solo tienen 24 horas. Y es así desde hace 3.500 años, cuando los egipcios dividieron el día en 24 partes que medían con un reloj de sol. Ellos no tenían seis o siete canales por cable, ni futbol televisado todos los días, ni parques de atracciones, viajes pagaderos en doce cuotas, trabajos con horarios interminables, no tenían internet ni recogían a los niños en Judo y clase de flauta, como mucho le llevaban unas torrijas al faraón y se hacían algún selfie en el Nilo. Las 24 horas les estiraban mucho. Se centraban más. Pero la cosa es que hoy como entonces el día dura 24 horas, nos pongamos como nos pongamos y andamos exprimiendo el tiempo disponible. Y en ese mecanismo de elección imprescindible, la dura realidad es que a muchas familias les cuesta demasiado trabajo consagrar unas horas del día a cocinar.

La tendencia se agudiza

Colmatadas las cocinas de todos los inventos tecnológicos y mecánicos para facilitar el cocinado de los productos -desde freidoras de aceite o aire, hornos, microondas, planchas o cuanta cacharrería quiera añadir- la cifra no mejora. Porque no tiene que ver con la dificultad sino con el tiempo disponible. «Nuestra cocina en el hogar está perdiendo importancia, no cocinamos a diario y cocinamos solos. No cocinamos todos los días por el poco tiempo que tenemos y la rapidez con la que vivimos», ha explicado la vicepresidenta de Fesnad, Rosaura Leis.

Es una tendencia que ha ido agudizándose además desde que a mitad del siglo XX la mujer fue incorporándose al mercado de trabajo. Es historia y etnografía: las mujeres han sido tradicionalmente las responsables del aprovisionamiento y la elaboración de los alimentos para la familia. Así, hoy más del 85% de las mujeres sabe cocinar, frente a un 57% de los hombres y aventajan en treinta puntos a los varones a la hora de hacer las compras alimentarias, según encuestas de la Fundación Mapfre. Cierto es que en edades comprendidas entre los 18 y los 30 años, la brecha se reduce notablemente a diez puntos. Importante avance, sí; pero insuficiente.

Sin embargo, los españoles salimos bien parados en otros aspectos. El 67% de los encuestados consumen frutas y verduras a diario (diez puntos por encima de la media de la UE) y un 65% consume lácteos cada día. Solo un 44% come “alguna vez” dulces y en cifras similares se incluyen en la dieta los derivados cárnicos como las salchichas o los embutidos.

Batch cooking – Foto 20 Minutos

Respecto a los hidratos de carbono, los españoles vivimos en la confusión habitual, lo que conduce a que solo el 29% de los ciudadanos los consuma a diario. Básicamente, pan, pasta, arroz y cereales. En realidad, los nutricionistas advierten de que los hidratos son una fuente relevante de energía en la dieta diaria y no es buena idea prescindir de ellos. Se trata de decidir cuáles son los que interesan y las cantidades.

A favor de los congelados

Otro de los elementos controvertidos como es el consumo de productos congelados cuenta con el beneplácito del 67% de los consumidores, que consideran que son una buena alternativa cuando se dispone de poco tiempo, una opinión que comparten los expertos siempre que estén bien congelados y tengan calidades mínimas. Un 7% entiende que son una mala opción. La idea de asociar alimentación saludable y sostenible funciona. El 95% de los encuestados apuesta por la cocina de aprovechamiento –la utilización de los alimentos sobrantes bajo distintas fórmulas- para reducir al mínimo los desperdicios alimentarios. Y aunque no saben que los marquetinianos de la cosa ya le han puesto nombre a esa práctica, el 56% admite que elabora comida y la deja preparada para varios días. A eso le llaman ahora el batckcooking aunque se ha hecho toda la vida con planificación, método, una nevera y muchos tuppers.

Según la encuesta de la Fesnad, un 97% de los españoles tienen una alta consideración por la cocina de nuestro país. Apoyo total. Consideramos que es una cocina de gran riqueza y nos sentimos afortunados por el modo en que nos alimentamos. Tras la cocina española, valoramos la italiana (77%), la asiática (62%) y la francesa (58%).

Foto – Gourmet4life

La decisión mayoritaria de no cocinar en casa ha ido derivándose en los últimos años a la restauración (70%) y el delivery, el take away o los platos listos para consumir que venden en los supermercados (30%), según estudios de Kantar. Desde 2019 se han dejado de elaborar más de 50 millones de almuerzos y cenas en los hogares españoles. Entendidas las objeciones, conviene decir que comer fuera de casa es por lo general menos sano. Hasta 200 calorías más se ingieren en un restaurante que en el domicilio. Un informe de Queens College City University of NY concluye de una encuesta entre 8.300 estadounidenses que quienes comen seis o más veces en la calle fiera de casa tienen más índice de masa corporal, menos colesterol bueno y un déficit de nutrientes en la sangre, incluyendo las vitaminas C y E. Igual es cosa del país de las hamburguesas, pero no conviene perder de vista lo sano que es comerse de noche en casa una tortilla a la francesa o un pescado a la plancha y alguna ensalada con tropezones, que tampoco cuesta tanto.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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  1. Eduardo el junio 24, 2023 a las 11:36 am

    Muy interesante, como de costumbre. De todas formas la falta de tiempo es en algunas ocasiones una excusa. . Por lo menos eso es lo que yo creo por mi experiencia. Durante los años en ye trabajábamos nunca dejamos de cocinar en casa y tanto mi mujer como yo nos hicimos maestría en cocina rápida, pero buen elaborada. No es tan difícil. Sólo es cuestión de sentido común y medir tiempos.

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