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Reinterpretando, actualizando y corrigiendo a Brillat-Savarin

Luis y Alexis Racionero publican la Fisiología del gusto del siglo XXI, una réplica al manual consagrado, base de toda la lietratura gastronómica posterior, que finalizó el hijo tras la muerte del escritor leridense.

ean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin publicó en 1825, solo dos meses antes de morir, sus Meditaciones de gastronomía trascendente, el gran clásico de la gastronomía, un tratado fundacional dedicado a los gastrónomos parisienses. El autor, que ya tenía firmada obra política y jurídica, colocó la clave de bóveda que soporta toda la literatura gastronómica posterior. Su libro, que ha llegado a nuestros días simplificado como Fisiología del gusto, fue alabado por Zola, Flaubert, Balzac -quien lo copia en su Fisiología del matrimonio- o Stendhal, quienes apreciaron en sus escritos el primer abordaje científico, histórico y poético, con un rico anecdotario y un conocimiento enciclopédico, de la cocina de su tiempo. El escritor y gastrónomo Néstor Luján escribe en el prólogo de la edición de 2001 de Editorial Óptima: “Es la obra más espiritual que se ha escrito sobre el arte de comer”. Aborda y explica el perfeccionamiento de los sentidos, invita a reflexionar sobre la función mecánica –“el movimiento isócrono de las mandíbulas que anuncia un trabajo regular” -y la dimensión espiritual de cada uno de ellos, desde la papilas de la lengua hasta la necesaria cooperación del olfato y el gusto. “La vida entera está gobernada por la gastronomía”, proclamaría el autor francés.


Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Casi dos siglos después, el escritor ilerdense Luis Racionero, fallecido en marzo de 2020, aceptó el reto de Ferrán Adriá de elaborar la Fisiología del gusto del Siglo XXI (El Bullibooks 2021), tarea que acometió a cuatro manos con su hijo Alexis, quien se encargó de finiquitar el libro tras el fallecimiento de su padre con la obra inconclusa.

Luis Racionero.

Padre e hijo hacen un interesante ejercicio de retrospectiva crítica pero respetuosa. Actualizan el conocimiento adquirido tras 200 años de evolución de la gastronomía. Corrigen, reinterpretan, matizan e incluso llevan la contraria a Brillat-Savarin, y lo hacen “como un diálogo íntimo entre ambos”, explica Alexis Racionero, con “una continuidad” con la obra de su padre “y el orgullo de una tradición común”. Conviene decir que Racionero padre, escritor de referencia, fue hippy en la California de los setenta hasta alcanzar con los años la cumbre del hedonismo, del afrancesamiento y del amor al vino de Borgoña. “Supo vivir en plenitud, hombre del renacimiento, poliédrico, visionario, culto y ensayista”, escribió en su necrológica el diplomático Eugeni Bregolat.

Los Racionero replican en la primera parte del libro la estructura del original. Brillat-Savarin comienza el suyo con una conversación con su amigo el doctor Richerand, sometiendo a su consideración la oportunidad de publicar tal libro. Los Racionero conversan entre ellos sobre la conveniencia de emprender el trabajo revisionista. La primera parte se convierte en una repuesta monitorizada a cada episodio de Brillat-Savarin. “Vamos a inventar cómo analizaría el autor francés esta nueva cocina de nuestro tiempo y cómo estaría escrita la nueva fisiología del gusto”, declaran en el prólogo.

Alexis Racionero.

Resulta interesante la supuesta actualización del pensamiento de Brillat-Savarin pasado por el tamiz de los dos siglos, de la pérdida de complejos de la gastronomía española y de las vivencias de los Racionero. De hecho, se proclama con orgullo el cambio entre la Francia consagrada y el despertar de la nueva cocina española. Para Brillat-Savarin, “el placer de la mesa es propio de cualquier edad, clase, nación y época. Puede combinarse con todos los demás placeres y subsiste hasta lo último para consolarnos de la pérdida de los otros”. Los Racionero definen, en cambio, la gastronomía como “el conocimiento razonado de todo lo que se refiere al hombre que come y bebe. Su objetivo es la conservación del ser humano por medio de la mayor alimentación posible”. Brillat también había abordado la cuestión digamos nutritiva llevándosela al terreno del apetito, en un tiempo en el que se consumían 300 pavos trufados cada día en Francia: “Es el resorte colocado por la providencia que instantáneamente avisa si las fuerzas y las necesidades están en equilibrio”.

Hay dos aspectos relevantes que habían sido abordados con profundidad por el ensayista francés: el gusto y la ciencia. Y son revisados ahora en el nuevo ensayo: “El gusto no es ya tan virgen como hace doscientos años”, sostienen, debido “al empastillamiento general” de la población, sea con antidepresivos o ansiolíticos, lo que sumado al estado del medio ambiente como ecosistema de los alimentos, opinan, lo convierte todo en artificioso. Respecto a la ciencia, advierten de que su evolución ha alterado profundamente la concepción y las posibilidades de la gastronomía. Desde los tres hallazgos del tiempo de Brillat-Savarin (la estereotomía, la geometría descriptiva y a química de los gases) a “la apoteosis del cambio científico” con la teoría cuántica para el átomo y la energía, la cibernética y la automatización de la agricultura, “lo que ha revolucionado las posibilidades de la gastronomía”.

Merece la pena reflexionar sobre la propuesta de los Racionero sobre el sofrito como base de la dieta nacional española y equivalente al potaje francés; o sobre el cambio de paradigma entre los financieros de mitad del XIX obligados a ser gourmands para demostrar su prevalencia social y el alto grado de refinamiento adquirido, frente a la nueva escala de valores en la Europa de hoy: “Ahora el prestigio se mide por quién tiene más grande el barco”. Brillat sostenía que quienes alcanzaban la fortuna se entregaban a los placeres de la mesa como signo de distinción. “Ahora están obligados a ser marineros o a lanzarse en cohetes a la luna”, escriben en la nueva obra padre e hijo.

La obra encierra, a modo de regalo, el pequeño pero gozoso relato mediterráneo de una cena en el Bulli a comienzos del siglo XXI. Luis Racionero ensaya el juego de la seducción con su amante, Martina, una voluptuosa y misteriosa francesa de ancestros bereberes, experta en vinos, maestra en hornear el cordero al horno con miel y hierbas afrodisiacas, de “mirada lasciva y penetrante” y experta en las artes amatorias. Una cena de las 1.001 noches en Cala Montjoi entre falsas espardeñas con sisho, sésamo y yuzu, y regada con Roederer Cristal y Batard Montrachet. De fondo los Moddy blues y la luna encendiendo “su reflejo sobre las aguas de un mar plácido”.

La tortilla y la cebolla, el take away, los huevos benedictine, la pularda o la becada. El tortell de nata, el Armagnac, la croqueta y las patatas fritas. Encontrará en estas páginas un amplio repaso, actualizado y defendido con pasión, de la mayoría de los elementos que forman parte de la conversación gastronómica de hoy. Es un interesante ejercicio literario de asimilación, investigación, corrección, ampliación, actualización y réplica. Y mucho kilometraje de praxis.

En Luis Racionero se citan, raramente, la ortodoxia y la vanguardia. El conocimiento y la praxis de la tradición culinaria francesa -especialmente- y su evolución. Se mezcla la iconoclastia con la observancia de algunas normas y el respeto a algunas instituciones, como cuando le pidió a su amigo Nestor Luján que le gustaría entrar en la Academia Española de Gastronomía, de la que era presidente honorario. A lo que Luján le respondió: “!Pues a mí me gustaría salir!”.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

 

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