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Si Camba levantara la cabeza

La literatura gastronómica actual de calidad se pierde entre las baratijas de las redes. Breve recorrido por la obra de cuatro clásicos: Cunqueiro, Pla, Camba y Luján.

os cocineros hoy reinan y gobiernan en España. No hay nadie más relevante en el universo gastronómico español que los chefs. Y es lógico que así sea. Aunque el estrellato deslumbra también engaña y oculta el esfuerzo, la creatividad, el empeño económico y el trabajo que hay detrás de cada carta. Pero hubo un tiempo en el que en el universo gastronómico hubo otras estrellas.

A lo largo del siglo XX español, cuando la cocina española aun no gozaba del prestigio actual -aunque las primeras estrellas Michelin llegaron a España en 1929, premiando la cocina de siete hoteles, según cancela.org– ni figuraba entre las preferencias de los gourmands internacionales, salvo excepciones tan contadas como informadas, los escritores y periodistas gastronómicos ocupaban un espacio propio en ese universo. Su trabajo, pleno de calidad literaria y erudición ilustrada, casi configura un género en sí mismo. Ignorados en las escuelas y rescatados las más de las veces por profesores y aficionados a la gastronomía y/o la literatura, hoy expanden retardadamente su influencia: sus cánones clásicos, la mirada contemplativa, incluso el cinismo y la ironía cultivada. El enfoque culto y gozoso de la gastronomía española de ayer tiene todo el sentido hoy. Ojalá la crítica gastronómica siguiera ese camino. Lógicamente no se puede esperar que la literatura gastronómica del siglo XXI se asemeje a la de mediados del siglo XX. Pero entre lo sublime y lo ridículo hay mucho margen.

Hay muchas excepciones, extraordinarias por otra parte. Pero las redes que todo lo deforman equiparan lo absurdo y lo sustancial. Asistimos impávidos al show de un carrusel de espontáneos que suspenden una ensalada templada por servirse dos grados por debajo de la temperatura de no sé sabe qué canon. Más preocupados por el encuadre que por la esencia, por el frame que por el origen de un plato, cuando no de sacar gratis el almuerzo a cambio de un post. Comen mucho pero no saborean nada. Miran mucho pero no ven nada. Coleccionistas de restaurantes. Cazadores de novedades que entienden poco pero escriben mucho. Comen a porfía pero no digieren la experiencia y mucho menos son capaces de calzarle al texto algún ardid literario. Instagram ha creado el nuevo mundo del que pocos se sustraen. Está bien. Es el signo de los tiempos y de todo hay en la viña del señor. Pero reivindiquemos hoy, breve y excepcionalmente, el talento de ayer, con nombre propio, calidad y estilo. Las fuentes en las que aún se puede y debe beber. Autores mucho más modernos que el escuadrón de instagramers contemporáneos dispuestos a invertir el pulgar con un ego más acreditado que su criterio.

En lo concerniente a la gastronomía estamos mejor que nunca en nuestra historia. En cuanto a literatura gastronómica -con permiso de Xavier Agulló, Ignacio Peyró, Pau Arenós, Paz Ívison, Federico Oldenburg, Ignacio Medina, David Remartínez, Ana Vega, Mónica Escudero, Víctor de Serna, José Carlos Capel y otros pocos- vamos muy por debajo de nuestras posibilidades. ¿Cómo hemos llegado aquí? Como dijo Belmonte de su banderillero en jefe, Joaquín Miranda, quien llegó a Gobernador Civil de Huelva, cuando alguien le preguntó cómo se pasaba de banderillear morlacos con El Pasmo de Triana a gobernador: “Pues endegenerando”, dijo el maestro.

Lo que sigue a continuación es una pequeña selección de clásicos de la mejor literatura gastronómica, todos del siglo XX. Algunos de ellos compatibilizaron su condición de gastrónomos con el periodismo, la dramaturgia, la novela y la poesía. De ahí su solidez y su profundidad oceánica. Faltan algunos. Y hay que señalar que muchos de estos bebieron en fuentes antiguas y en su propia curiosidad. Cuatro recomendaciones para sumergirse en la mejor la literatura gastronómica.

Álvaro Cunqueiro (Mondoñedo, 1911)

Cunqueiro es el exponente de un trabajo intelectual de primera magnitud: cultivó todos los campos de la escritura e hizo blasón de su galleguismo, que llevó a su epitafio: “Aquí yace alguien que, con su obra, hizo que Galicia durase mil primaveras más”. Periodista de ABC y colaborador de toda la prensa gallega, militó en el bando nacional hasta su ruptura con la Falange, lo que le valió la retirada de su carné de periodista. El periodista mindoniense –Mondoñedo, ciudad “rica en pan, en aguas y en latín”, decía- ha pasado a la historia como uno de los grandes de las letras gallegas.  Hacia los años sesenta se ganó bien merecida fama de bon vivant burgués: no hubo jurado gastronómico que no presidiera ni ceremonia vinícola que no oficiara. Raimundo García “Borobó”, considerado maestro de periodistas gallegos, escribió sobre el Cunqueiro esteta: “Su obra es un prodigio de joyería literaria que admira al lector desde un punto de vista estético pero no emocional ni sensorial. El lector dirá, ¡vaya página bonita!, pero jamás dirá: ¡qué bien sabe este plato!”.

La profesora María Liñeira, profesora en Oxford y experta en Cunqueiro, sostiene que el escritor gallego mantuvo “una polinización cruzada de ideas” con algunos gourmets catalanes centrada en “la amenaza que supuso la revolución industrial para la existencia de una cocina nacional”. Álvaro Cunqueiro gastrónomo o la lucha contra la barbarie alquímica, se titula el trabajo de Liñeira. Cunqueiro, como otros de su tiempo, mostraba su preocupación por cómo la revolución industrial alteraba las costumbres y los hábitos de vida la migración masiva a la ciudad, incluyendo el modo de alimentarse y la disponibilidad de alimentos.

Imprescindible leer La cocina cristiana de Occidente, una recopilación de muchos de sus artículos periodísticos en los que plasmaba su pasión gastronómica, su conocimiento del vino y sus “inventos”. En 1946 inició una serie en la revista Finisterre bajo el sugerente título de Historia de las tabernas gallegas y cinco años después escribe para la editorial del Centro Gallego de Buenos Aires su libro La cocina gallega. En ocasiones, en los textos de Cunqueiro la gastronomía parece solo una coartada, tal es su altura literaria.

(Cunqueiro sobre las codornices: “Engordan y engrasan, beatas ellas, haciendo pasar a sus mantecas los granos y las hierbas de que se alimentan, tomando ellas mismas el trabajo de cebarse de comida, sol y quietud”.)

Josep Pla (Palafrugell, 1897)

Pla es el gran cronista de su tiempo. Viajero y payés. Un disfrutón – gourmand, si quieren aunque él renegaba del término- pero, paradójicamente, con un punto asceta respecto a la exhuberancia gastronómica, que leyó perfectamente el alma de las cosas de comer de toda la vida. La gastronomía de su país, finito y eterno como es el Ampurdán, fue el eje de su trabajo. Realmente, se costreñía a tres referencias geográficas: el Ampurdán, Cataluña y Europa, donde incluía a España y su cocina. Busca la desnudez, la mínima expresión de la cocina para transmitir lo máximo, un sentimiento impregnado siempre de nostalgia. En Pla, además, la gastronomía es seña de identidad y referencia de paisaje y paisanaje. Es identitaria. Le importaba el sabor, la pureza, la autenticidad y abominaba tato de los exotismos como de las gastronomías lejanas. “Mi ideal culinario es la simplicidad, compatible en todo momento con un determinado grado de sustancia. Pido una cocina simple y ligera, sin ningún elemento de digestión pesada, una cocina sin taquicardias”. El menos es más debió inventarlo este palafrugellense con boina de quien se cita recurrentemente su exordio victimista aquella tarde que paseaba por las Ramblas de Barcelona observando las bien provistas mesas burguesas: “Tengo 18 años y aún no he probado las ostras. ¡Soy un desgraciado!”. Y de quien dijo “Borobó” que tenía “una facilidad milagrosa para expresar las esencias ilegibles de las sardinas”.

Su libro cumbre es Lo que hemos comido (El que hem menjat), que es, claramente, un libro sobre la memoria, las añoranzas y los sentimientos en torno a la cocina mediterránea. El libro es un recorrido maravilloso por sus experiencias a través de los elementos troncales de esa gastronomía: aceite de oliva, ensaimadas, butifarras, guisos, salsas, asados, legumbres o arroces, Y la escudella i carn d´olla, que se comía casi a diario en el Ampurdán: un cocido con galets (caracolas de pasta), pilotas (albóndigas alargadas hechas con carne, huevo, pan, ajo y perejil) y butifarras negras y blancas en rodajas.

De Pla, quien estaba convencido de que “la memoria culinaria personal o colectiva es la más susceptible de pervivir”, escribió Vázquez Montalbán que “su paladar pertenecía la infancia al calor de una cocina marcada por las texturas de la tierra y el mar, por el sustrato de una memoria culinaria ensimismada”.

(Plá sobre la cocina y la inteligencia: “La cocina es la más arcaica de todas las artes. Se han consagrado a su elaboración personas de gran inteligencia y de agudeza incomparable. Si la política hubiese llegado a los momentos estelares a que llegó la cocina, otro gallo le hubiese cantado a la pobre y triste humanidad”.)

 

Julio Camba (Vilanova de Arousa, 1884)

Camba fue y sigue siendo un articulista imprescindible. Parafraseando a los argentinos y su pasión encendida por Gardel, Camba cada día escribe mejor. Irónico sin llegar a sarcástico, refinado y elegante, sorprendente, largo y picofino. Fue hombre de mundo: Argentina (allí llegó como polizón en un barco y se empleó en redactar panfletos anarquistas hasta que fue expulsado del país), Constantinopla (corresponsal de La correspondencia de España) o corresponsal de ABC en París, Londres, Berlín y Nueva York: soleado en cien gastronomías, se sumergía en la realidad culinaria de cada país extrayendo lo mejor de cada despensa. “Los pueblos tienen siempre los gobiernos y los restaurantes que se merecen”. A decir de la periodista Angie Ramón Rodríguez, fue Camba “un dandi sin hogar, un trotamundos con porte y un amante de su perro salchicha y del alcohol”.

Su figura se distancia por ejemplo notablemente de la de Pla: paladar más refinado, gusto por la cocina francesa, considerada por él como la mejor del mundo, amigo de caviares y gustos más exclusivos pero a la vez militante de guisos sabrosos y sobre todo de la carne, para la que apostaba por la mantequilla como mejor grasa para su cocinado. Reclamaba conocimiento en la mesa para conjurar el esnobismo y la idiocia y para saber apreciar lo que da la tierra: “La comida popular, buena o mala, debe constituir para el viajero un dato de tanto valor como el paisaje, con el que guarda siempre una íntima afinidad. Lo uno explica lo otro, y el automovilista que se ponga a comer caviar en la paramera de Ávila no comprenderá la solemnidad de la paramera ni apreciará tampoco la exquisitez del caviar, y será al mismo tiempo un pésimo viajero y un gastrónomo abominable”.

Es posible que usted conozca a Camba por su aversión al ajo: “La cocina española está llena de ajo y preocupaciones religiosas”, una sentencia que ha pasado a la historia y que es solo equiparable al rechazo que le provocaba el bulbo a Victoria Beckam, mucho menos ilustrada que el gallego.

Leer a Camba es ensanchar el alma y divertirse con la mirada de un periodista iconoclasta casi siempre cargado de sentido común pero que juega a desprenderse de él. La Casa de Lúculo o el arte de comer, escrita en 1927, a diferencia de casi toda su producción que eran recopilaciones de artículos, es uno de los libros más importantes de la gastronomía española. Sus reflexiones y observaciones son a la vez nutritivas, mordaces y profundas. Erudito en vinos, técnicas de cocina, en la calidad de los alimentos y sus elaboraciones, es una obra gigante. Imprescindible si tiene curiosidad gastronómica o si solo aspira al placer de una lectura irrepetible. Bendecida la cocina francesa -y sus vinos y su coñac-, abominaba de la gastronomía inglesa por inexistente, aunque glosaba la calidad de sus carnes; respetaba la adustez de la alemana y la italiana e ironizaba sobre la cocina norteamericana: “¿Qué clase de cocina quieren ustedes que tenga un pueblo sometido a la ley seca?”.

Además de su producción gastronómica, acumula trabajos como La ciudad automática que es un canto al escepticismo del gallego que llega a Nueva York hasta que, con humor y rendida admiración, sucumbe a sus encantos. Como corresponde a una vida viajera, y a la mirada lúcida, pelín cínica y divertida de un bon vivant, Camba acabó sus días viviendo en la habitación 383 del Hotel Palace de Madrid a cuenta del banquero Juan March. Ese hotel centenario que acogió a estrellas de toda índole, quirófanos durante la guerra civil y hasta la reunión de subsecretarios constituida como Gobierno de emergencia durante el golpe de Tejero el 23-F en 1981.

(Julio Camba sobre el ajo:” Los españoles nos cauterizamos con ajo el paladar, así como los yanquis se los cauterizan con alcoholes helados y contradictorios, y si nuestras cocineras son tan aficionadas al ajo, no es porque este condimento les sirva para hacer una buena comida, sino, al contrario, porque les sirve para no tener que hacerla”.)

 

Néstor Luján (Mataró, 1922)

Periodista, gastrónomo de referencia, y hombre de insobornables opiniones, cultivó la literatura gastronómica y de viajes, posiblemente como una válvula de escape de los aconteceres políticos. No en vano en 1969 se vio obligado a dejar la dirección de la revista Destino por una sentencia del Tribunal de Orden Público. Al parecer, Luján machacó con sadismo la cocina de Paradores Nacionales, la institución, que hoy pervive, creada por Manuel Fraga. La vida a veces se cobra piezas insospechadamente y con efecto: en 2018 Paradores Nacionales obtuvo el premio “Néstor Luján” que concede la Academia de Gastronomía como mejor institución gastronómica del año por sus desvelos en la recuperación de la cocina regional.

Luján, que recibió importantes premios literarios a lo largo de su vida, constituyó con otros gastrónomos el colectivo Los puercos de la piara de Epicuro, una sociedad gastronómica que celebraba pantagruélicos encuentros en restaurantes de medio mundo. Sus libros gastronómicos más relevantes son Historia de la cocina española (1970), El libro del chocolate (1979), La cuina catalana (La cocina catalana), de 1982, y El arte de comer (1983).

En Historia de la cocina española, que escribió con el también escritor Juan Perucho, disertaba sobre la teoría del gusto, al estilo de Brillat-Savarin en La fisiología del gusto, la madre de los todos los tratados de cocina y cuya edición en Editorial Óptima prologa Luján. Se trata de uno de los compendios ya clásicos de la cocina española con todas sus variantes regionales.

Luján, quien, se ganó un lugar propio en los círculos culturales de París, presumía de tener una biblioteca con más de 30.000 títulos.

(Luján sobre el vino: “Recuerden que los grandes tiranos han sido abstemios, como Hitler”.)

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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