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Autoridades, próceres y celebridades siguen firmando las botas de vino en las bodegas de Jerez, una tradición que forma parte del pedigrí de sus bodegas
as bodegas del marco de Jerez son un micromundo con sus propias normas, hábitos y rituales. Tan especiales son que en algunas de ellas, como la de González Byass, que ancla sus orígenes en 1838, hay calles que forman parte del complejo bodeguero y alberga los consulados de Italia, Dinamarca o Suecia en la propia bodega. Especiales y únicas porque de una misma uva salen hasta cuatro joyas vinícolas, porque algunas albergan en sus jardines hasta 400 especies de árboles y plantas. Tan singulares son las bodegas del marco de Jerez que su libro de visitas no es de papel: es de madera de roble americano y los insignes firmantes no utilizan pluma, sino una humilde tiza, cuyo trazo está llamado a pervivir por los años entre vaharadas de vino fino, en la umbría de estas catedrales humedecidas por el albero.
Las dos botas firmadas más antiguas que se conocen son de 1879, rubricada por el ingeniero agrónomo Gumersindo Fernández de la Rosa; y de 1833, firmada por Leopoldo Alas “Clarín”; escritor español, padre de los amores sacrílegos de don Fermín de Pas por doña Ana Ozores en La regenta, una de las obras cumbre en español en el XIX. Bota es el nombre que recibe el barril de vino en Jerez. Un depósito de 500 litros donde se crían los vinos de la tierra bajo de velo de flor y en oxidación. Las botas más prominentes de finos, manzanillas, amontillados, olorosos, palo cortados y pedro Ximénez están forradas de firmas legendarias. No se sabe a ciencia cierta el origen de la costumbre. Pero es palpable que ha ido reproduciéndose a lo largo del tiempo en casi todas las bodegas. Honrar al visitante ilustre brindándole una bota para su firma es a su vez una forma de ser honrados. Esas rúbricas requieren ser repasadas con habilidad artística cada cierto tiempo para evitar que la tiza vuele convirtiendo el sello nominal de los visitantes en polvo que se funde con el aroma a jerez, convirtiéndolo en un recuerdo invisible e indemostrable. Las botas firmadas forman parte del hermoso pedigrí de estas bodegas.
No todas las marcas han sido capaces de conservar sus botas firmadas. Distintos avatares que van desde el descuido negligente, la falta de perspectiva o hasta la venta de las bodegas, han provocado la pérdida de muchos recuerdos. Posiblemente son González Byass, Osborne, Fundador, Gutiérrez Colosía o William Humbert algunas de las que mejor conservan esas reliquias. Con Pedro Pacheco como alcalde de la ciudad se construyó en el ayuntamiento la célebre bodeguita donde se recibía a las autoridades de más ringorrango. Allí también se conservan botas firmadas por la mano de próceres y autoridades en todos los campos.
Incluso circula una leyenda en torno a cuatro botas de William Humbert firmadas por The Beatles. Cuando los chicos de Liverpool tocaron en España en 1965, Beltrán Domecq González, entonces consejero delegado de la bodega, ideó una acción publicitaria de su marca para promocionarla en el mercado británico -caladero histórico de estos vinos- aprovechando el esperadísimo concierto, que no contaba precisamente con la simpatía del régimen, que percibía al cuarteto con un halo de modernidad que amenazaba las costumbres beatas impuestas por decreto en una España cuya prensa franquista llamaba a los Liverpool “degenerados melenudos”. Llevó Domecq cuatro botas al Hotel Fénix, donde se alojaban los melenudos, y tras un acto algo envarado, los músicos firmaron las cuatro botas. De alguna manera las botas acabaron medio abandonadas en un rincón de la bodega donde se reparaban otras defectuosas. Y quedaron sepultadas por el tiempo. Un grupo de aficionados a la música de los beatles, con el tiempo, rescataron en la propia bodega las firmadas por Paul MacCartney y Ringo Starr. Las que habían rubricado John Lennon y George Harrison estaban en paradero desconocido. Hasta que al cabo de los años las cuatro botas, flamantes y firmadas por los cuatro Beatles aparecieron en un lugar de honor en la bodega. Las dos esquivas exhibían unas firmas que se parecían a las originales como un huevo a una castaña. Pero se obró el milagro y hoy en William Humbert se exponen cuatro botas rubricadas por el conjunto más exitoso del siglo pasado. Si no è vero è ben trovato, que dijo el filósofo Giordano Bruno.
La cosa da para tanto que hasta el consejo regulador impulsó en 2015 la Andana de la fama, una serie de botas firmadas por los pilotos que competían en el circuito jerezano. Ángel Nieto fue el primer firmante. La última bota de honor ha sido firmada en la zona hace solo dos meses por el rey don Felipe VI en la bodega de Osborne, en El Puerto de Santa María, con motivo del acto conmemorativo del 250 aniversario de la bodega.
Un paseo entre las andanas -el conjunto de botas colocadas en hilera y contiguas- es un repaso a la historia de España y el recuerdo de muchas celebridades mundiales. Alexander Fleming dejó escrita en una de ellas: «Si la penicilina cura a los enfermos, el jerez resucita a los muertos». Otros como Orson Welles, más críptico, solo dejaron su firma y la fecha: 4/28/61. Octavio Paz, Jacinto Benavente o Margaret Thatcher. El actor Charlton Heston dejó escrito: «With my best wishes and thanks».
Pero hay de todo. Lola Flores, hija de la tierra, más expresiva, escribió en una bota de brandy de Sánchez Romate: “Dios mío, este coñac es el que me da el temperamento. ¡Viva el Cardenal Mendoza ¡”.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Mucho arte conservado entre esas paredes. Botas legendarias.
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