Y ahora ¿qué comemos?, un viaje inquietante a la industria alimentaria con el guía que llegó del lado oscuro
Christophe Brusset, quien trabajó durante 25 años en el sector, desvela daños a la salud, fraudes y prácticas poco éticas de los fabricantes
ara no comprar comida basura en los supermercados se necesita constancia, adiestramiento básico para evitar las trampas y sobre todo unas gafas de aumento para leer la letra pequeña de los envases. Ahí está el código alfanumérico que lo chiva todo. Lo sabemos, pero es que resulta imposible leerse esa literatura química en cada lata de atún o en el bote de salsa de tomate. Bienvenidos al apasionante mundo de los sorbatos, nitritos, sulfitos y antioxidantes. Además, muchos símbolos, compuestos y porcentajes dejarán indiferente a los neófitos. Pero avisados estamos. Para facilitarnos el camino, Christophe Brusset, un ingeniero agroalimentario con veinticinco años de experiencia en empresas y multinacionales del sector como comprador de materias primas en el mercado mundial, ha publicado Y ahora ¿qué comemos? (editorial Península /Atalaya), que debe entenderse como una continuación de su exitoso ¡Cómo puedes comer eso¡, un libro polémico que circuló de mano en mano y en el que revelaba algunas prácticas del sector sobre la comida industrial y la ignorancia de los consumidores sobre lo que compramos.
El diablo está en los detalles. Como en aquella tarrina de mantequilla que adquirió el autor, por error y con prisas, en un supermercado en Singapur bajo el nombre de buttor en vez de butter. De una letra a otra se abría un mundo de posibilidades perfectamente ajustado a la ley: la auténtica mantequilla contiene al menos un 82% de grasa que proviene exclusivamente de la leche mientras que aquel otro producto estaba hecho con un 80% de grasas que eran en su mayoría aceites vegetales, agua, fermentos lácticos, permeado de leche, suero de leche, sal, colorante y caroteno. Todo pese a que la UE obliga a que las etiquetas de los productos comestible deben ser “claras y comprensibles, absolutamente legibles, incluidos la tipografía, el color y el contraste”. Al final lo único que se lee bien en las etiquetas es el código de barras, que sirve para cobrar en caja. Cosas del “marketing engañoso” del “lado oscuro del food-bussiness”, como lo llama el autor. Denuncia que detrás de estas prácticas hay una estrategia deliberada por incrementar los beneficios poniendo en el mercado productos con los costes más baratos posibles, además del uso masivo de aditivos, abuso de pesticidas, de las optimizaciones fiscales, las deslocalizaciones salvajes, la manipulación y la explotación laboral. No, la industria alimentaria no debe andar muy contenta con este libro, aunque algunas de estas prácticas que revela son comunes en muchos sectores. Admite el experto que “a los fabricantes no le es indiferente la salud de sus clientes, pero su objetivo principal es ganar dinero; ese es el criterio que valoran sus jefes y accionistas” y en ese camino de la maximización del beneficio se produce una minimización de las calidades. Es un mundo en el que se antepone la venta a la salud, una práctica que va justo en la dirección contraria de los nuevos paradigmas. Hay miles de ejemplos: como la multinacional que fabrica saleros de plástico para restaurantes y calcula el número de boquetes que debe llevar el dispensador para disparar el consumo de sal y consiguientemente las ventas, ignorando cualquier recomendación de las autoridades para moderar el consumo de sal en la dieta. O la reutilización de una partida de concentrado de salsa de tomate (de procedencia china, país cuya industria controla por completo el mercado mundial de los derivados de tomate) “marrón, que apestaba a neumático quemado y con un sabor indescriptible, algo metálico, agrio y a moho”, explica Brusset. “Pero un buen fabricante sabe cómo utilizar esa clase de productos, a eso se le llama savoir-faire; además, por algo se inventaron los aditivos”. Aquella partida de 1.500 toneladas permitió a Brusset “pagar el precio más bajo de mi carrera por un concentrado de tomate”. Hoy dice avergonzarse de aquello.
En otro de los vértices de la responsabilidad de estas prácticas sitúa, por un lado, a las administraciones públicas, cuyos controles son ineficaces e insuficientes, funcionan “como una red apolillada”; y en el otro a los lobbies que pululan por Bruselas, bien armados financieramente, disfrazados de institutos, centros de información o centros de investigación tratando de hacer pasar como información objetiva y científicamente verificable “su propaganda engañosa”.
Con la intención de combatir “el sesgo de años de propaganda y campañas de marketing de los fabricantes”, Brusset trata de desmontar en su libro los diez principales prejuicios sobre la alimentación. Así, advierte sobre las marcas blancas y afirma que no todas valen la pena y que no merece la pena “esperar milagros” porque “la buena calidad nunca se rebaja”. Cuestiona que comer sano sea caro: “depende más de cambiar los hábitos sin que se dispare el presupuesto”. La tercera idea asentada que combate es la de que las autoridades te protegen de los abusos. En realidad, ante la incapacidad de la administración para controlar todos los productos que entran en un país, optan por establecer las reglas y fiarlo al “autocontrol” de la industria. “Es como si los conductores tuvieran que controlar ellos mismos su velocidad”, añade. El quinto principio cuestionado inquieta: contra la creencia de que “si está permitido significa que no es peligroso”, antepone la utilización legal de “venenos permitidos” en los productos de la industria alimentaria, “aditivos o pesticidas”, muchos de los cuales son nocivos y pueden resultar cancerígenos. “Me indigna profundamente que se legalice el envenenamiento colectivo con el único fin de asegurar los beneficios de las multinacionales”. Defiende que el azúcar es más peligroso que la grasa, pide que no se identifique la comida basura solo con la de las marcas fast-food porque el peligro “está en todas partes”, y alerta sobre las calidades que se utilizan en muchos restaurantes. Y sobre todo reitera que como consumidores debemos estar alerta porque no todo lo que debemos saber se cuenta en los envases.
El libro no deja títere con cabeza: identifica prácticas poco recomendables respecto a los productos frescos y los congelados, incluyendo alimentos preparados y helados. Hay para los productos secos (legumbres) y en conserva, las especias -¡ese aceite de palma que se utiliza para darle el tono brillante a las guindillas ¡- los frutos secos, chocolates y golosinas. O el inmenso mundo de las galletas, las patatas fritas o los aperitivos variados, que mejor ni leerlo porque se asemeja a un acto de autoenvenenamiento gozoso mientras ves un partido de fútbol. La sección de productos saludables y de dietética o el legendario engaño de los productos light también se analiza. La cosa alcanza hasta los productos para bebés, leches artificiales o purés, que también incorporan aditivos, azúcares y almidones modificados.
Brusset deja un consejo útil: la utilización de las aplicaciones de móvil que utilizan la base de datos de Openfoodfacts, una asociación sin ánimo de lucro que chequea todos los datos que figuran en los envases y los traduce para que los entendamos. Te explican ingrediente a ingrediente y sobre todo te detallan el Nutri-Score, que es el código de cinco colores que indica la calidad nutricional de lo que estás comprando. Entre ellas, destacan dos apps, Yuka o Scan-eat, dos vademécum que alertan e informan sobre qué estas comprando exactamente. Luz en la oscuridad.
Pero el libro es un sinvivir. Todo está lleno de trampas. Es un viaje con Conrad al corazón de los rincones más oscuros del alma humana y de la industria. Es desasosegante porque todo parece una conspiración. Y aunque, obviamente, no es posible extender la sospecha sobre todos los productos de los lineales, se impone la idea de que alguien que viene de trabajar del “lado oscuro” debe saber bien de qué habla. La pregunta es si los consumidores realmente queremos saber y si nos tomamos las molestias básicas para saber qué consumimos. Porque ante las revelaciones de este libro solo caben dos opciones: que prendan al autor o que la fiscalía actúe de oficio.
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Madre mía!!!!!!!!. Que horror, algo podíamos sospechar de este circo de productos mentirosos y dañinos. Pero aún parece peor.
Muchas gracias por ayudarnos a abrir los ojos a la hora de comprar y de consumir determinados productos. Es muy importante estar bien informados.
Estoy de acuerdo con el final del artículo.. Las autoridades deberían tomar cartas en el asunto. Es incomprensible el pasotismo de la las administraciones públicas en una realidad que nos afecta a todos.
Tremendo Antonio!
La posibilitad de alimentarse de forma saludable se ha convertido en casi una quimera para cualquier familia en un entorno que no sea el rural y autónomo. Vamos a necesitar una granja propia.
Gracias por abrirnos los ojos aunque las preguntas a partir de ahora se multiplican.
Abrazos.
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