Doce noticias gastronómicas que nos deja 2021
Desde el avance del negocio Food line, hasta el bar que rebaja diez céntimos a los feos, pasando por el vino chino del desierto del Gobi y la mejor ensaladilla de Madrid, que se cocina en un hospital
021 ha sido un año interesante en lo gastronómico, pese a todo. Luchando aún con el covid y esa yenka que tiene al sector un paso para adelante y uno para atrás, se han ido asentando nuevas realidades y hábitos. Las aperturas de nuevos restaurantes es una realidad en toda España. El empuje de los nuevos cocineros, la sofisticación de la industria y las noticias que nos llegan de China marcan el año. Desde la resaca de las estrellas Michelin, a la imaginación de los bares de barrio. El mercado se mueve. Aquí van doce campanadas que nos deja 2021. Burbujeantes y cada una con su puntito.
Comerse hasta la vajilla
2021 ha sido el año en el que han empezado a popularizarse en muchos establecimientos las vajillas comestibles. Azuzados por los consumidores más concienciados y militantes con los principios de la economía circular, los restaurantes y bares han ido incorporando vajillas comestibles fabricadas con fibra de manzana y otros productos, como los de Wisefood. O las cucharas hechas con una pasta de arroz, mijo y trigo por la compañía india Bakey´s. En la India se tiran cada año a la basura 120 billones de cubiertos de plástico. Las hamburguesas Bobs, de Brasil, se sirven con un papel comestible. Y Diane Leclair Bisson hace bases y envoltorios con patata, maíz y trigo. Cero residuos. El fin de los cubiertos y platos de plástico.
El año que Michelin no dejó más triestrellados
Crece el reconocimiento a restaurantes españoles que se elevan a su primera estrella (184), que es la generación que viene empujando y algunos veteranos con un trabajo excelente sostenido en el tiempo. Se suman cuatro con dos estrellas (33) y se mantienen los once triestrellados. Pero la guía, siempre parca con España, no dejó ningún nuevo tres estrellas . Cuesta adivinar qué separa a Disfrutar, Coque, Camarena, Noor o Atrio, entre otros, de su tercera estrella.
Los grandes del delivery, a la fuga
Las grandes plataformas especializadas en la entrega de comida domicilio en la UE -Delivery Hero, Just Eat y Deliveroo- han perdido este año casi 9.000 millones de capitalización bursátil tras la decisión de Bruselas de regularizar laboralmente a los más de cuatro millones de repartidores, igual que los empleados de Cabify y similares. El impacto por la regularización es de 4.500 millones. Deliveroo despidió a sus 1.800 trabajadores y se fue de España. Un negocio que consiste en no tener en cuenta los derechos laborales y que deja de operar cuando tiene que asumirlos simplemente no es negocio.
Cae la venta de carne de cerdo, con China al fondo
El dato parcial del primer semestre indica una caída del 6% en las ventas de carne de cerdo española al exterior. La clave, una vez más, está en China. Durante dos años, debido a una epidemia de peste porcina, la cabaña china se redujo drásticamente, lo que tiró de la exportación de cerdo español con un incremento del 22%. Los chinos han estabilizado su cabaña y tienen un plan para producir el 95% del cerdo que consumen de aquí a diez años. El sector porcino en España tiene un peso relevante: es el 14% de la producción final agraria. Y, al fondo, el jamón de bellota, ese tótem con el que el sector quiere enganchar a 110 millones de chinos.
La mejor ensaladilla, la terapia secreta de un hospital
Resulta que la mejor ensaladilla rusa de Madrid 2021 se hace en un hospital. Xandra Luque, la cocinera de la Clínica Universidad de Navarra, ganó el certamen anual de la Asociación de Cocineros y Reposteros de Madrid. La hace pochando mucho la patata a fuego muy lento como si fuera para tortilla. El bonito lo escabecha en vinagre de manzana, utiliza huevos de campo y la remata con una esferificación de aceituna verde manzanilla. La cocinera, que venció a cocineros con restaurantes, algunos consagrados, recibe habitualmente felicitaciones de los pacientes. Ahora se plantea hacerla también para la calle.
Sanlúcar de Barrameda, capital gastronómica
La población gaditana de Sanlúcar de Barrameda, en la desembocadura del Guadalquivir, será la primera ciudad que sin ser capital tendrá la capitalidad gastronómica. Será en 2022. Solo el legado vinícola de las bodegas sanluqueñas, con la manzanilla como referente absoluto, justifican la decisión. Pero Sanlúcar es mucho más. Sus langostinos son imperiales y sus platos de cuchareo de guiso marineros son una cumbre. Una repostería fina y el coto de Doñana, la Argónida perdida de caballero Bonald, enfrente.
El restaurante de las 40 horas
Oriol Hivern ha sido tendencia este año tras decidir que la calidad de su restaurante no irá contra los derechos de los trabajadores. Su casa, Hisop, con una estrella Michelin, en Barcelona, presume de que sus empleados trabajan exactamente 40 horas semanales. De hecho, uno de los grandes retos de la hostelería es el de la sostenibilidad laboral. Hisop empezó a cambiar la organización, los flujos de trabajo y las prioridades en 2015 y aceleró con la pandemia. Pasó de 30 a 20 plazas. Hoy el sueldo más bajo es el del encargado de la limpieza: 1.450 euros. Se niega Hivern a tener un restaurante con los menús a la mitad de precio que en Francia pero con camareros trabajando 60 horas por el salario mínimo. No hace mucho los hosteleros de EEUU fueron a ver a Joe Biden y le expresaron su temor porque faltan profesionales en el gremio. El presidente les dijo: “pay them more”. Pagadles más.
Diverxo sube la apuesta y el precio
Dabiz Muñoz, el único cocinero triestrellado de la capital, estimadísimo por la crítica, provocador y con ansias de comerse el mundo, y hace bien, desató la polémica del año al anunciar que subía el precio de su menú degustación un 46%: de 250 a 360 euros. Si quieren maridaje de vinos, súmenle 150 euros por cabeza. Es el menú más caro de España. Elegido además mejor cocinero del mundo en The Best Chef Awards, Muñoz sostiene que solo así puede tener un negocio sostenible. En cualquier caso, sigue por debajo de la inmensa mayoría de los tres estrellas de Francia. Otros chefs han advertido que a la búsqueda de mejores condiciones laborales para sus empleados y por la subida de las materias primas van a seguir caminos similares. La polémica es algo estulta. El mercado del lujo siempre ha existido. Puede que en efecto haya alguna derivada relacionada con la sensibilidad por los momentos que vivimos, pero nadie se echa las manos a la cabeza por lo que cuestan determinados bolsos y relojes. Tienen su publico. Quien no iba a Diverxo con el menú a 250 obviamente no va a ir cuando cuesta 360. Pero los que lo hacían no dejarán de ir por esa subida. De hecho, abrió reservas para el mes de enero el 1 de diciembre y las agotó en 20 minutos.
Ayuso, santa patrona de los bares
La revista europea Político ha incluido a Isabel Díaz Ayuso, presidenta de Madrid, en su lista de las 28 personas más influyentes de Europa. Sus méritos: su “insistencia” por mantener abiertos los bares y restaurantes de la comunidad durante la pandemia. Político dice que Ayuso es algo así como “una heroína” para los pequeños y medianos empresarios. Queda enmarcada en el ranking de disruptores.
El mercado food line se dispara
El sector de la comida a domicilio va a alcanzar durante 2021 la cifra de negocio de 1.079 millones de euros, con un incremento de la demanda del 345%. Son datos del Gastrómetro de Just Eat. El sector espera alcanzar una facturación de 1.590 millones en 2025. El 75% de los pedidos se hicieron a través del móvil, el resto desde un ordenador. Dos datos más interesantes: los cocineros con estrella Michelin han empezado a abonarse a este sistema y las peticiones de comida vegana y vegetariana, que han crecido un 80% y un 50% respectivamente en las demandas del cliente. San Valentín, Año nuevo y Halloween son las fechas en las que hay más peticiones. Y los motivos son dos: la gente no tiene ganas de cocinar y porque quieren darse un capricho,
El vino del Gobi (ya viene)
Hasta hace 20 años, la zona que está entre las montañas Helan y el río Amarillo, en el desierto del Gobi, fronteriza con la Mongolia interior, eran una zona árida, hostil y aparentemente inhábil para la viticultura. Hoy se conoce como “la Burdeos china”. El partido comunista decidió plantar cepas de vino en la zona para luchar contra la desertificación y la pobreza. La zona está a 1.000 metros de altitud, tiene unas 3.000 horas de sol al año y 220 mm de lluvia anuales. El suelo es rico en minerales. En Ningxia, que es el sitio de referencia, hay 33.000 hectáreas de viñedo y 211 bodegas que producen 130 millones de botellas de vino al año. Todo es excesivo en China. El Ministerio de Agricultura y asuntos rurales ha anunciado la creación de una zona piloto integral para el desarrollo de la uva y el vino: 502 km cuadrados de viñas. La idea es llegar en 5 años a producir 300 millones de botellas generando ingresos por 13.200 millones de euros. Por supuesto, han aprendido el modelo y las técnicas francesas para trabajar con la vid y en bodega.
El hombre y el oso, cuanto más feo…más barato
El propietario del Bar Avenida 55 de Logroño, Alberto Álvarez, decidió este año aplicar un descuento de 10 céntimos a los clientes que se consideraran feos. Dice que viendo que la gente guapa iba a los sitios cool, colocó una pizarra en la puerta de su bar con este reclamo: “Se admiten clientes feos. Aforo limitado”. Las cosas de las redes: se viralizó el mensaje en España y Latam, empezaron a llegar clientes de todos lados y terminaron celebrando el Día del feo, con 400 inscritos. El hombre, que se queja de las mascarillas porque dificultan la identificación de los feos de manual, también cobra un suplemento de 20 céntimos por artes adivinatorias e incrementa la factura en 10 céntimos si pide la tortilla sin cebolla. Si adivina cómo se quiere tomar el café el cliente le mete ese recargo. Gente lista.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Muy interesante el mini repaso gastronómico de diferentes noticias de ese mundo que dominas y conoces cada vez mejor.
Feliz Navidad y cuídate mucho querido Antonio. Un fuerte abrazo
Me encanta. Gracias Antonio. Y, feliz Navidad.
Feliz navidad genio!!abrazos
Feliz Navidad y buenas migas querido Antonio
Querido Antonio, magnifico e interesante repaso de los detalles relevantes del 2021 en el sector gastronómico.; ¡sin desperdicios! Feliz Navidad y te mando un fuerte abrazo desde la República Dominicana.
Feliz Navidad, Antonio!
Magnífico resumen! Muchas gracias
Gracias por el recorrido infornativo., excelente como siempre.
Celebraremos la capitalidad gastronómica de Sanlucar como se merece.
Feliz Año 2022, Antonio!!
Begoña
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