Crónica negra de un hongo negro sobre parmentier de dinero negro
Notable investigación de Ryan Jacobs sobre la estafa, la manipulación y la violencia en el mundo de la trufa, el hongo más cotizado del universo
i usted cree que la trufa viene del Piamonte como los niños de París debe ir despabilando. La tuber malanosporum, ese hongo feo, negro, de sutil aroma a almizcle y umbría, es el oscuro objeto del deseo de gente que ha convertido su obtención en un thriller gastronómico. Ladrones de toda laya, estafadores bien entrenados, forajidos que roban los mejores perros truferos, propietarios de robledales que patrullan de noche rifle en mano, empresas que ofrecen derivados de la trufa que no son más que pócimas de química sintética. Y la mafia. También, la mafia. Incluso algún furtivo asesinado a tiros figura entre las grandes obras de este mundillo. Trufas blancas de Alba que vienen de Rumanía, trufas negras de Asti procedentes de Marruecos. Trufas chinas camufladas entre lotes facturados en Italia:«es como cortar la cocaína», dicen los investigadores. Y mucho dinero negro-negrísimo, tan negro como el hongo de marras. Crónica negra pura sobre el ingrediente fetiche de los mejores cocineros del mundo, de los más ricos del orbe y de gastrónomos y coleccionistas de experiencias impagables. Entre ellos, presidentes de EEUU, actores de Hollywood o celebridades del fútbol y el bel canto. Oprah Winfrey, Celine Dion, Madonna, como antaño Rita Hayworth y Churchill. En el mercado trufero no hay límites para conseguir una trufa. Tampoco los hay para la manipulación y el engaño.
Tras leer El mundo oculto de la Trufa (Planeta Gastro), de Ryan Jacobs, jefe de investigación de The Pacific Standard, un periódico digital radicado en Santa Bárbara (California), cualquier persona sensata se preguntará si alguna vez ha probado realmente una trufa auténtica. Tal es el cúmulo de falsificaciones, estafas e irregularidades que oculta un mundo que mueve 300 millones de euros al año, según las estimaciones que maneja el autor, aunque el volumen real es prácticamente imposible de establecer. Solo en el mercado de trufas de Richerenches, la capital de la trufa, en la Provenza, cada sábado cambian de manos 300.000 euros entre veinte intermediarios, en un trasiego clandestino de hongos que van del maletero de un coche a una bolsa de plástico. La hacienda francesa ni se entera.
El libro relata, con precisión y fuentes acreditadas, el trabajo del periodista durante periodos de varios años en Francia e Italia. Combina un tono exclusivamente descriptivo y analítico basándose en los hechos, con licencias literarias, y recursos del nuevo periodismo apelando a las emociones, el sobresalto y el misterio que flota en las alcantarillas del mercado de trufas. Podría ser perfectamente la crónica de un robo de joyas en Tiffany o de un asalto al Orient Express mientras nieva en Budapest. En realidad, podrían dedicarse investigaciones similares a la falsificación del aceite de Oliva (una emulsión de girasol barato con clorofila, caroteno y tinte alimenticio), la mozarella de búfala, el jamón de Parma o el champán. La Camorra y la Ndrangheta andan por ahí, sostiene la Interpol, trabajando un mercado fraudulento que mueve al año 27.000 millones de dólares. Le llaman la agromafia.
Pero la trufa es otra cosa. Es un mito. La auténtica emana sabores y aromas únicos. Explota en el paladar proporcionando momentos irrepetibles, por los que se pagan hasta seis mil euros el kilo. Es un mundo emigmático. Su proceso de reproducción, sobre el que sigue habiendo más preguntas que respuestas, es un capricho biológico. Unas esporas transportadas por los animales que generan unos filamentos que tratan de conectar con las raíces de un roble, a los que se les podan ciertas ramas en determinado momento del año para que el sol llegue a la tierra y permita su nacimiento. Antes, el agua de lluvia habrá debido filtrarse y ha tenido que conectar con las células de los hongos, que detienen su desarrollo con las temperaturas altas. El hongo puede tardar hasta cuarenta años en nacer, si es que llega a conectar con la raíz adecuada y, por lo tanto, si es que nace. Bajo tierra deberá ser encontrado por los cazadores -así se denomina a los truferos- que tiran de memoria y experiencia familiar para saber los lugares clave donde hurgarán sus lagotto Romagnolo, el preferido de los perros truferos, mejor que los cochinos, porque los cochinos tienden a comérselas. Nada que reprocharles. Los truferos ocultan sus mapas como los buscadores de oro protegen las vetas. Cuando se han alineado las constelaciones, aún falta que el perro haga su trabajo. El libro sitúa al perro trufero, un animal entrenado y dotado de un instinto especial, como una de las víctimas comunes de este submundo. La prensa regional de las zonas truferas informan de cientos de envenenamientos cada año: albóndigas con estricnina, golosinas con esquirlas de cristal, rigatonis con cianuro o pozas de agua con líquido anticongelante para destrozarle los riñones al animal. El robo de estos lagottos también es frecuente. En los Abruzos existe una red de traficantes de perros que llega a actuar por encargo, vendiendo a los animales en otras zonas del país. Estas acciones criminales logran sacar a competidores del mercado hasta que logran adiestrar a otros ejemplares, además de ocasionar un daño emocional terrible a sus propietarios.
La calidad de la trufa vendrá determinada por las horas de sol, la lluvia, la humedad, la profundidad y su valor dependerá de su tamaño, de que no esté agrietada y de otros imponderables. Tanta arbitrariedad biológica concluye elevando al cielo a unos simples raviolis o sublimando la tarta de trufa, cebolla y tocino ahumado de Robuchon. Todo lo que afecta al nacimiento del hongo ocurre bajo tierra, y todo lo que rodea su extracción, venta y distribución también es un juego subterráneo. Obviamente, parece más fácil robarlas de los almacenes truferos, como hacen bandas organizadas con material de alta precisión, o recurrir a la estafa con trufas del Tíbet, Libia o Túnez.
La mayoría de la trufa negra procede de plantaciones de robledales en fincas particulares. La excelsa blanca De Alba, no. La tuber magnatum pico solo nace silvestre. Obviamente, no todo el mercado de trufa en los países productores está bajo sospecha. Pero el libro se centra en las zonas oscuras, que en cualquier caso superan en mucho lo que cualquier profano puede intuir.
Todo es especial en este mundo de la trufa, ese capricho micótico que convierte a los hombres en huraños y paranoicos por sentirse espiados y a otros directamente en criminales. Un universo donde operan brigadas policiales truferas y se habilitan en las gendarmerías líneas telefónicas especiales para que el servicio de vigilancia de arboledas truferas reciban las denuncias. Un mercado donde buena parte de la venta se hace bajo mano en la trastienda de un tascón o en algún callejón en sombra. Un entorno en el que, al fin, muchos delitos operan bajo una omertá trufera propia de otros ilícitos.
Este libro, apasionante, certero e imprescindible para aproximarse «al caos y la manipulación del mercado del hongo más caro del mundo», se lee como una novela de terror y, a la vez como una investigación rigurosa. Nace de la curiosidad, esa aliada del periodismo. Y viene a demostrar que es imposible que la hamburguesa de una cadena global con mayonesa trufada contenga algo parecido a la trufa, ni las patatas fritas de paquete y menos aún algunas pizzas industriales. Contendrán aceitunas, huesos hervidos y espinazo con un 1% de esencia del producto original, en el mejor de los casos; o un reactivo llamado metillitio en el peor. Por no hablar de esa peste llamada aceite de trufa.
Pero Ryan Jacobs también deja indemne el mito, el invencible poder seductor de la trufa. Y nos ayuda a comprender el ideal de una vida entre perros inteligentes, el milagro de la biología y la eterna paz del hombre en la soledad de un bosque.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Magnifico post. Interesantísimo. Digno guion para una película de suspense.
Gracias Joaquín. Abrazo fuerte
Muy interesante!!!
Pero vaya decepción, toda este tiempo creyendo que tomaba algo de trufa
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